Ideler pully noise
I got an ideler pully makeing a squeeking noise in the damp weather when I first start the car up. After about 15 minutes or so it goes away. There is no play in the bearing or anything.
Is there something I can do to quiet it besides replaceing it?
It is not hurting anything but is anoying when I first start it up untill it quiets down.
Is there something I can do to quiet it besides replaceing it?
It is not hurting anything but is anoying when I first start it up untill it quiets down.
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rub soap on the belt... Take a bar of soap and run it along the belt. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Sturmgewehr
rub soap on the belt...
It is not the belt causeing it. It is the pully itself.0 -
Change the belt.
barto0 -
GRD: those idler pulleys are provided with a Sealed Bearing - if it is squeaking, it is just a short time from seizing - Most Auto parts stores will have the whole assembly for R&R - I know you are Disabled, but I am pretty sure you can do the job...usually it is a matter of finding the socket or wrench that fits, pulling it till the belt is loose, unfitting the belt, then remove and replace the Idler assembly entire. Idler spring is fairly stout, though - stay clear of the wrench handle if you are pulling on it, as it can fly back with a lot of force. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by HandLoad
GRD: those idler pulleys are provided with a Sealed Bearing - if it is squeaking, it is just a short time from seizing - Most Auto parts stores will have the whole assembly for R&R - I know you are Disabled, but I am pretty sure you can do the job...usually it is a matter of finding the socket or wrench that fits, pulling it till the belt is loose, unfitting the belt, then remove and replace the Idler assembly entire. Idler spring is fairly stout, though - stay clear of the wrench handle if you are pulling on it, as it can fly back with a lot of force.
GRD I had a 93 f150 w/ 5.0L same thing happened, I dont remember their being a spring on the idler itself. but YES the tensioner pully will chuck a wrench clean out of the county if you where to let go. I'd say you can do it. Do it in steps, at your own pace and you can GRD.
Here is one for the f150 that I found at napa there are a few different ones this is a standard one. there are 5 or 6 to choose. depending on make maodel, weather or not there is AC or a 60 amp alternator ect.
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=TEM&PartNumber=209752&Description=Drivebelt+Idler+Pulley0 -
the one on my wifes dodge pickup started squeeking about 5 weeks ago,last weekend it locked up,easy to change,it was less than an hour and I installed a new belt while I was there 0 -
I guess I will replace it.
I can do the work on it with no problem, I was just thinking about the money it would cost.
No real big deal though.0 -
I would say that the bearings are going dry. By that I mean that they no longer have the proper amount of lube sealed within them.
Had a friend whom Pontiac Alero had the idler pulley seize up and destroyed the belt. It was easy to change the pulley. But the top front engine mount had to be removed and the engine jacked up a little in order to remove and install the new belt on her car.
At times you can quiet the bearings for awhile with something like PB Blaster. But it is not a fix.
They are rather easy to change if you can catch them in time before they seize and destroy the belt it is better.0 -
...Just replace it Kevin. If you can find one made in the Philipines, it will be cheaper...[:D][8D]
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It is wore out. Easy change in about 10 min. 0 -
Change it.They are not that much money. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
It is wore out. Easy change in about 10 min.
Like I said I was only thinking of the cost.
I am currently contemplating selling it after the first of the year and getting me a newer diesel pickup (F250 or F350).
I should have no problem getting $5000 out of my Bronco with the shape of it and only haveing about 24000 miles on the motor. That would be a nice down on a 2002 or newer pickup.0 -
quote:Originally posted by git_r_done
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
It is wore out. Easy change in about 10 min.
Like I said I was only thinking of the cost.
I am currently contemplating selling it after the first of the year and getting me a newer diesel pickup (F250 or F350).
I should have no problem getting $5000 out of my Bronco with the shape of it and only haveing about 24000 miles on the motor. That would be a nice down on a 2002 or newer pickup.
I am thinking of doing the same. Need a bigger rig to pull a larger hydroseeder. My 01 Ford F250 4x4 with 59K miles shouldn't be hard to sell. I need another 4x4 to keep from getting stuck pulling the hydroseeder.0 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
quote:Originally posted by git_r_done
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
It is wore out. Easy change in about 10 min.
Like I said I was only thinking of the cost.
I am currently contemplating selling it after the first of the year and getting me a newer diesel pickup (F250 or F350).
I should have no problem getting $5000 out of my Bronco with the shape of it and only haveing about 24000 miles on the motor. That would be a nice down on a 2002 or newer pickup.
I am thinking of doing the same. Need a bigger rig to pull a larger hydroseeder. My 01 Ford F250 4x4 with 59K miles shouldn't be hard to sell. I need another 4x4 to keep from getting stuck pulling the hydroseeder.
Anything I get will also be 4x4!
I never need it but I will not be caught without it![;)]0 -
those are cheap, remember left hand thread, tighten is loosen[:D] 0 -
The last one I changed, a year or so ago, went about 12 bucks....today, it probably wouldn't cost much more than 60 or 70 dollars.
I did make myself a tensioner wrench (by which you remove tension from the pulley) by simply welding a short bit of 3/8ths inch drive extension to the end of a square piece of steel, about ten inches long (much longer and you won't have room to operate). It's worked on everything I've tried it on so far.
Sahagan0 -
WD-40 [?][?][?] 0 -
Dont know what you're driving ,but mid 90s GMs are easy just check the bolt out some are left hand thread 0 -
quote:Originally posted by reddnek
Dont know what you're driving ,but mid 90s GMs are easy just check the bolt out some are left hand thread
I got a 94 Ford Bronco.
The pully is not bad to do. I was only thinking about putting money into a viechle that I may sell in a couple months.
I really do not know why I want to sell it as it is as clean of a Bronco as you will find and the new crate motor (2 years old) only has 24000 miles on it now. It is like new inside and out and will still provide many more years of dependable transportation.
Also for no more than I drive the fuel milage is not too bad (16 to 18 mpg) due to the K&N intake, Flowmaster exaust, and Mallory high output ignition on it.0 -
The old idler pully is telling you it tired. Do your self a favor and change it in your driveway not along side of the road after dark.
I understand you wanting to get a larger pickup. That would be very useful in hauling home them "big deer"
Take care0 -
If it is a belt, don't soap it...all that does is let it slip quietly. use something sticky...hairspray is an excellent choice......
If it is the tensioner, replace it, fer sure!0 -
git r done the idler for my caddy was $22 0 -
And this is the truck you were trying to pawn off on me? Just kidding.[;)] 0 -
quote:Originally posted by git_r_done
I got an ideler pully makeing a squeeking noise in the damp weather when I first start the car up. After about 15 minutes or so it goes away. There is no play in the bearing or anything.
Is there something I can do to quiet it besides replaceing it?
It is not hurting anything but is anoying when I first start it up untill it quiets down.0 -
Sorry, I'm in the learning stages, how to use this. I Have a Ford F250 and I am trying to replace the belt tensioner, but can't get the torkz T 50 driver in past the pulley. There is no room to get the driver in there. Does anyone know what I can do? 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Wilma
Sorry, I'm in the learning stages, how to use this. I Have a Ford F250 and I am trying to replace the belt tensioner, but can't get the torkz T 50 driver in past the pulley. There is no room to get the driver in there. Does anyone know what I can do?
can you take the pulley off the tensioner first?0 -
Well, the bolt on the pulley doesn't move although the pulley does. Do you think the threads go the other way? 0 -
Well, I got the pulley off. After pulling on it one way, I tried the other way using a pipe extension and it came off!!! ( threads are going in the other direction) I put the new belt tensioner on and the thumping sound went away. Dang I'm so happy!! 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Wilma
Well, I got the pulley off. After pulling on it one way, I tried the other way using a pipe extension and it came off!!! ( threads are going in the other direction) I put the new belt tensioner on and the thumping sound went away. Dang I'm so happy!!
a pipe exstention!!!! [:0] dang some monkey must have really wrenched on that thing. [:D]0 -
Don't mess around with idler pulleys. They are cheap and easy to replace. When Travis bought his truck, we replaced the serpentine belt because it was worn. That was when I noticed that the idler pulley bearing had seized. Previous owner had backed out the bolt so that the entire assembly would rotate on the bolt. I told Travis to go right now and get a new pulley and we would put it on. He didn't. Said it would be OK, and he took off in it to go back to Fort Riley. He got somewhere in Oklahoma when the bolt backed completely out and when the pulley fell off, the belt was also thrown off. Of course, it was late at night when this happened and nothing was open. So, he had to spend a night in a motel, and fix the truck the next morning. Made him late reporting for duty and he got a butt-chewing from his Sgt. 0
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