Low viscosity epoxy
Any of you gents had any experience with this stuff and if you have your preferences?
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Agraglas and the stuff used to restore dry rotted wood both seem to work well. With those 2 products, the idea is to let them penatrate the wood fibers and make the wood stronger than it was origionaly. 0 -
that's my theory, I want to put in the cracks in the wooden propellor 84" x 9.5" that is on my snowplane engine to see if I can salvage the prop, as a new one cost $950 delivered.
I'll check it out, Thanks0 -
WSSI does a stabilazation process that I believe would serve your purpose well. Not sure they can do something of that size or not, but just email Mike..he'll help if he can.
http://www.stabilizedwood.com/0 -
quote:Originally posted by dpmule
that's my theory, I want to put in the cracks in the wooden propellor 84" x 9.5" that is on my snowplane engine to see if I can salvage the prop, as a new one cost $950 delivered.
I'll check it out, Thanks
No offense, but that thing spins at a lot of RPM and if it came apart could do a lot of damage, maybe to you!
In my aviation days we would never repair a prop.0 -
quote:Originally posted by 180A
quote:Originally posted by dpmule
that's my theory, I want to put in the cracks in the wooden propellor 84" x 9.5" that is on my snowplane engine to see if I can salvage the prop, as a new one cost $950 delivered.
I'll check it out, Thanks
No offense, but that thing spins at a lot of RPM and if it came apart could do a lot of damage, maybe to you!
In my aviation days we would never repair a prop.
+1 All a cracked prop is good for is to hang on the wall. When that thing goes (not if), you're going to have more problems and repairs than just a cracked prop. Fix it right and get a new prop. Look into a used aluminum one, it'll be more durable and you might save some money. Plus, nicks can be blended out of aluminum.0 -
Aluminums don't work any better on a snowplane than they do on a airboat. That's why they are run on neither. and pusher props, unless you have a buddy with a 310 Skymaster or a Trilander are hard to find.
I appreciate the concern with the potential hazards, but I have seen props on other snowplanes in service that actually looked worse larger checks and delamination.
My thought was to eliminate areas for water/slush, moisture in general to get into, fill the voids and prevent further opening of these checks. Then coat with fibreglass resin, repaint and rebalance.
My 6cyl Lycoming is rated @2550, but it never gets to even half that with this prop, even with three adults in the beast.
If it scatters then the GB board will have more pictures and a story.
I'll update on how it turns out.0 -
If want to look into a new prop, check out www.aircraftspruce.com
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/props.html
THey have a propeller form that you fill out with your engine info and it even asks for tractor or pusher prop.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/propellerform.php
I'm nt trying to tell you what to do, just trying to help a little and give you some options.0 -
Did you look into the stabilzing process any? If it can be done, you wouldn't even have to paint it afterward...unless you just wanted to. It permeates every cell/fiber of the wood with an acrylic, fills all cracks, and could retain it's natural appearance. Not sure what effect the temp. extremes or g-force would have on it, but worth looking into i would think. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by dpmule
Aluminums don't work any better on a snowplane than they do on a airboat. That's why they are run on neither.Not that I have either one, but curious as to why aluminum props are unsuitable.0 -
I understand what you are saying, but maybe you don't understand my situation.
, nothing on my machine has to be certified, so used plugs/jugs/mags or what ever saves me money.
buying brand new that must have a FAA cert/seal etc equals lots more money
These are some that I have considered when I do order my replacement, look at the difference between them and ac props.
http://www.arrowprop.com/
http://www.woodenpropeller.com/Airboat_propellers.html
Sryor, I'm going to look into the stabilizing process, but my tips and leading edges are covered with stainless steel it might a problem, but I'll find out. Thanks0 -
quote:
WSSI does a stabilazation process that I believe would serve your purpose well. Not sure they can do something of that size or not, but just email Mike..he'll help if he can.
http://www.stabilizedwood.com/
I checked it out, never really saw a min/max on size, but price of $8.50/lb and weight increase from 20 to 150% kind of worried me.
Think I'll stick with original idea of LV epoxy and resin, and if it self-destructs, I'll just have to order a new one
quote:quote:
Originally posted by dpmule
Aluminums don't work any better on a snowplane than they do on a airboat. That's why they are run on neither.
Not that I have either one, but curious as to why aluminum props are unsuitable.
quote:Look at the airboats, don't see aluminum on them.
Not a AC engineer, but my guess is most aluminum props max thrust is at a lot higher rpm than the airboat/snowplane prop.
bigger wider wooden prop with more bite, they are now using composite material also, but boy are they expensive.
These snowplanes are poorboy/farmboy toys, just something different to plat with0
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