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Help me fix my pistol!

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27 comments

  • catpealer111
    Don;t let my brother catch me saying this, but you might want to try brake cleaner. Spray it into the tight spots and it'll get out what you can't.
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    brake cleaner is good stuff, it evaporates quickly and leaves no residue, BUT will it mess with any of the bluing or anything? i know theres some pins and stuff in it to take it apart.....
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  • David Nunn
    DON'T get brake cleaner on any of the plastic parts. Remove grips first. They will melt.
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    ok, thats two people who say brake clean....
    anyone for a negative for brake clean?

    Actually i was thinking of just throwing it in my dishwasher, and then oiling it quick when its done...
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  • Captplaid
    OK how about carb cleaner then?
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  • moonshine
    take it apart

    pull the front of the trigger guard down by the front portion
    lift the slide slightly and slide it forward remember it is under
    spring pressure,reverse every thing to put it back together
    if this dosnt work send it to me I could use another one.
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    quote:Originally posted by moonshine
    take it apart

    pull the front of the trigger guard down by the front portion
    lift the slide slightly and slide it forward remember it is under
    spring pressure,reverse every thing to put it back together
    if this dosnt work send it to me I could use another one.


    I can field strip it, but i think the extractor is wore out. how do i replace the extractor? i bought a new extracter off egay today, but i have no idea how to take it apart beyond field stripping.
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  • jabronij3
    gunscrubber safe for,how do I say this.......FIREARMS!
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  • Horse Plains Drifter
    Try a good cleaning before you buy any parts. The brake clean will work good, but heed nunn's caution about plastic.
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  • gunnut505
    Once you get the slide free by pulling down on the front of the trigger guard and pulling the slide all the way back, then raising the rear of the slide and sliding it off the front of the frame; turn the slide upside down and look at the extractor side: there is a small roll pin that serves as the pivot for the extractor. Using a roll pin punch of the correct diameter, tap the pin out the top of the slide without completely removing it; the extractor and spring will be trying to separate from the slide once the roll pin clears the extractor.
    DON'T lose the spring! It's a genuine Hillary to reinstall!
    Inspect the extractor you got at that other place for burrs or rough spots along the front of the claw, and gently sand them smooth; not looking to remove a lot of material or change the extractor claw angle here, just smoothing things up.
    Next, clean the spring and the hole it came out of, as well as the slot in the slide that carries them both.
    Clean (with a toothpick if you have to) the little lifty thing above the barrel and make sure that spring is working as well.
    These guns are great pocket pistols, but sometimes (through use, neglect or abuse) they get a little persnickety when dirty.
    I have several TP22s, and haven't had the extraction problems you're having, but then I CLEAN my guns from time to time, and I NEVER use brake cleaner on anything but my car.
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  • sarge_3ad
    quote:Originally posted by ibuiltmine-o1oo
    ok, thats two people who say brake clean....
    anyone for a negative for brake clean?

    Actually i was thinking of just throwing it in my dishwasher, and then oiling it quick when its done...


    I am one who says DON'T USE brake or carb cleaner. After being in the Army and working on weapons for over 13 years there, I can tell you that these 2 items are a favorite to GI's who have to clean their weapons to meet inspection before turning them back into the arms room. Yes, those cleaners clean very well, but if you don't know how to disassemble your pistol all the way down to relube then your pistols mechanism will rust and make it even harder to function. My favorite is Break-Free CLP. This is all I ever use, and I have been smithing for around 27 years now.

    For a schematics of your pistol go to: http://www.e-gunparts.com/

    I believe your feeding problem would be your magazine is worn out. Also it wouldn't hurt to replace your recoil spring as it could be weak and binding up just a bit to keep your slide from fully closing and locking like it is suppose to. This could cause your failure to fire and extract. Hope this helps. Sarge
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    quote:Originally posted by gunnut505
    Once you get the slide free by pulling down on the front of the trigger guard and pulling the slide all the way back, then raising the rear of the slide and sliding it off the front of the frame; turn the slide upside down and look at the extractor side: there is a small roll pin that serves as the pivot for the extractor. Using a roll pin punch of the correct diameter, tap the pin out the top of the slide without completely removing it; the extractor and spring will be trying to separate from the slide once the roll pin clears the extractor.
    DON'T lose the spring! It's a genuine Hillary to reinstall!
    Inspect the extractor you got at that other place for burrs or rough spots along the front of the claw, and gently sand them smooth; not looking to remove a lot of material or change the extractor claw angle here, just smoothing things up.
    Next, clean the spring and the hole it came out of, as well as the slot in the slide that carries them both.
    Clean (with a toothpick if you have to) the little lifty thing above the barrel and make sure that spring is working as well.
    These guns are great pocket pistols, but sometimes (through use, neglect or abuse) they get a little persnickety when dirty.
    I have several TP22s, and haven't had the extraction problems you're having, but then I CLEAN my guns from time to time, and I NEVER use brake cleaner on anything but my car.

    thanks man, i took that extractor out and cleaned it.. that jhole where the spring goes was almost clogged completely.... i had to pop the spring out with a toothpick! The extractor doesnt look as bad as i thought, now that i got it out and cleaned it.
    Oh, and i just got me a plastic bowl and set it in it, and poured hoppes powder solvent over it, then basted the whole thing with a medicine syrenge....seemed to work well. The guy i bought this from sold it to me because it wasnt working right, but now i know it is just tooooo damn dirty!
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    quote:Originally posted by sarge_3ad
    quote:Originally posted by ibuiltmine-o1oo
    ok, thats two people who say brake clean....
    anyone for a negative for brake clean?

    Actually i was thinking of just throwing it in my dishwasher, and then oiling it quick when its done...


    I am one who says DON'T USE brake or carb cleaner. After being in the Army and working on weapons for over 13 years there, I can tell you that these 2 items are a favorite to GI's who have to clean their weapons to meet inspection before turning them back into the arms room. Yes, those cleaners clean very well, but if you don't know how to disassemble your pistol all the way down to relube then your pistols mechanism will rust and make it even harder to function. My favorite is Break-Free CLP. This is all I ever use, and I have been smithing for around 27 years now.

    For a schematics of your pistol go to: http://www.e-gunparts.com/

    I believe your feeding problem would be your magazine is worn out. Also it wouldn't hurt to replace your recoil spring as it could be weak and binding up just a bit to keep your slide from fully closing and locking like it is suppose to. This could cause your failure to fire and extract. Hope this helps. Sarge


    thanks man! I think the clips are wore out too.... they feed 'funny' and i havent been around guns a whole lot, so now that you say the feed problem may be the clip ittself, i can see it, too!
    Thanks for the link withthe picture. When i got the gun, it ws taen apart in the box, so i wasnt sure i even had the recoil spring put in the right way! im going to order some new parts from that place like recoil spring...
    Thanks!
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    quote:Originally posted by sarge_3ad

    your recoil spring as it could be weak and binding up just a bit to keep your slide from fully closing and locking like it is suppose to.



    AHHH!! I see! Sometimes it would extract, and load, but it would stop just a quarter inch of closing complet and working perfect. Id just have to tap it a little and it would work.... i bet my problem is overall neglect from the previous owner!

    Heres the pictures i promised! THe bluing on this puppy is like brand new!

    iversjohnsontp223.jpg
    iversjohnsontp222.jpg
    iversjohnsontp221.jpg
    iversjohnsontp22.jpg
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  • spasmcreek
    one of my favorite pocket 22's for years....from looks of yours i bet major cleaning will solve problems...erma werke has same gun...also milled bottom of clip parallel to bottom of frame leaving about 1/4" of plastic.....still has two finger grip & slips in pocket easy... dusty country here so i spray with triflow teflon lube..wipe or blow off excess...dirt doesn't stick....enjoy
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    quote:Originally posted by spasmcreek
    one of my favorite pocket 22's for years....from looks of yours i bet major cleaning will solve problems...erma werke has same gun...also milled bottom of clip parallel to bottom of frame leaving about 1/4" of plastic.....still has two finger grip & slips in pocket easy... dusty country here so i spray with triflow teflon lube..wipe or blow off excess...dirt doesn't stick....enjoy


    Thanks!
    CAn someone tell me a little history of this pistol? Like can i find out when it was made?
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  • spasmcreek
    in 1977 iver johnson company facilities were moved from fitchbugh, ma. to middlesex, NJ. which has this name on side of TP22 mfg there....then in 1982 production was moved to jacksonville, AR under trade name iver johnsons arms, inc.... mfg in 22 & 25 cal blue, nickel? 1985-86 then reintroduced 1988-90?93
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    it says Jacksonville, A.R. serial number AE119296
    As nice as the bluing is on this gun ( not a scratch! ) Id say it was one ot the newest models.
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    Ok, People!
    Here is a video of it doing what it does... all be damned if the video isnt the best it has worked so far, but you can still get the idea!
    Id say you need a high speed connection to download this video, unless you have a couple days!

    http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ibuiltmine-o1oo/?action=view&current=MOV00001.flv
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  • 11b6r
    Besides cleaning well (and yeah, spray Gunscrubber is made for guns. not carbs or brakes) and cleaning the chamber (brush, Hoppes, scrub) many rimfires develop a burr st the rear of the chamber from dry firing. IF you have a small burr of dimple from firing pin striking the edge of the chamber, round will drag. If you have that- DO NOT REMOVE THE BURR. There is an easy technique to "iron" it back in place, using a nail set.
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    quote:Originally posted by 11b6r
    Besides cleaning well (and yeah, spray Gunscrubber is made for guns. not carbs or brakes) and cleaning the chamber (brush, Hoppes, scrub) many rimfires develop a burr st the rear of the chamber from dry firing. IF you have a small burr of dimple from firing pin striking the edge of the chamber, round will drag. If you have that- DO NOT REMOVE THE BURR. There is an easy technique to "iron" it back in place, using a nail set.

    Thats great advice! i will take it apart and look at it!
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    yep... definatly a little dent there in the top of the chamber!
    Now what do i do?!?!?
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  • wipala
    Before you go too crazy look closely at the spot where the fining pin hits the rim of the chamber. look for a burr. Sometimes when a rimfire is dryfired it will form a dent in the edge of the chamber causing m9isfires and extraction trouble.nevermind
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    how do i iron out that bur???
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  • mrseatle
    is it chambered for .22LR? or just .22short? Those LR rounds look like they would barely fit through the ejection port...
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  • 11b6r
    To fix a dry firing dent (firing pin strikes edge of chamber) CLEAR the WEAPON. Strip weapon to point you have access to rear of chamber. Take a Stanley nail set, insert into chamber area, LIGHTLY tap set with small hammer, rotate, repeat. This pushes or irons the dent back to the side. WITH THE NAIL SET IN PLACE in the chamber, take a flat tip punch, place on top of the dent, tap down lightly. You are pushing the metal back into place to support the rim of the cartridge, and getting rid of the burr that can drag on a cartridge case. Yes, Brownells sells a tool for this. But a nailset works. You can usually do this once or twice to a firearm.
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  • ibuiltmine-o1oo
    Thanks a lot man.. now if i understand you right, tap the stanley into it and keep it there, then take another tool and tap out the bur..right?
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