Question for mechanics
Engine light came on in my 2001 Ford F-150 w/4.6 Triton. Coded for EGR. Took EGR off and cleaned it. Cleared code and all is well. Almost.
Now when RPMS drop to idle, such as when slowing to and coming to a stop. Get a strange humming noise. Sometimes only last a few seconds. Sometimes lasts as long as sitting at idle. Always quits as soon as RPMS are increased. Seems to be coming from somewhere on driver side of engine. Has not tripped engine light. Engines seems to run fine. Any ideas what it might be?
Now when RPMS drop to idle, such as when slowing to and coming to a stop. Get a strange humming noise. Sometimes only last a few seconds. Sometimes lasts as long as sitting at idle. Always quits as soon as RPMS are increased. Seems to be coming from somewhere on driver side of engine. Has not tripped engine light. Engines seems to run fine. Any ideas what it might be?
0
-
Wife came home and said her car was "acting up." Went out to look and have her give me a run down. The power drivers seat won't move, the power door locks quit (won't lock or unlock with the key chain thing-a-ma-jig either), power windows won't move, ABS light and the Air Bag light both stay on. Checked for a blown fuse...nothing. Looked in the "Power Distribution Box" under the hood. Fuses for ABS and air bags were good and seated OK. The connections on the battery were pretty corroded, so pulled them off and cleaned them. After that, the windows work, but nothing else. I am going to take it to AutoZone and have them check the battery and alternator, but outside of that, I am clueless on electionics. Where else should I look?? Thanks.
BTW....2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. 3.3 flex-fuel engine.0 -
We have a 94 crown vic with the 4.6 engine.
At speeds of 45 mph and higher, the car jerks or misses.
I took it in for repair and had it analyzed. They even checked the exhaust but nothing was found to cause this problem. The car was tuned about 5000 miles ago. Can anyone give me an idea as to what is going on? i thought it was the EGR valve but it checked out O.K.
Where there is no vision,the people perish!0 -
I hate electrical problems, but I have one now. 1997 Ford F-150, 4.6 engine. During the last cold snap I went out to start it and the battery was dead. Ok, no big deal. The battery was old so I replaced it with a new one yesterday. Put he new battery in and it started right up and registered a normal charge rate. This morning I went to start it and the battery was dead. Obviously there is a drain on the battery when the ignition is off. I did notice that when I hooked up the cables that there was a spark. That should have been my first clue. It did seem to have an "electrical smell" when I drove it yesterday. Maybe a hot wire somewhere? The cruise control has recently quit. Where is a good place to start? Thanks for any help.
Tom0 -
I'm at my wits end with this.
I have a 93 Chevy 1500 Z-71 4x4 regular cab, short box, 350 V8, AT, PS, CC, A/C, PB.
About 18 months ago it started shaking at about 45-50 mph. Didn't matter if I was accelerating, decelerating or cruising at that speed, it still shook. Took it to 3 different shops since. I've spent over $1500 on this with no results. Don't ask why I spent $1500, it's a very long complicated story. Maybe I'll tell ya some day. [;)][V]
Anyways, the following has been checked and found to be good or replaced with new.
Tie-rod ends (new)
A-arm bushings (good)
Upper and Lower Ball Joints (good)
Pitman arm (new)
Drag Link (new)
Center Link (?)
Steering column (good)
Steering gearbox (new)
Brake rotors have been turned and new brake pads installed.
Even took it to a quality frame and alignment shop. The alignment is right on the money and the frame isn't bent.
About the only thing that hasn't been replaced are the shocks. I'll do that when I return home next week. We put new tires, 265/75R16 (rims cleaned, tires balanced), on it yesterday. There is no excess dirt, mud built up inside the rims. I do have a set of aftermarket aluminum alloy wheels from American Racing on the truck also.
I still get the shake at about 45-50 mph, BUT it's not near as severe as it was. It's more like a shimmy now. Still bothersome.
Do these trucks with IFS need any kind of steering stabilizer shock like the older Chevy's had?
Any other things I need to check?[B)][B)][B)]0 -
I need a new A/C compressor on my truck. I would like to do it myself. I've got everything I need except a vacuum pump.
Looking on fleabay I found this....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R134A-AC-AIR-CONDITIONING-AIR-VACUUM-PUMP-A-C-TOOL-AUTO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34999QQihZ014QQitemZ330118085351QQrdZ1
Do these work? Or should spend the extra cash on this type...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FJC-4-CFM-Vacuum-Pump-HV-AC-R12-R134-Model-6910_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63700QQihZ011QQitemZ320111144412QQrdZ10 -
The second is a "real" vacuum pump,......the first is a joke! Remember the old saying,........you get what you pay for! If you want to really evacuate the system, only the second will do the job, and that is after letting it run for a decent period of time. 0 -
Why not just rent one at the local tool rental. The last one I rented was $25.00 deposit and they took the rental out of that. It only ended up cost me $15.00[:D] 0 -
Yes,........rent one, unless you plan on going into the biz! 0 -
Hmmmm.....didnt think about renting one...THANKS!!!
I'll check Autozone tommorrow.0 -
Check with your FLAPS where you bought all the other stuff - a few around me offer loaners or rentals (w/ deposit) for those "need it one time for this one task every 60k miles" type of tools... 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
10 comments