main seal...mechanics
need to replace a main seal [rear] in my truck, a friend of mine just did this to his truck but it backed out, which i have never heard of. any suggustions? can u locktite them in? thanks in advance
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what kinda truck? 0 -
ford f 150,300 6cyl 0 -
Tomahawk,
What kind of truck is it?
If your freind's seal backed out he likely did not get it in straight to start with wich can be easy to do if you are laying on the ground you have be sure that it starts in staight and you kep it straight all the way in
but as far as loctite goes if you do this you will regret it later!0 -
If it's a minor leak make sure the oil pan is tight, then add a teaspoon of brake fluid into the engine oil.
It'll swell up rubber.0 -
Blue locktight is fine. Your friend may have too much end play. Meaning the crankshaft slides forward and backward. Not good, doesn't matter how he replaced the seal or what locktight he used. Bearings would be needed to solve this. Money, money, money. 0 -
You can put red silicone gasket sealer around it to help hold it in, which should be done anyhow, to help minimize the chance of leaking.
If it is 4 wheel drive, it is easier to pull the engine rather than the transmission and transfer case. BTDT.
Thanks---Peabo0 -
obiwan how long does this take to work
ginmaster,thanks , i think when i change it i,ll blue locktite it0 -
Make sure you dont have pressure build-up with blowby in the cylinders sometimes the crankcase vent will clog up. This will cause a leak when engine running and if bad enough will BLOW OUT the rear seal. 0 -
better than trying to get locktite to hold the seal, have used (think it is permatex brand) "form-a-gasket"
thick brown paste in either a tube or a can for working shops.
have used this since grade school, and my pop for probably 20 yrs longer in his garage
spread a thin layer on the surface, place the seal firmly and allow to set for about 5-10 min till it firms up.
have never had a back-out useing this, and in desterate cases have repaired torn gaskets and filled where a peice was missing with good results0 -
Tom
Pine tree sap oil, brake fluid nor Cat-Whizz Stop Leak will not fix your problem. For all they do is swell the seals which may or may not stop the leak for a short time. But every rubber seal in the engine will be destroyed by becoming soft then brittle. Once the swollen seals start leaking again you will have a serious leak on your hands. Can you say Oil Pump replacement due to the pick up tube or block seal being damaged allowing the pump to suck air?
300 Ford six cylinders are the simplest engines to work on that have ever existed besides VW's. Especially if you are dealing with a 2 wheel drive automatic.
Start by doing what was suggested above.
Make sure that the PCV valve is working ok. A simple test for this is with the engine running. Pull the PCV valve from the valve cover and make sure that you have vacuum on it. If not remove the hose and check where the vacuum hose connects to the intake or air cleaner. They are known to clog with oil and gunk where they enter the intake. It can be cleaned with a piece of wire. Check to make sure that the hose is clear also. If all is well with the PCV valve, hose and connections move on to the next step.
The rear main rod cap on the 6's needs to be installed correctly. A small bead of silicone should be placed on each mating surface and nearest to the side of the bearing cap as possible where it meets the engine block and in such a manner that it does not interfere with the oil pan gasket. So here, more is not better nor is smearing silicone all over the parts a good idea.
When replacing the seal. Silicone should not be needed. But if you think that you need it. A very small amount of Black RTV sealant on the outside lip where it seals against the main bearing cap when installed will be OK. Again.. More is not better here. You do not need a 1/4" bead of silicone to seal a .010 gap.
Lock-Tite?? I have never saw where Lock-Tite can be used on crank shaft seals of a Ford 300 Six? For they are no bolts or screws that hold them in place.
If you have a two wheel drive and decide to change the oil pan gasket while you have the tranny out and the fly wheel off. Now would be a good time for it. They are about four different types of gaskets that will work. Made of both cork and rubber. The best ones are the one piece rubber gaskets. Clean oil free parts and a little Indian Head gasket retainer and they are easy to install. Just do not over tighten the bolts. For the gaskets are easy to damage if overtightened.0 -
quote:Originally posted by LesWVa
Tom
Pine tree sap oil, brake fluid nor Cat-Whizz Stop Leak will not fix your problem. For all they do is swell the seals which may or may not stop the leak for a short time. But every rubber seal in the engine will be destroyed by becoming soft then brittle. Once the swollen seals start leaking again you will have a serious leak on your hands. Can you say Oil Pump replacement due to the pick up tube or block seal being damaged allowing the pump to suck air?
300 Ford six cylinders are the simplest engines to work on that have ever existed besides VW's. Especially if you are dealing with a 2 wheel drive automatic.
Start by doing what was suggested above.
Make sure that the PCV valve is working ok. A simple test for this is with the engine running. Pull the PCV valve from the valve cover and make sure that you have vacuum on it. If not remove the hose and check where the vacuum hose connects to the intake or air cleaner. They are known to clog with oil and gunk where they enter the intake. It can be cleaned with a piece of wire. Check to make sure that the hose is clear also. If all is well with the PCV valve, hose and connections move on to the next step.
The rear main rod cap on the 6's needs to be installed correctly. A small bead of silicone should be placed on each mating surface and nearest to the side of the bearing cap as possible where it meets the engine block and in such a manner that it does not interfere with the oil pan gasket. So here, more is not better nor is smearing silicone all over the parts a good idea.
When replacing the seal. Silicone should not be needed. But if you think that you need it. A very small amount of Black RTV sealant on the outside lip where it seals against the main bearing cap when installed will be OK. Again.. More is not better here. You do not need a 1/4" bead of silicone to seal a .010 gap.
Lock-Tite?? I have never saw where Lock-Tite can be used on crank shaft seals of a Ford 300 Six? For they are no bolts or screws that hold them in place.
If you have a two wheel drive and decide to change the oil pan gasket while you have the tranny out and the fly wheel off. Now would be a good time for it. They are about four different types of gaskets that will work. Made of both cork and rubber. The best ones are the one piece rubber gaskets. Clean oil free parts and a little Indian Head gasket retainer and they are easy to install. Just do not over tighten the bolts. For the gaskets are easy to damage if overtightened.
Possible, but not probable. Generally when the 300 6 has a pvc problem, it spits the actual valve out of the valve cover...
'thrust' problem again not likely. they can move upwards of 1/8 inch with no problem......
Most likely faulty installtion of the replacement.....(wasn't driven in straight, or the metal part of the seal was concaved during the installation process)
Try this: put in a new seal. USE a GOOD ONE!!!!! (I prefer fel-Pro). get something that fits the outer diameter of the seal. (cut a hole in a 6x6 1" OAK board in the diameter of the actual crankshaft....I think 3 and an 1/8th of an inch will do the trick, but it's been a while as I use a body hammer) and use a small hammer to 'finesse' the seal into starting..... do not hit the 'big area of the seal, as it distends the metal, thus warping the lip.
Now for the racer's trick.......after you land the seal flush, take a pinprick punch and every 1/4 of an inch, close to the spot where the seal meets the aluminum, put a whack on the punch. It will expand the metal just enough that it will grab the seal by making a little bump in the opening. Trust me, I've had to do it about 100 times...(also nice trick for mopars, especially neons)
Do NOT use Brake fluid, unless you're gonna dump it on someone else, as mentioned above. all it does is swell the seal, as well as the valvve seals, and youve got the same problem times 10 in about 2 months.....
Also as les has suggested, it would be a good time to replace the pan gasket. here's the 'easy' trick on it:
Use the fel-pro Kit. it comes with plastic plugs that actually hold the gasket, and the pan.....
1)take the lh motormount loose.
2)index the distibutor
3) Pull the distributor. (Hopefully, the oil pump drive comes out with it). take the top of the fanshroud off, or at least loosen it from the truck.
4) drop the pan onto the crossmember. it won't just slide out. lift the engine with an engine crane. for safety, put a 4x4 between the mountt and the frame side mount.
5)pull the oil pump. (you'll have to pull the main bearing cap bolt for the pick-up bracket, so have a torque wrench ready for re assembly) let the pump drop into the pan. You should be able to remove the pan, no problem. (even with the flywheel in place)
when you re assemble, put the pump back on, torque it correctly, re-torque BOTH bolts on the main cap that the pickup bracket goes on. put the pump drive in the distrbutor, drop it in. re time the engine when you get it back together. Remember to pull the 'timing plug, ( alittle fuse lookin deal in the harness near the distibutor.) 7 degrees BTC works nicely on efi 300's.
if you have problems, call me and I'll talk ya through it 814-598-1750.0 -
thanks to all, rather than taking a chance, i think i,ll just do it right and change it rather than adding brake fluid, its leaking a couple quarts a week, thanks for the pointers[;)] 0 -
rcrxmike_2,
It seems like pulling the engine to do the pan gasket is just as easy to your "easy" method.0 -
I have found on ford engines that if you don't use parts from the ford dealer you will have trouble. 0 -
I service my '93 F150 with nothing but Napa parts and I've never had any trouble. Two winters ago, I resealed my engine using Napa's economy seal kit and it's still holding. 0 -
my buddy used a seal that was made in mexico, i spent 1.90 more and bought a motorcraft for the truck, i only want to do it once. you guys talk of tapping it in with a hammer, i was thinking of using a big socket that size then tapping it. my buddy pushed his in with his thumbs? i watched and told him then it didnt fit tight enough i didn,t figure. all these should be tapped in, right or wrong[?] 0 -
LesWVa is absolutely correct.
Would question why/when it started leaking. Did it start doing this on its own or after someone did some work on it? Excessive crankcase pressure would be the first and easist thing to check for. Did it develope excessive crankshaft end play? If so and enough to cause a rear main to leak, youre beyond new seals, gaskets, etc and will need to address the root cause of failure before anything else.0 -
You cannot push the proper seal in with your thumbs. The are a much tighter fit than that. Also, there is a product called anorobic sealer that is made to go on the outside edge (metal part) of the seal. We are talking about a one piece seal here, are we not? The sealer looks like red locktite, but it is not the same. Might even come with some brands of seal. Then, the seal has to be driven in until the outside edge is flush with the main cap/block. Before you try to put it in, lightly coat the rubber lip with oil and make darn sure you do not tear it on the end of the crank as you install the seal. If you do this as described here you will have no more problems. Made my living for many years doing this. 0 -
I made a deal with a wrench bender in town, I won't work on cars and trucks as long as he don't run heavy equipment.
I would rather work a Saturday or two to pay for someone else to fix my truck. I know how but just don't want to.
Just my thought on it
Hope you had a Merry CHRISTmas0 -
my buddy is a mechanic and screwed up his own truck with a seal that came back out. think i'm gonna let him work on mine? besides if you turn your back he'll man a crane, just can't catch him. [;)] 0 -
been a long time since i have worked on a three hundred six so don't remember type of seal it used....one piece or two piece....one piece seals are press fit and should not be able to be pushed in with fingers...also don't remember if they have a wear sleeve on crank.... the new seal may have required a sleeve to be put on and did'nt get put on? 0 -
Cowdoc
The sleeve that you are talking about should or only needs to be used if the crank shaft itself has worn past a certain point or has been undercut (ground) x thousandths of an inch.
Tom
If you ever do a rebuild on a 300 six carberated engine or want to really improve the preformance of a good one. They only make two kinds of 300 six's. A good one or a bad one. Add an Offenhauser intake with a good 500 two, 650 four barrel square bore carb or better yet a Holley two barrel TBI system to one. That with a small amount of tuning and you can get a 300 six to out pull a stock 302 or 351W any day of the week. [^]0
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