I need a favor
Could someone who has the metal swing targets tell me how thick the metal is?
My local FFL wants me to look into makeing some for his shop to place for sale. Just trying to figure out if it would be cost effective to make them or if he is better off buying them.
I have one for .22's but I need metal thickness for large caliber handguns and possibly rifles.
Thanks!
My local FFL wants me to look into makeing some for his shop to place for sale. Just trying to figure out if it would be cost effective to make them or if he is better off buying them.
I have one for .22's but I need metal thickness for large caliber handguns and possibly rifles.
Thanks!
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More Important then the thickness is what steel you use. If you use mild steel at 1/2" thick the high powered rifles blow craters in it. It has to be Hard Steel for the High Power rifles. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by MVP
More Important then the thickness is what steel you use. If you use mild steel at 1/2" thick the high powered rifles blow craters in it. It has to be Hard Steel for the High Power rifles.
I figured that. I was going to price steel at the scrap yard after I knew about what thickness to get. I'm think they will charge by the pound there, but I'm not sure.0 -
1/2 thick is usually substantial for handguns, and it will absorb some rifle rounds as well. But 223 and a few others will go right thru it!!!
We use a 1 inch thick piece of grader scraper blade, for our big clangers. It holds up extremly well!!!0 -
Thanks, that gives me a starting point.
Who knows, if this pans out maybe I'll list some here on GB to see how they do.0 -
Well don't shoot FMJ through it cause thats what it will do with .308 anyway. I saw a guy at the range blow through a peice of I beam and dented the other side. Must have been nearly 3/4 thick steel. 0 -
Sounds like a great excuse to do some "research"! 0 -
Here's a website from a company located near me. They give some information about various types of targets, and the owner is very helpful if you wish to contact him in person or over the net.
I have several of his, and they vary in thickness and type of steel depending on the application. His largest will stand AP 30-06 and I have examined one he has shot many times.
Most are 3/8 or 1/2, but use different grades of steel.
http://www.rztargets.com/0 -
You shot the swing target I have. Can use it for up to .44 mag. I gave $20 bucks for it at a gunshow. 0 -
Git R Done
Go to this link and click on their "Truth about Steel" Button.
Good Information.
http://www.actiontarget.com/_law/reactive_steel/0 -
quote:Originally posted by MVP
Git R Done
Go to this link and click on their "Truth about Steel" Button.
Good Information.
http://www.actiontarget.com/_law/reactive_steel/
You cant handle the truth!...[:D]0 -
try looking in your area for old track segments off heavy eguipment highlifts or dozers work well. aint nothing harder and they will usually give them to you for the askin. just call a excavating contractor. 0 -
I used "railroad plates," those that are spiked to the ties. Cut them into different shapes and sizes, suspended them between two T-posts with chains, and set at ranges 50 yds to 200 yds for practice with hunting revolvers and contenders (including 375 JDJ). The plates held up well. When someone hit a chain, the chain often broke. Provided a lot of fun for us. 0 -
Looks like as long as I get a brinell of 500 or better I should be fine with 1/2 thick.
Can anyone tell me if a scrap yard will be able to rate a brinell number on there metals?0 -
quote:Originally posted by git_r_done
Looks like as long as I get a brinell of 500 or better I should be fine with 1/2 thick.
Can anyone tell me if a scrap yard will be able to rate a brinell number on there metals?
brinell 500 what? You are missing either at 500kg or 3000kg. If its 500 at 3000kg, that is equal to about 50Rc, rockwell is usually the industry standard for hardness testing in the metal industry.
Here are the things I would consider in designing these.
First I would get rid of the idea of using scrap metal, who knows what the metal is without acid testing it.
-thickness of the metal
-how am I going to make the shape, options here are (machined, formed, semi machined, powder metal, stamped)
-I would get a basic shape of what I want to make (haha, probably round)
-due to having to weld a tube on to it, I need to pick a metal that welds easy
-I would research the methods of making these pieces. For 1/2 pieces, the easiest and cheapest method would be semi machined, what I am calling semi machined is either CNC plasma cut, oxy cut or water jet cut
-Once I found out what method would be cheaper, I would then with the help of the engineer at the place that will do the machining work, select a material that will cut well and weld well. Materials that come to mind off the top of my head are 1018 or any other 1000 series carbon steel I might even consider doing something without welding and using a metal such as 41L40 or an S type metal with excellent toughness. 41L40 or other similar 4000 series metals can be hardened well past 50Rc. S type metals are capable of reaching 55Rc and above, but both metals have poor welding capability. 1000 series metals, 1018 being the cheapest and easiest to purchase, will weld well and top out some where in the 30-40 range Rc. Another consideration would be to cast the pieces using Cast iron and then hardened. 30-50 series cast irons can be heat treated to around 20-30 Rc. and will have a decent enough toughness at a thicker piece. Cast iron is relatively cheap compared to some other metals. One website that can help you out is www.matweb.com the website is amazingly free to use and search all most every material that any large to medium manufacturer makes.
Just to put something in perspective, I have some pieces that are made of 12L14 carbon steel that are water jet cut and is 1/8 inch thick. Total metal weight is about 3.5 pounds, it cost me 4.00 to have the pieces shipped via carrier from wisconsin. My orders are usually 400 pieces. Just to give you an idea of what other people will charge. Programing charge for those pieces was about $70, simple piece, yours would be simpler.
I would say that if you want to make them as a business and sell them else where besides the shop, then yes it could be very cost effective for him. If he just wants to just sell them in his shop, then it would never be cost effective. FYI, 1018 steel price is running about 1.25 right now depending on the distributor.
Another thing to take into consideration with the metal is that hardness is not always what you want. Hardness can also cause brittleness which would be very bad for your application. You want something that is hard, but yet very tough. Some metals are not very tough at 50Rc hardness. If it was me, I would buy a piece of 4140 from mcmaster carr and see how tough it is, 4140 non hardened will offer decent toughness, but yet is still in the 20Rc range in its annealed state.0 -
I know this is redneck but we use harrow disc. They are 1/4 inch thick and we bolt three together. It will stop everything but big magnums at 100 yards. The do dent up pretty bad but there ought to be a great supply of them at a junkyard or farmer for cheap money. 0 -
I will take a look around tomorrow and see what we have. I think we might have some 3/4" Corten that will work great. I can cut any shape you wish on the pantograph and weld on some hooks or rings.
BTW old manhole covers work great to.0 -
AR Plate? 0
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