Refinishing my floors
I'm on vacation for the next week and a half. Tori and I are going to pull the carpet in the dining room and refinish the oak floors underneath. I have a pretty good understanding of the process. Anyone have any tricks or tips? I've heard to only use a belt sander with a fine grit and sand with the grain. There are places that rent the orbiting floor sanders for this specific purpose. Which method is the best?
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I do some work part-time work for a hardwood floor company.
We're called in to fix floors that the hmeowner thought he could refinish almost weekly.
Hire it done.
Or, if you must, at least rent the right equipment.0 -
A big huge orbital floor sander can chew up a floor in a hurry if you do not know what you are doing. A belt sander or hand orbital sander will work fine. I have done two whole houses with them. Start by removing the old carpet .. then go over every square inch of the floor PRIOR to sanding to get nail heads, staples off the floor. Then start sanding. Use a dust collector sander cause it will get dusty real fast. Wear a mask. When you get the old floor final get some tack cloth to pick up the dirt and then you are ready for your coating. Two types of finish. Gloss or satin. Use Polyurathane finish in either and apply a coat with a brush. Let dry and do another coat. This stuff is tough and we need pics after it is done. You can do one room at a time and finish or do all at the same time. Piece of cake job and you will save a bundle doing it yourself. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
Piece of cake job and you will save a bundle doing it yourself.
Until you have to call in the professionals.[:D]0 -
Home Depot will rent you the sander and show you how to use it[;)]
Don0 -
quote:Originally posted by Colonel Plink
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
Piece of cake job and you will save a bundle doing it yourself.
Until you have to call in the professionals.[:D]
Like I said, it is an easy job... Cripe anyone can run an hand orbital sander. Your making mountains out of molehills. He will save enough to buy a few guns..[:D][:D]0 -
I rented a big sander once, to do a yellow pine floor. Screwed that job up and had to call in the pros.
As for doing it with a hand sander, I wouldn't touch that job.
I am pretty good at do it yourself, as I have bult three custom log houses by myself, I have built one stone fireplace and it works great, and I have built and flown my own airplane.
I hire out floor sanding jobs.
However, your floors may not need sanding. In our rental house business, we have taken carpet up in two entire houses, and the floors did not need sanding. Had to pull ten thousand carpet pad staples, I built a little tool. I got a regular screwdriver, and sharpened it with a file to where it was as sharp as a chisel. Then I bent the tip a little with vice grips. I could just pop those staples up with it, most popped right out, some I had to pull with needle nose pliers.
The oak floors were in good shape, had to mop and scrub them several times.
Whatever you decide to do, good luck.0 -
Don't do it! Hire a proffessional. I can guarantee you that I would be able to walk in and tell that your floors were not done by a proffessional should you choose to do them yourself. With that being said, you will definitely need to use a floor sander...and most likely a couple of them. There is a total of at least 3 different sanders you will need to do the job properly. I would STRONGLY suggest hiring this job out! 0 -
I see houses all the time where people said the could do it themself. HIRE SOMEONE!
edit: I am replaceing all the wood flooring in my house because the previous owner. He was a BRILLIANT man who could do anything. Anything except wood floors! It is costing me over $15,000. YES 15k for replaceing the flooring!0 -
It was stated he had OAK floors. Oak is not soft pine. They will probably be so hard with age that it takes a while to do them. Polyurathane paints on the floor easily. Like I said I did two homes and had no experience.. they looked like a professional did them. In fact 10 years after I did our home it was sold. The floors still looked new. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by allen griggs
Had to pull ten thousand carpet pad staples, I built a little tool. I got a regular screwdriver, and sharpened it with a file to where it was as sharp as a chisel. Then I bent the tip a little with vice grips. I could just pop those staples up with it, most popped right out, some I had to pull with needle nose pliers.they got something like that at the auto parts store, but with a V shaped head for pulling out those plastic door panel tabs. looks like a weed puller but the size of a screwdriver. works great on carpet staples. although the thousands I pulled were sticking up enough already that I just used channel lock pliers on all of 'em, much faster.
+1, get a pro to do it. ain't gonna rag about all the reasons why. when you have to pay someone else to redo it for you, you'll see why... it's up to you.0 -
You can do it, but you do have to be careful. Remove the baseboard. The belt sander is to do the bulk of the floor. They produce a fine dust, so seal off the area as best you can. Use a mid grit to take the old finish off and a fine grit to finish sand, say 100 grit then 200 finish. Always go with the grain and alway, always, always have the machine moving. If you stop it will gouge. Take your time, be systematic and consistent. The machine will do all the work...you just guide it.
The orbital sander is to do the edge only, where you can't go with the belt sander. That is usually a 6" to 12" band around the walls. Again keep it moving, although it isn't as critical as when using the large floor sander.
When you prepare to finish the floor be sure to sweep all the sawdust. Investing in some tackcloth in the paint section will come in handy. This tackcloth will gather the final really fine dust and leave the floor very clean.
Experiment with whatever stain in a small out-of-the-way area. The top coats should go on thin...simply follow the manufacturers directions. Some water-bourne products dry quickly but are not as hard as say polyurethane. Minwax makes some easy to use floor products. Use a quality lambswool applicator. Avoid bubbles.
This is a project that transforms homes in some very nice ways. Be consistent, take no shortcuts, and the floor will turn out nice.0 -
When the staples were sticking up a little bit, I just used the needle nosed pliers. But many of the staples were flush with the oak floor, or even countersunk a tiny bit. No way to get at 'em with the pliers without damaging the oak flooring. With those, my little homemade tool worked great, and did not damage the floor.
select-fire: You are right. Oak is much harder than even yellow pine, which is the hardest pine. So, oak would be harder to damage, I agree.
When I rented my machine, which was fifteen years ago, the only sander you could rent was a 110 volt job, a drum sander.
When I called in the pros to correct my crummy work on that pine floor, he had a much bigger 220 volt sander. This sander came in three pieces, which he assembled inside the house, weighed over 200 pounds. Heavier equals more stable.
Also, the pro sander had a depth of cut control. He adjusted the depth that it was sanding with a little lever. It was four times the machine of the one I rented.
But, he also had that big orbital sander to do the edges.0 -
quote:Originally posted by gagirl
I see houses all the time where people said the could do it themself. HIRE SOMEONE!
edit: I am replaceing all the wood flooring in my house because the previous owner. He was a BRILLIANT man who could do anything. Anything except wood floors! It is costing me over $15,000. YES 15k for replaceing the flooring!
See there cubslovers how many guns you will buy. You can do the job like I did with a belt sander and orbital sander. No need to rent a big drum sander. Just get on the floor and start sanding. Cost, Belt sander $150, orbital sander $50. Sandpaper $100 Polyurathane to do 1000 sf. 2000 two applications . 300 sf per gallon. 7 gallons needed= $200. Total cost $500 bucks plus the tackcloth and your time...0 -
My oldest son has been in the hardwood flooring business for 15+ years. I've heard many horror stories. Hire a pro! 0 -
Here's some advice, you got carpet, so more than likely it could be glued down, if so you want to get as much as possible up. Use chemical or something to dissolve it and scrap the hell out of it. Get some type of MASK for this and (when putting stain or poly on after your done sanding).
2nd, has the floor ever been painted that you know of or have you looked under it yet? If so, best bet is to get it up with some type of stripper (doesn't have to be perfect but does help in next step's).
3, If you use the drum or any sander for that matter, PLEASE make sure all the nails are under the surface or you will ruin the drum on the sander and it may not sand right.
4th, look at all the sanders cause the drum is more for professionals, cause if you stop with the drum down it will put a rut in the floor, same thing will happen if you start it in a NON-MOVING POSTION.
5th, if you have painted floors start with 36-40 grit, anything lower will gum up from the friction, but remember it will still gum up just not as bad. After you get it to a good state use a 20grit, then work your way back up. If renting from HOME DEPOT, Sand paper wise, get what you think you will need then get double on top of that, cause what you don't use, you can take it back.
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
a hammer and nail punch
Dust Mask (Respirator), can be used when sanding and putting down the stain and poly
Wood Filler
Some type of scraper
Get some type of Plastic to put over the door way and tape is shut with painters tape, that way it doesn't peel the paint. this will keep the dust out of the other parts of the house.
NOTES:
When sanding, when you ask your self how much will i need, depends on what shape your floors are in so like above take a lot of each grit.
Use sand-able/paint-able/stain-able wood filler, use after you knock the nails further down in the floor if need.
Can go two ways here between sanding BUT make sure you do use a vacuum between all sanding when switching. Now after you vacuum you will want to either get some tack cloth or a more less expensive way and more than likely free way is to get a DAMP not WET towel to run across the floor after the sanding to collect the dust that the vacuum didn't get.
Now when you stain, if you do plan on doing this, do it the old fashion way with a rag in hand or if comfortable use a good high quality paint brush.
Do you plan on putting a protective finish on it, if so a polyurethane will do. Now BEFORE you put the POLYUREYTHAN on use a SEALER that can be sanded usually PARKS PRO FINISH (get it at any HOME DEPOT) Read the instructions cause you may want to sand in between coats with a screen (can't be done with a drum unfortunately) get the SQ BUFF (VIBRATES BACK AND FORTH AND DOSEN"T MATTER WHICH WAY THE GRAIN IS GOING)
Difference Between Sanders:
ORIBITOL SANDER:
Not heavy duty but good on prefinished floors, or light duty work. You don't have to go with the grain as it spins. Also gets close and can edge with it, so you don't have to rent an edger
SQ BUFF also known as VIBRATING SANDER:
Can do medium/heavy duty work, but keep in mind it is slower if doing heavy duty work. Also may not work as well, just depends on the floors. This to you don't have to worry about the grain of the floor as it vibrates back and forth.
DRUM SANDER:
HEAVY DUTY, Good if you know how to work it, but keep in mind its more for professionals. MUST go with the grain of the floor. Like i said before up top, if using use caution, cause if you start it in in a stopped and the drum down it will dig a rut. Same thing when you stop keep moving and pull the drum up then stop.
this is what i can think of as of now, i may have forgotten a few things but I'm sure someone else will share or just call your local rental places.0 -
I'm a custom builder and I would not do my own floors. I sub them out...and for very good reason. Don't do it. 0 -
ANYBODY can do it!
Shucks, anybody can build a whole house!
Now, if you'll all excuse me, the automatic tranny in my wifes car is acting a little funny lately.
I've never done it before and I don't have any of the right tools, but I'm gonna go drop that baby onto the garage floor and start rebuilding it.
I should have it done by supper time .......... NO PROBLEM!0 -
Well if you can hand sand a firearm stock you can run a simple hand sander on the floor. We are not talking rocket scientist here...[:D] 0 -
Same as Select is sayin'...do it yourself... 0 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
quote:Originally posted by Colonel Plink
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
Piece of cake job and you will save a bundle doing it yourself.
Until you have to call in the professionals.[:D]
Like I said, it is an easy job... Cripe anyone can run an hand orbital sander. Your making mountains out of molehills. He will save enough to buy a few guns..[:D][:D]
So...
How many guns you got on the block?....0 -
"Here's some advice, you got carpet, so more than likely it could be glued down"
Joker, carpet on concrete floors is usually glued. On wooden floors, it is usually attached to those little 1 inch wide wooden strips that have a million little tacks sticking up through them from the bottom to grip the carpet. And, the carpet pad, on wooden floors, is stapled down with a million staples.0 -
quote:So...
How many guns you got on the block?...
Sooo...Why would folk wanna sell they's guns...?...0 -
quote:Originally posted by gagirl
I see houses all the time where people said the could do it themself. HIRE SOMEONE!
edit: I am replaceing all the wood flooring in my house because the previous owner. He was a BRILLIANT man who could do anything. Anything except wood floors! It is costing me over $15,000. YES 15k for replaceing the flooring!
How many square feet?0 -
quote:Originally posted by Smokin Guns
quote:So...
How many guns you got on the block?...
Sooo...Why would folk wanna sell they's guns...?...
Nah, I was just joshin' select-fire. I figgered he had a few guns he wanted to sell cubslover....
I sincerely hope my post was taken in jest.
Cuz that's how I wrote it.0 -
quote:I am replaceing all the wood flooring in my house
Need to post some Pic's of the flooring...and why some folk are telling y'all why it needs replaced...0 -
I got an eye on this one. Don't need it but man is it sweet.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=628492140 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
I got an eye on this one. Don't need it but man is it sweet.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=62849214
I have a philosophy about that.
There are guns I have.
And there are guns I need.
Because I don't have 'em.0 -
IF you are gonna try to do this yourself- Got kneepads? GOOD knee pads. Not a kitchen sponge duct taped to your jeans. Trust me on this- your orthopedist will thank you. 0 -
quote: I'm a custom builder and I would not do my own floors. I sub them out...
For sure...it requires...work...0 -
quote:Originally posted by allen griggs
"Here's some advice, you got carpet, so more than likely it could be glued down"
Joker, carpet on concrete floors is usually glued. On wooden floors, it is usually attached to those little 1 inch wide wooden strips that have a million little tacks sticking up through them from the bottom to grip the carpet. And, the carpet pad, on wooden floors, is stapled down with a million staples.
well maybe if a professional did, but do it your self people have done things that don't make since. but yes you are right. , also if this is an old house theres no telling whats under there0
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