Skip to main content
Help Center Community Shop

Advice on Repair. (Dog Trolley) Fixed/Finally -

Comments

32 comments

  • ChrisStreett
    Ken, no idea if this is even feasible, but would the available plasticized/rubberized coating available for tool handles (pliers, etc) help at all? It's at the end of the run and may not get the wear and tear of the main cable. Just a thought.
    0
  • KenK/84Bravo
    Thanks for the idea Chris. I've been wracking my brain trying to come up with options. I am at a loss as to what I can recover the cable with.

    That far end of the cable actually takes the most abuse. He tears off down the entire length of cable, hearing/seeing something at the far end. Woods on the left edge. Deer, rabbits, etc. etc. That far end of 3-4' of cable brings him to a halt, and he strains off to the sides.

    Heavy steel springs on each end, with two tennis balls strung on the line at each end to absorb energy.



    Just had a thought. Maybe I can go to a pet store and buy some Air line large enough to re-sleeve that 4' of cable. (Eureka!)

    Wiley Coyote. (Super Genious.) :D
    0
  • SCOUT5
    My first thought was the previously mentioned tool handle rubber my second was shrink tubing, the kind that heat shrinks. If you can take the hardware off of the end of the cable and had the right density shrink tubing that may do it.
    0
  • NeoBlackdog
    Can you get the pulley apart? If so then just add some shim material on either side of the pulley so the cable can't get in there.
    Another option would be to get a smaller pulley or one built to tighter tolerances.
    0
  • bambihunter
    NeoBlackdog wrote:
    Can you get the pulley apart? If so then just add some shim material on either side of the pulley so the cable can't get in there.
    Another option would be to get a smaller pulley or one built to tighter tolerances.

    This is what I was going to post... Odd comparison, but I had a spinning reel that would do that with braid since braid doesn't stay round. A thin nylon washer was all it took. I made it off of a nylon PCB cover.
    0
  • KenK/84Bravo
    I've also thought of shimming the pulley. (Thanks guys.) I may look in to some nylon washers I have here. I'd prefer to re-seath the cable to protect it from rust.

    Maybe I can just find a pulley with tighter tolerances. This is a pretty high end one, currently on there. Comes apart via a pull pin through the shaft.

    Thanks for the ideas.
    0
  • diver-rig
    What about crimping something on the cable as a trolley stop? So it can?t go that last 4?? Kind of like a snare stop?
    0
  • KenK/84Bravo
    diver-rig wrote:
    What about crimping something on the cable as a trolley stop? So it can?t go that last 4?? Kind of like a snare stop?


    Yeah. That would be an easy solution. A cable stop/clamp with tennis balls on the end would work. I hate to deny him his full roam. That far end is also his #2 spot. ;)
    0
  • Ricci Wright
    You can find logging chain and anvils on craigslist.
    3
  • KenK/84Bravo
    I am thinking, (after having the thought) that re-sleeving the cable with pet store/fish air line of the proper diameter, will be the solution. :D
    0
  • KenK/84Bravo
    Ricci Wright wrote:
    You can find logging chain and anvils on craigslist.



    I pretty much knew you would be along eventually, with a helpfull tidbit of knowledge.

    I am still waiting. :o




    I usually introduce new people to Buddy, by stating "He's Okay. He's Okay." He calms right down.

    I might have to make an exception for you. :o :shock: :? :lol:
    0
  • Hessian
    Amazon has heat shrink tubing, various diameters, and lengths. No idea how durable it will be, not terribly expensive and is likely to be easy to work with.
    0
  • iceracerx
    TURN

    THE

    CABLE

    AROUND
    3
  • iceracerx
    100 feet - Heavy duty - for dogs over 50 lbs. Pulley designed/spec-ed for the job

    $26.05 + shipping (unless you buy two)

    https://www.chewy.com/four-paws-heavy-weight-overhead/dp/52624
    0
  • mmppres
    How about taking the cable down to a cable shop an having the coat it an put in a stop. We used to due that on our winches for the flat beds. It would keep the newBs from running the cable till it bound to tight. Just a thought
    0
  • montanajoe
    • Community moderator
    Auto parts stores have plastic wiring conduit. Some is in tube form with a single split down the length,or some is cut in a spiral that you spiral wrap around your wires. There are a couple different sizes.

    Or split a length of rubber hose
    0
  • montanajoe
    • Community moderator
    Auto parts stores have plastic wiring conduit. Some is in tube form with a single split down the length,or some is cut in a spiral that you spiral wrap around your wires. There are a couple different sizes.
    0
  • bustedknee
    I was listening to a fellow play music on a small stage in the mountains of SW Virginia.

    He was strumming his guitar, singing a song and patting his foot.

    The stage was a temporary affair made from thin plywood and insufficiently joisted.

    When he patted his foot the rippling in the floor caused his music-holder stand to dance and rattle.

    Unable to tolerate the noise, he stopped his show and asked if someone... anyone could fix "that thing". "Maybe some foam rubber padding?" he suggested, looking offstage.

    Silence. :shock:

    Being a big-mouth extrovert I spoke up. "Take off yer shoe." :idea:

    After considering my smart-ass remark for a few seconds a smile spread across his face. "I'm an engineer." he said, "however, the easiest and best solution did not come to mind. WHO ARE YOU?"

    Proudly, I replied, "I'm a Technician.""



    So this answer is coming from a technician.
    Skin off all the nylon and use the bare cable. Buddy won't care. You may have to adjust, shim or replace the pulley.

    Now get out your guitar and play us something.
    0
  • Horse Plains Drifter
    bustedknee wrote:
    .
    Skin off all the nylon and use the bare cable.
    Yep, especially if it's truly stainless. Take a razor knife, and skin that plastic crap off!
    0
  • pulsarnc
    I agree .... skin the cable .Stainless will not rust . And should last thru two buddy?s lifetimes
    0
  • montanajoe
    • Community moderator
    KenK/84Bravo wrote:
    ) Buddy's pulley will allow the slimmer cable, or the smaller pieces of Nylon cover to enter the sides of the Pulley wheel against the housing. Jamming the pulley.


    if he skins the cable,it will worsen this issue he pointed out.
    0
  • pulsarnc
    I had a similar setup . Instead of a pulley I used a piece of 1/2 pipe as sliding element . If it wore out no big deal . Cable was free as I worked as an installer of ag equipment and bought the cable in rolls of 1500 feet .
    0
  • montanajoe
    • Community moderator
    montanajoe wrote:
    Auto parts stores have plastic wiring conduit. Some is in tube form with a single split down the length,or some is cut in a spiral that you spiral wrap around your wires. There are a couple different sizes.

    Or split a length of rubber hose

    +1
    0
  • montanajoe
    • Community moderator
    Have you got 'er fixed?? What'd you do??
    0
  • Horse Plains Drifter
    montanajoe wrote:
    KenK/84Bravo wrote:
    ) Buddy's pulley will allow the slimmer cable, or the smaller pieces of Nylon cover to enter the sides of the Pulley wheel against the housing. Jamming the pulley.


    if he skins the cable,it will worsen this issue he pointed out.
    Then I would get a different block that had less clearance between the sheave, and the cheek of the block.

    Something like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/snatch-block-61673.html
    0
  • montanajoe
    • Community moderator
    montanajoe wrote:
    KenK/84Bravo wrote:
    ) Buddy's pulley will allow the slimmer cable, or the smaller pieces of Nylon cover to enter the sides of the Pulley wheel against the housing. Jamming the pulley.


    if he skins the cable,it will worsen this issue he pointed out.
    Then I would get a different block that had less clearance between the sheave, and the cheek of the block.

    Something like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/snatch-block-61673.html
    Yes,agree.
    0
  • KenK/84Bravo
    montanajoe wrote:
    Have you got 'er fixed?? What'd you do??

    Not in immediate need of repair Brother.

    An annoyance, when he gets locked on to the cable at the far end. Nothing more.

    If I look out, and he is sitting at the far end. That is my clue.

    I still believe that re-sheathing it with pet store air line tubing, is the way to go. Unfortunately, none any where near me.
    0
  • hillbille
    I think icerax had the answer, just turn the cable end for end, then if he gets stuck it will he at the house, not out in the yard..........
    3
  • KenK/84Bravo
    hillbille wrote:
    I think icerax had the answer, just turn the cable end for end, then if he gets stuck it will he at the house, not out in the yard..........


    That was indeed good advice. :)
    0
  • KenK/84Bravo

    Pulley finally got stuck so bad, I could not free it. (It was about 18° Outside with a few inches of snow.) I finally had to get an expanding jaw set of plyers to free it. It broke about 1/3 of the pulley wheel off, in the process. (Aluminum?) Pulley wheel was maybe 1 1/2" in diameter.

    Went to the closest hardware store that I frequent, that is not a Rip Off. (Big John's Closeouts.) Purchased a much larger pulley (3" brass wheel.) Much tighter tolerances side to side. Changed everything out. It has performed flawlessly (yesterday and today.) even on the unsleeved portions of the cable. Much Mo Betta.

    I appreciate all the input and insight. Buddy can run end to end again without getting stuck. 😁

    0

Please sign in to leave a comment.

Recent Activity