I WANT A TABLE SAW----UPDATE
I want to buy a table saw for some hobby projects and minor home repairs.I will be buying a older used American made model.I will be getting one with a cast iron table.Should I get a 8 or 10 inch model ? Belt drive or direct drive ? I am not setup for 220 voltage at this time,so I need a 110 volt model.I have seen many saws on Craig's list for sale around my area.Prices go from $25.00 up to $150.00 on the average.I see alot of older Craftsman saws for sale that are U.S. made.I am thinking that a belt drive model could be repaired quicker and cheaper than the direct drive models.Also I am thnking the 8 inch model because I already have some new blades in that size.I don't want a $500.00 dollar model that was made in China and sold at Home Depoop.What say ye ?
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I have 3 table saws. 1 large floor mounted saw and two portable benchtop type saws.
I use the benchtop saws all the time and the floor mount type collects dust. The power of the bigger one is nice but the little ones will do the job, just a little slower.
If it cam down to it I would keep the benchtop saw and get rid of the bigger one for the amount of use they get.0 -
Think I too would go for the belt drive, for the reasons you
mention. Myself, I'd prefer the 10in., but if just cutting _" stock
8in. should be just fine.
I have an older Craftsman 10" belt drive, and the belt drive has worked
flawlessly for about 25yrs...and the saw was old when got it.[:)]0 -
One of the most important parts of a table saw is the fence.
A crummy fence will drive you nuts trying to get it right.
I have a 10" Grizzly and it does a fine job.
It is not US made but very little is anymore.
The fence locks up true and straight every time.
I would not buy if I could not try it first.
Good luck.
AC0 -
definately get the 10" - if you do any kind of dados or rabbits, you'll find an 8" underpowered. The 10" craftsman direct drive are pretty good saws, that's what I have.
Also cutting through pressure treated wood will be really hard with an 8".0 -
10 inch belt driven. 0 -
Craftsman 10" belt driven is what I have and love it. 0 -
I also have a Craftsman 10" belt drive... I started with an 8" makita and soon found out that the 8" is not worthless but just could not re-saw worth a crap. I did use it for about 5 years until she wanted a dinning room hutch (our rule is, if I make her something, I get to buy a new tool) Then I saved for a good 10" with a good fence. It is Soooooo much better - Save up a little more and get the 10". 0 -
Mine is a 10" belt drive also.
It makes a good table.
I thought the 8" was underpowered.0 -
I have a 10" CRAFTSMAN that I will
sell to someone local (no shipping)
as I am down sizing.
It was built mid to late '50 's0 -
Table saw versus radial arm saw might also be a question.
I have both and don't use either. Wood just isn't in my blood. I went in halves with my father in law on the table saw and when he passed away I got. My step father also willed his radial arm saw to me and I leave it at Mom's in case somebody needs it over there.
Give me a metal cutting bandsaw any day...
David from jax0 -
I have to vote for the 10-inch belt-drive saw. I have four table saws -- a 10-inch Craftsman belt-drive with cast top, a 10-inch C'man direct drive with cast top, an 8-inch C'man belt drive and an 8-inch belt-drive brand whose name escapes me at the moment. I use them all, but if I could have only one, it would be the 10-inch belt-drive. It's a lot cheaper and easier to replace a belt-drive motor than a direct-drive. Regarding radial-arms saws, I have four 10-inch Craftsman and like them for cross-cuts, but they can be dangerous to rip on because of potential kickback. There's nothing wrong with 110-volt saws if you have a circuit to handle them. Also, keep in mind you can use your 8-inch blades on a 10-inch saw; you just lose a little capacity. I often use smaller blades on the 10-inch saws -- they're cheaper, rob less power from the saw and will do most of the cuts I do. 0 -
...Since you are not going to be running it everyday, as you said...you don't need a commercial type saw, 3 phase/220v.
A 10" with a 1hp belt drive should do the trick for you.
As was said, make sure you get one with an easily adjustable, ACCURATE fence! If your fence does not "lock" firmly/easily in place, all your cuts will be off and it will make it a PIA to adjust the fence.
...Delta saws are distributed (made?) by DeWalt, so you have DeWalts service behind it; I found this out about 3 months ago when I called about getting a manual I had missplaced for a Delta scroll saw. The model I needed a manual for was no longer made (surprise!) but!...the nice customer service lady had me a very nice one printed, bound and got it out to me in about 2 weeks...along with six free packages of assorted blades, about a $24 dollar value![^]
...I have an older Delta 10" table saw and the fence is accurate and adjusts/locks easily...and has plenty of power. My table saw and scroll saw are probably 7-8 years old, and both work well for what I use them for surprisingly well; and Ive used the snot out of both.
...I have used the table saw for umpteen projects, some that did require nice clean very accurate cuts, and it has performed all tasks I ask of it very well. I forget the model but it is a "table top" size.
Table is aprox. 17" X 26", I suspose you could buy a stand for it but I have a 20 year old "three sided" steel table with locable casters that you pull a pin (kinda like a PTO pin) and flip the top and up pops another machine, very cool space saver and sturdy! I have the table saw, belt disc sander, and router table mounted on this one table that has a footprint of only 48" X 29".
...I can't vouch for the newer Delta models as mine is older, but if the new ones are made as good as this one, well worth the money in the $200/110v range...but then DeWalt is behind them.
...Since your not spending a $1,000 bucks or more for a saw, you are not going to get the quality of a $1,000 saw, meaning it is going to be louder and your going to have more vibration...other than those two factors, I like mine a lot, never a problem with the scroll/table saw...[^]
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I had the 10 inch dewalt belt drive it burnt in my garage, but was a damned fine saw. The newer craftsman stuff really sucks, I'd keep away from craftsman unless its a few years old. 0 -
+1 for the older Craftsman 10" belt-drive models. My father-in-law and brother-in-law each have one, both have worked fine for many years, and both were used when they bought them. We have done many projects over the years with them, and found them plenty accurate for everything from rough framing to making furniture.
As for me? I don't really need one. My father-in-law and brother-in-law both have nice ones!0 -
I refuse to set foot in Home Depot. The first thing you should do is make up your mind what your going to ask the saw to do, then select one that will do the job. The reason their are so many used table saws is a lot of them are purchased that wont handle cutting large sheets of plywood, or the 10 inch saw is not big enough, If you get one with a 12 inch blade be very careful not to cut a nail as the 12 inch blades are pricey. 0 -
The one I have is a Delta 10" belt drive. It does a real good job. 0 -
A word of caution: I useed rough sawn cedar for many many projects. I
had planed and sawed truckloads of it, and then one day IT happened.lol
I was ripping a 1x, and it had this tiny lil knot in it. This tiny
lil knot was obviously a lil loose, and the blade fired it (at a high
rate of speed) directly into my right testi. I fell to floor and
rolled around moanin/screaming and gritting my teeth for several
minutes...before I could hobble the 80yrds to the house and lay down.[xx(][8D]0 -
Spry
That was a real ball buster, kind of like the chain breaking on a bike.0 -
I have a Delta 10inch.Refurhed and a really good saw paid $99 for it. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by spryor
A word of caution: I useed rough sawn cedar for many many projects. I
had planed and sawed truckloads of it, and then one day IT happened.lol
I was ripping a 1x, and it had this tiny lil knot in it. This tiny
lil knot was obviously a lil loose, and the blade fired it (at a high
rate of speed) directly into my right testi. I fell to floor and
rolled around moanin/screaming and gritting my teeth for several
minutes...before I could hobble the 80yrds to the house and lay down.[xx(][8D]
The only thing that came to mind when I read that was OUCH!!![:0].0 -
look at www.sawstop.com -I think I saw it here. 0 -
Get a table saw, use it once, put it away never to be used again....
Get a whatever.. use it once, put it away never to be used again....
Men and their tools......sheeeeeeeeesh...*LOL0 -
Well,
I wound up getting a 8 inch belt drive Craftsman saw that was made in the 1950s.It was only $40.00 and I found out I already have two owners manuals for it.It has a castiron top and came with the rip fence and the miter gauge.It only has a 1/3 horse motor on it.I do have a nice 1 horse motor with low hours out in the garage.I also have two new 8 inch blades my wife got from the lost and found at the car rental company she works for.I am still looking for a 10 inch model to cut bigger stuff.I have seen lots of them on Craigslist,just havn't found one old enough.
EvilDr2350 -
I'm in the market also. You guys seem to prefer cast iron over aluminum - why? Maybe the weight keeps vibration down? 0 -
I have a 10" Craftsman, belt drive, probably made in the late 50's - early 60's. Cast table, motor mounted on the rear and hangs down for belt tension. Great saw. When I'm not using is, I wind the sawblade down, and use the table for a nice, flat, level, heavy duty work-table.[:D] 0 -
My thought is cast iron is less likely to warp ? The added weight keeps it from walking around the shop ? The grooves for the miter gage don't wear out as fast on a cast iron table VS a aluminum table ?
EvilDr2350 -
I have a 10" Powdermatic with a 3 hp 3 phase motor. It has more power than anything I have ever used. Hooked up to a dust collection system with 4' of table on three sides you can cut anything.
And BR- I have used it on more than one project.0 -
Well it's 5 months later and I now own 6 Craftsman table saws.I have started to collect them.5 are 8 inch models and one is a 6 inch model.They are all cast iron models.On the 6 inch model the table tilts instead of the blade.They range in age from 1949 to the early 1960s.Each one is slightly different from each other.Only the 6 inch model does not run at this time.It is missing the motor.Only one has the factory bolt on extentions.3 came with owners manuals.I have alot of both new and used blades,including a 8 inch dado set.I do need to find a set of factory wrenches used to change the blades.So for 5 workig saws and one not working,I have a total of $167.00 invested in my new hobby.I passed on a nice old cast iron Craftsman band saw this past summer for $20.00-I should have bought it.
EvilDr2350 -
I want to buy a table saw for some hobby projects and minor home repairs.I will be buying a older used American made model.I will be getting one with a cast iron table.Should I get a 8 or 10 inch model ? Belt drive or direct drive ? I am not setup for 220 voltage at this time,so I need a 110 volt model.I have seen many saws on Craig's list for sale around my area.Prices go from $25.00 up to $150.00 on the average.I see alot of older Craftsman saws for sale that are U.S. made.I am thinking that a belt drive model could be repaired quicker and cheaper than the direct drive models.Also I am thnking the 8 inch model because I already have some new blades in that size.I don't want a $500.00 dollar model that was made in China and sold at Home Depoop.What say ye ?
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I have a Rigid TS3650 from Home Depot. Yes, one of those awful $500 saws that you speak of. Problem is, my table is dead level, the fence locks down like it was welded to the table, the motor is strong, and it cuts 6/4 oak like a knife through butter. And it's got a mobile base that works great. Funny thing is, the good folks at Fine Woodworking also say it's a hell of a saw for the money. But then again, what do they know?
I also have a Delta Rockwell saw, made in the USA, from about 60 years ago. The table is half the size of my Rigid, the fence deflects a great deal, and there's no splitter. It does make nice cuts, but when I cut wood I always go to the Rigid.
If I were you, I'd look for a Rigid on craigslist. I found mine for $325.
If you want to spend $100 on a Craftsman, you can probably find a 20 year old one for about that amount. Keep in mind that it's going to need a good bit of tweaking and that you may have trouble finding parts for it, and the top will probably be rusted.
If you want American quality, you're looking for a Powermatic 66. It's a gorgeous saw, but you'll need 220 and it runs about $3000. You can also find an old Unisaw that's American made, and with a Biesemeyer fence you'll have a heck of a saw. That will run you $900 for the saw and $300 for the fence.0 -
MAybe this has already been mentioned, but you can put your 8" blades in the 10" saw until all your blades are used up then start buying the 10" blades. 0
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