Question for our Raceing people
I am thinking of building a car for the Stock 4 class dirt track raceing.
Can any of our people who race get me a defentitive set up for the car itself and what is required in the car and what is not allowed?
I have found a couple sites with listings on this but they differ on the car requirements.
I think it might be fun to build and race one of these and am thinking it could be done on a fairly low budget.
Can any of our people who race get me a defentitive set up for the car itself and what is required in the car and what is not allowed?
I have found a couple sites with listings on this but they differ on the car requirements.
I think it might be fun to build and race one of these and am thinking it could be done on a fairly low budget.
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Git
Check the local track where you plan to race. Many tracks have different "rules" for the small 4 banger racer cars.
Our local small track is a paved oval. There basic rules are.
No glass, Roll bar, 5 point harness, Racing seat, Drivers side Window net, 1/3 of windshield must be covered by a wire screen (in front of driver), Anything that can burn must be removed from inside of cock pit (plastic dash, rear seat, Carpet, head and door liners etc), Passenger door welded shut, Secured racing approved type fuel tank, Fire extinguisher, and have a Battery cut off switch that kills all power that can easily be gotten a hold of from out side of the car and at least a 6 inch hole cut in the hood just above the carb or intake for fire fighting purposes. Then you are allowed to go racing.0 -
Got bucks!??
[:D]0 -
quote:I think it might be fun to build and race one of these and am thinking it could be done on a fairly low budget.
I raced Super Comp on a fairly low budget, it only cost $30,000 per year, most of the top racers were spending $100,000+ for the year. My dad is able to fly his Cessna on a fairly low budget, only $40,000 per year, having another partner really halps. A good friend of mine races those "turn left" cars in the Super Stock class on a fairly low budget, he only spends $140,000 per year. No matter what you do it is going to cost you money, so the onkly question is "what is your budget?"0 -
Yep, check with the track(s) you want to run at. Most will have different rules to some extent. 0 -
As Les said, your best bet is to contact the local track or tracks at which you wish to race, and find out what there specs for tech are. Specs can vary from track to track regarding weight,
wheels, body styles and chassis set-ups that are allowable, right down to the tires.
Mike's 12 year olf has been racing in the charger class (4-cylenders for 12 to 17 year olds, or kids with 4+ years racing experience in another venue). They don't go as fast as the 4-banger class for adults, due to more restrictions on set-up, but they are fun to watch.
Racing can be as expensive or inexpensive as you want it to be, after the initial cost. If you are going to run for fun, then it can be pretty cheap. If you are going to run for points, then that's a bit of a financial commitment.0 -
"Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go ??" - Smokey Yunick
"You can't beat - cubic money" - Gas Ronda
Doug Wilson0 -
quote:Originally posted by git_r_done
I am thinking of building a car for the Stock 4 class dirt track raceing.
Can any of our people who race get me a defentitive set up for the car itself and what is required in the car and what is not allowed?
I have found a couple sites with listings on this but they differ on the car requirements.
I think it might be fun to build and race one of these and am thinking it could be done on a fairly low budget.
Why don't you ride down here some Friday night and we will run over to Sumter and do some research. Different classes and rules..some per racetrack. I know this guy who has a 18' flatbed and a heavy right foot that might also be interested in making some dirt fly..0 -
quote:Originally posted by Doug Wilson
"Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go ??" - Smokey Yunick
"You can't beat - cubic money" - Gas Ronda
Doug Wilson
With all due respect to Smokey, the driver's ability has a lot to do with it, too. We're talking Saturday nite local dirt track level here.
Give me a driver with experience and handling know-how in a mediocre machine anyday over a driver with mediocre skills in a car with thousands of dollars poured into it.0 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
quote:Originally posted by git_r_done
I am thinking of building a car for the Stock 4 class dirt track raceing.
Can any of our people who race get me a defentitive set up for the car itself and what is required in the car and what is not allowed?
I have found a couple sites with listings on this but they differ on the car requirements.
I think it might be fun to build and race one of these and am thinking it could be done on a fairly low budget.
Why don't you ride down here some Friday night and we will run over to Sumter and do some research. Different classes and rules..some per racetrack. I know this guy who has a 18' flatbed and a heavy right foot that might also be interested in making some dirt fly..
We'll have to do that one of these days pretty soon. I also have a track that is only about 15 miles from me that runs on Fridays as well.
I may have an in on a car to fix up that will possibly cost nothing.
Biggest expence that I can see so far is the roll cage. But I will also need a fuel cell and a raceing seat with a 5 point harness. There are a few other odds and ends as well.
I would be doing this for fun and would not really care about winning. But I also would definatly get out there and give it my all and try to win if I can.
I was figureing the stock 4 class as I think it would be the least expensive to run for a person like me who will be footing the bill myself.
I have been going two 2 local tracks and watching but have not talked with anyone yet to learn about set ups. But I guess I will start doing this.0 -
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quote:Originally posted by git_r_done
I think it might be fun to build and race one of these and am thinking it could be done on a fairly low budget.
Racing and budget are not 2 words that don't go together in the same sentence.[:D]
It doesn't matter if your just racing bicycles it gets expensive.0 -
If you want to make a small fortune racing.......start with a large fortune.[:D] Best of luck in whatever you decide to do.Dave 0 -
quote:Originally posted by use enough gun
If you want to make a small fortune racing.......start with a large fortune.[:D] Best of luck in whatever you decide to do.Dave
I'm too old to think about makeing a fortune in raceing!
But my son! now that another story![;)]
I am thinking of getting him a raceing gocart in the next year or 2!
He just might be able to do something with it![:D]0 -
So far this is the best description I have found on the net. It comes from a South Carolina track near Charlston.
STREET STOCK 4
(Stock Four 4 Main: 15 minutes or 8 laps / Heat: 15 minutes or 6 laps)
1. Any American or foreign 1970 or later 4 cylinder car or mini pickup allowed, except as follows: No convertibles or station wagons. Two wheel drive or mini pickup only. No turbo or fuel injection cars. No multi-carburetor engines. No rotary, mid or rear engine or Cosworth engine vehicles. No engine with more than two (2) valves per cylinder. Must run front engine and rear wheel drives. NO four (4) wheel drives allowed. Camber Plates okay.
2. Engine must be stock. Not to exceed 2500 CC (.040 overbore permitted). Displacement must be posted on both sides of hood in cc's(-5cc's tolerance)
3. Clutch & Flywheel must remain stock. Flywheel minimum weight 16 lbs.
4. No altering of car, this means any part of the car, unless it is stated in rules. All hood and trunk hinges can be removed. Body must be stock appearing. Roof MUST BE OEM. Body must have original bodylines. Aluminum okay. Engine must match body. Example Ford to Ford and Chevy to Chevy, ect) No Spoilers inside car.
5. The modifications are as follows:
a. After market front and rear bumper covers may be used.
b. All headlights and taillights must be removed with all holes covered.
c. Battery can be relocated
d. Fuel cell required and it must be mounted in a metal can. Cutting holes in trunk is okay, but must not be more than is necessary to mount fuel cell.
e. Dash may be removed. Must have fabricated dash.
f. Cutting interior body panels okay. Should not be excessive. Door panels can be removed from roll cage.
g. Loop bar okay around radiator.
h. Hood and deck lid can be gutted
i. Boxing of interior will be permitted
j. After market radiator okay.
k. Quick Steer Box okay.
6. WHEELS: Steel wheels only and maximum width.
7. TIRES: 60 or 70 series steel belted. NO RACING TIRES.
8. RESURFACE ENGINES:
ALL ENGINES MUST BE STOCK OR AS STATED: Cam: 410 max lift. Out stock cast iron exhaust manifold. NO FACTORY TYPE HEADER, clutch pressure plate, and Flywheel must be stock any stock production head. No porting or polishing. 3-angle valve job only. No HAND BLENDING UNDER VALVE. Stock diameter valves and springs. You can use after market timing pulley and drill stock pulley to advance cam. Must run stock steel rods. Must weight 1 lb per CC 2,000 lbs. Min. May head.
b. Carb-Holley #7448-350, #0-80583-350 stock remove chock flap only.
9. FUEL: track fuel is TURBO BLUE ONLY. Must pass track test.
10. SAFETY:
Full face helmet, complete two ply fire suit with fire gloves -MANDATORY.
Roll Cage - MANDATORY - Must have minimum of three (3) bars in driver's door.
Window net - MANDATORY
Fuel Cell - MANDATORY (Must be mounted in metal can)
Seat belt - Five (5) point System -MANDATORY
Windshield screen - MANDATORY
Fire Extinguisher, with gauges mounted in a quick release harness in reach of driver- MANDATORY
Scatter shield- MANDATORY
Battery must be mounted outside of driver compartment or in enclosed bolted down box.
Fuel lines must be under car or in tubing.
RADIOS ALLOWED, NO MIRRORS, WINDOW NET IS REQUIRED.
l. Any 7 inch steel wheel all 4 must be same offset (No bead locks allowed)
ANY ITEM NOT SPECIFIED ABOVE MUST BE APPROVED BEFORE HAND OR IT'S NOT LEGAL!0 -
experienced drivers are big money too.[:I]
and driving cheap clunkers against an expensive car?
an experienced driver in a cheap car may be able to win a race against an expensive car, but for how many times?
usually if a cheap car is totaled or blows something, its the end of the road for that owner. expensive cars and owners have a quick turnaround an are back at it like it never happened.[;)]
its all one big money pit.0 -
That sounds almost exactly what my old Mustang was. 0 -
Here are the stock 4 banger rules from my local track:
Note that you still need to adhere to the tracks "General Comp Rules" also.
Mini-Stock (4 Cylinder) Rules
This is an entry-level class for fun and learning. Strict adherence to all of the rules is mandatory. Any and all violations of the rules are grounds for disqualification. You may not compete in this class if you have ever been a track champion at Whittemore Speedway or if you have competed in any other class for a full season.
Body: Front and Rear Wheel drive Sedan type bodies and pick-up trucks only. Convertibles, 4-wheel drive, two seat sports cars and station-wagons are not allowed. The exterior of the body must remain stock and complete including bumpers and sheet metal. The body must be completely and neatly painted. 12-inch tall by 3-inch wide numbers of contrasting colors must appear on both sides of the car and on the roof. The number on the roof must face the outside of the track. A white 6-inch tall x 1-inch number must be located on the upper passenger side of the windshield. The body interior must be stripped down to the sheet metal. The driver side may be cut for safety bars. All doors must either be bolted, welded or chained shut. All glass must be removed except for the windshield. A Lexan windshield may be used in place of a stock windshield. Stock panels or patch panels must replace interior panels that were damaged or destroyed during car construction. Mirrors are not allowed. 5/16-inch Tow chains are mandatory on the front and rear, must support the weight of the car. For rear-wheel drive cars there must be two 3-inch holes in the hood for fire extinguisher access. The holes are to be 7-inches from the sides and 21-inches from the back of the hood. For front wheel drive cars, the 3-inch holes must be on both sides of the engine, front and rear. Subject to approval.
Battery: Only one battery is allowed. The battery must be located outside of the driver's compartment and securely mounted in a 16-gage steel box. A battery disconnect is mandatory. The disconnect must be located within easy reach of the driver and Track Officials.
Brakes: Factory stock four (4) wheel hydraulic brakes, all in good working order.
Drive Axle: Must be factory stock, no welded, posi-track or limited slip differentials allowed.
Engine: Factory stock engine and components. The engine must be stock for the car model and must be located in the stock location. The only engine modifications that are allowed are:
a. Stock Stroke Crankshafts only.
b. Cylinder heads can be shaved, maximum 9.5 to 1 compression ratio.
c. No other machine work allowed.
d. Stock type cams only, solid or roller cams are not allowed.
e. Only OEM designed Pistons allowed.
For safety reasons you are allowed one chain on the left side motor mount of the engine. Single Over-head cam engines only. Dual over-head cam engines, Turbo-charged, rotary type or marine engines are not allowed. 2-barrel carburetors or Factory stock fuel injection systems are allowed. Stock or 350-cfm Holley 7448 only. No altering of carburetor or racing carburetor. Ignition systems and fuel control systems must be stock, aftermarket chips are not allowed. 4-inch tall x 14-inch diameter open-air cleaners are allowed. Flow control type air-cleaners are not allowed. Aluminum or shaved flywheels are not allowed. There is a $250.00 claim on the carburetor. See the details. Engine Coolant: Water only. Anti-freeze and wetting agents are not allowed. Engine Starters: All cars must have a working starter at all times.
Exhaust: Cast Iron Exhaust manifolds only. Maximum diameter of the exhaust pipe is 2-inches, O.D. The exhaust must exit under the car and behind the driver with turndowns pointed at the ground.
Fuel/ Fuel System:
A. All cars must have an approved fuel cell securely mounted in the trunk area. A 20-gage thick steel firewall must separate the trunk area and the driver's compartment. Fuel lines cannot pass through the driver's compartment. The fuel cell must have 8-inches of ground clearance.
B. No aftermarket components. A conical air filter is allowed and must be attached to the factory inlet ducting. Cold air kits are not allowed. Cars with electric fuel pumps must have an oil pressure activated safety shut-off. Fuel Injected cars must use approved high pressure or OEM fuel lines.
C. Electric Fuel pumps for fuel injected cars only. The pump must be securely mounted in the trunk if the pump is an external pump.
D. Fuel: Pump gas only, no additives are allowed
8. Radiator: Must be stock size and in stock location, sheet metal cannot be altered to locate the radiator. A one-gallon plastic catch can must be used for over-flow and mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment. Any re-enforcement to protect the radiator must be located behind the grill. Made for racing radiators are not allowed.
9. Roll Cage: All cars must have a minimum of six (6) point roll cage made of 1 _- inch round, .095 wall thickness steel tubing welded to the car frame. If the car does not have a stock frame, a 6-inch x 6-inch x 1/8 thick steel plate must be bolted to the body and the roll cage welded to the steel plate. Three 3/8-inch solid steel struts must be placed directly behind the windshield and directly ahead of the driver. Three (3) Driver-side sissy bars made of the same material as the roll cage must be securely mounted to the roll cage. A steel plate 16 x 24 x 1/8 must be mounted to the sissy bars between the door skin and the bars. All roll bars near the drive must be padded with made for racing roll bar padding.
10.Suspension: Must be factory stock in stock location. Must match make, model and year of car. Adjustable spring spacers are allowed. Screw jacks are not allowed. You are allowed a maximum of 1.5" of camber measured on the rim on any adjustable wheel. A carpenters square and tape measure will be used to inspect this.
11. Shocks: Stock Shocks only. Made for racing shocks are not allowed. Maximum of one shock per wheel.
12 .Tires: Made for racing tires such as Hoosier or McCreary are not allowed. Maximum 60-series D.O.T. radial passenger car tires and can be no larger than 235. Maximum 8-inch tread width.
13.Transmissions: Stock Transmissions and clutches only. Modifications to the transmission and clutch are forbidden. Made for racing transmissions, clutches and flywheels are not allowed. A 2-inch diameter inspection hole must be in the bottom of the bell housing is mandatory. Drive Shafts: Made of Steel only. Must be painted white. Front and rear drive-shaft hoops made of steel are required. Chains are not allowed. Aluminum drive shafts are not allowed.
14. Weight: Rear Wheel Drive 2,500 lbs.
Front Wheel Drive over 2000 cc, 2,350 lbs
Front Wheel Drive under 2000 cc, 2,250
Maximum left side weight percentage is 55% with the driver in the car seat, zero tolerance. All added weight must be painted white and securely bolted to the car with 1/2 inch diameter bolts.
15. Wheels: Only Steel made for racing wheels are allowed. Maximum allowed width is 8-inches. Any amount of back spacing is allowed as long as the tires and wheels do not protrude past the body panels.
16. Carbon-fiber components: not allowed
17. Window Nets: Approved driver side window net with a quick release mechanism securely mounted to the roll cage is mandatory.
18. Spoiler: A Lexan spoiler is allowed. Dimensions not to exceed 6" high and length of trunklid. No vertical support allowed.
Engine Tear Down Rule
You can tear down only (2) engines per racing season. Any engine can be torn down for $200.00 US funds. $150.00 goes to the protested car if deemed legal, $50.00 goes to tech inspectors either way.You cannot back out of this process once the money has been presented to the Tech Inspector. The request must be made within 5-minutes of the completion of the feature race. A Driver that competed in the feature race or the Car Owner may tear down an engine. If the requested party refuses to have the engine torn down all money won for that night are forfeited, all accumulated points to date are forfeited and the Driver is barred from competition for 2 consecutive weeks. If anyone refuses to tear down an engine two times during a racing season they will lose all points for the year and will not be eligible to compete for the remaining racing season.
Carburetor Claim Rule
Carburetor can be claimed for $250.00. The Driver and or Owner of the car competing in two previous features are eligible to claim carburetors. The claimer must exchange the carburetor from his car at that time for the carburetor that is being claimed. Failure to accept claim results in loss of points for the year and money for that night. If the claimers carburetor is not an exact match and fails to perform as decided by the Tech Inspector the claim is voided. The claim must be made within 5-minutes of the end of the feature event to the Tech Inspector.0 -
Here's what I raced to in LaCrosse, WI when I ran Hornets
HORNETS/ENDURO
Eligible Models
1. Any 3 or 4 cylinder compact car. Maximum wheelbase of 103".
Interior
1. Dash, steering and pedals must remain stock.
2. Car radio and speakers must remain intact and in working condition.
3. Folding seatback fastened in position.
4. No racing seals.
5. Interior floor pan must be complete. No holes.
6. All airbags must be deactivated.
Body
1. Sun roof openings must be closed.
2. Remove all glass except windshield. Broken glass must be cleaned from inside car before arriving at speedway.
3. Driver's door must be chained or welded shut. Driver's door plate recommended.
4. Passenger door chained only.
5. Bumpers must be chained to frame.
6. Hood and trunk must be secured with hood pins only. All factory hood and trunk latches must be removed.
7. No gutting of steel body panels.
8. Working third brake light optional.
Engine Compartment
1. Stock engine for that make and model from carburetor to the exhaust manifold.
2. Stock transmission.
3. All insulation under hood must be removed.
4. Battery must be in stock location. Secured by minimum 1/8" x 1" steel strap with minimum 3/8" hardware with large head washers.
5. Exhaust complete and leak free. Maximum size of 2" o.d. must run from engine to an area behind the driver.
6. Car horn must remain intact and in working condition.
Suspension
1. Steering and suspension must remain stock. No modifications. Ride attitude must be maintained.
2. 1/2" camber allowed. Measured with a carpenter square.
3. No ballast may be added.
Cooling System
1. Any radiator allowed which will fit in stock mounts. An overflow container mounted in engine compartment. Water only in radiator. No anti-freeze.
Gas Tank
1. If gas tank is ahead of rear axle it may remain in place. If gas tank is behind axle it must be placed with a fuel cell or marine tank (max. 6.6 gal.). Must be secured by minimum 1/8" x 1" steel strap with minimum 3/8" hardware. Must be covered in hatchback in a metal case.
Tires
1. DOT tire with a maximum cross section or 195mm and aspect ratio of 70, 75, 78 only (i.e. P19575R14).
2. Maximum rim diameter 15"
3. Same size and profile on all 4 corners.
Safety
1. Helmet must meet minimum DOT standard, suggested Snell approved.
2. Gloves and long sleeves required.
3. You may run a roll bar. Suggested - A single hoop roll bar with 2 angle bars constructed of 1 3/4" x 0.095 dia. tube must be welded or bolted with minimum 4" x 4" x 1/8" sandwich plates to the car. Hoop must be full width of car.
4. Fire extinguisher required. 2 lb. BC rated mounted in quick release bracket within reach of driver.
5. Window nets and racing seatbelts are recommended.
Numbers
1. Minimum 18" high numbers in contrasting color on both doors and roof.
2. 6" number on upper right corner of windshield and on back of trunk - right side above tail light.
3. NO spray painted numbers. Cars with non-legible numbers will not be scored.
General
1. All cars are subject to a minimum specification inspection at any time. It is the responsibility of the driver to prepare their car FREE of defects and in safe racing condition.
2. Owner's phone # must be on roof.0 -
GRD....don't wait another 2 years to get the son started. Five years old is the magic age nowadays.
I've been involved with karting since 1979, dirt and asphalt. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Karting is a great family sport, as long as you keep it fun!
Here's some links for you to check out.
http://www.4cycle.com/
http://www.possumkingdomspeedway.com/
http://www.worldkarting.com/
http://www.lowcountrykartway.net/
Just a few "bigshots" that were karting champions:
Jerry Nadeau...... Dale Jr.(Kelley was a much better driver)
Danica Patrick.... Marco Andretti
Brian Vickers..... Richie Hearn
Jamie McMurray.... Scott Goodyear
Jeff Gordon....... Lake Speed (only American to ever win World Championship)
Tony Stewart......Kevin Harvick
Martin Truex......Elliot Sadler0 -
Wait till after the racing season ends... It will be possible to buy a car, turnkey or not a lot less than during the season. One good place is to hit up alot of local car salvage/parts yards. Alot of them know racers and quite a few race their own. 0 -
when racing turns techno, fun disappears.
when techno takes over, you force yourself to have fun to justify doing it. thats the trap in any sport or hobby.[;)]0 -
quote:Originally posted by strokn47265
Wait till after the racing season ends... It will be possible to buy a car, turnkey or not a lot less than during the season. One good place is to hit up alot of local car salvage/parts yards. Alot of them know racers and quite a few race their own.
You beat me too it. Used race cars are usually plentifull0 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
quote:Originally posted by strokn47265
Wait till after the racing season ends... It will be possible to buy a car, turnkey or not a lot less than during the season. One good place is to hit up alot of local car salvage/parts yards. Alot of them know racers and quite a few race their own.
You beat me too it. Used race cars are usually plentifull
I kinda thought that way myself. I am not in a hurry and figured I would not get in untill next year anyway.0 -
I found a good one for sale!
It was the 2005 points champion at its track in GA, and is currently race ready!
Asking price is $28000 -
Ask them what they want for the trailer also and all spare parts. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
Ask them what they want for the trailer also and all spare parts.
Ad says extra parts included.
I will ask about the trailer also. But I was thinking more about a sloped back truck to haul it with as I know where one is for sale.0
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