F150 "chunk" problem
I have a 95 f-150 and the rear end whines like the devil, and has for about 200k miles. However, I have about had it!! I have been told that it is just a simple matter of swamping out the "chunk? for a good one. OK, that is not a problem until replacement times comes. What do I swap it out with? Buddy said it can be anything since it will always be a highway truck. Do any of you have anmy suggestions of what to replace it with or even how to replace it ? Any and all suggestiopns apppreciated. Tom
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WTH is a "chunk"???? I've been working on vehicles long enough to know that there's no such thing as a "chunk" on an F150. 0 -
By "chunk" I'm taking that you mean the rear dif. In that case, if its a 4x4, you need to put in what you pulled out. The work is fairly straight forward, just buy a Haynes manual for it, the procedure is very well written in that manual. 0 -
If it is a 95' there will be no "chunk" aka: 3rd member. It will be an 8.8" ringgear. You will have to change the entire axel housing assembly, (recommended if you are not familiar with how to set up a rear end), or most likely will need new pinion bearings which will require a preload setup. If the rear end has been whining for a while there may be gear damage which will require complete setup. Best bet: used rear end assembly from salvage yard. If 4x4 must be exactlly same gear ratio, if not stay as close as possible. 0 -
quote:Zulu7
Advanced Member
USA
5128 Posts
Posted - 04/02/2007 : 10:29:10 PM
WTH is a "chunk"???? I've been working on vehicles long enough to know that there's no such thing as a "chunk" on an F150.
It's right next to the blinker fluid.[:D]0 -
You'll find it between the shocks that your bro fixed for you, you old expert mechanic you. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Zulu7
WTH is a "chunk"???? I've been working on vehicles long enough to know that there's no such thing as a "chunk" on an F150.
I guess all those old guys did not know what they were talking about. Should have called you, but then you were not even born yet! Don0 -
with 200K have you ever changed the oil back there. If not your probably going to have to do a rebuild. Might be such a thing there is no gear fluid left. 95 has a carrier assembly and the axles i believe can stay under the truck and you can pull the carrier assembly. you will need to pull the half shafts and then the carrier is bolted in. 0 -
200k? Get a new Truck!
JM[:0]0 -
Let me do it!
Almost every frickn 8.8" & 8.25" Ford ring & pinion rearend I have done howels to beat the band.
Almost as bad as a cops siren, but louder!!!
9 inchers I can do all day and are as quite as a church mouse.0 -
I had the same problem in a high milage F-150. Went to a junk yard and swapped it out with a rear end that had lesser miles. Risky? Yes, but I saved about $1800.
Trinity +++0 -
Not sure what diameter of the differential is on my '86 F350, but either I'm deaf or it is still quiet at about 80K. Odometer is off due to using the factory odometer setup with 37" tires. 0 -
You are better of swapping the entire Ford "Chunk" out on a Dodge Truck...[;)] 0 -
quote:200k? Get a new Truck!
Nah, it just got broken in[:D]0 -
quote:Originally posted by Mk 19
quote:200k? Get a new Truck!
Nah, it just got broken [:D]
....bout right...and probably has been since day one.0 -
quote:quote:
Originally posted by Mk 19
quote:
200k? Get a new Truck!
Nah, it just got broken
....bout right...and probably has been since day one.
Maybe your right, after all it is a FORD0 -
quote:You are better of swapping the entire Ford "Chunk" out on a Dodge Truck...
Then he can replace trannies at a cost of $2K and front ends at a cost of $1500 and deduct 5MPG from whatever gas milage he is already getting[:D][:D]
Redneck, he has already been down the Dodge truck road and dropped that sucker like a hot potato[:D][:D]0 -
quote:Originally posted by Pa Redneck
quote:You are better of swapping the entire Ford "Chunk" out on a Dodge Truck...
Then he can replace trannies at a cost of $2K and front ends at a cost of $1500 and deduct 5MPG from whatever gas milage he is already getting[:D][:D]
Redneck, he has already been down the Dodge truck road and dropped that sucker like a hot potato[:D][:D]
You just don't know what you are missing! Someone swapped out a Dodge body and put it on a Ford frame for your last truck...they sure did pull the wool over your eyes![;)][}:)][:D]0 -
quote:Originally posted by bgjohn
200k? Get a new Truck!
JM[:0]
No doubt, there can't be much left of it by now, Beside the "chunk" has to be replaced. Might as well buy a newer truck with a newer "Chunk" then you'll have a newer truck as well as a newer "chunk" [;)]
Good luck!0 -
quote:Originally posted by clays
If it is a 95' there will be no "chunk" aka: 3rd member. It will be an 8.8" ringgear. You will have to change the entire axel housing assembly, (recommended if you are not familiar with how to set up a rear end), or most likely will need new pinion bearings which will require a preload setup. If the rear end has been whining for a while there may be gear damage which will require complete setup. Best bet: used rear end assembly from salvage yard. If 4x4 must be exactlly same gear ratio, if not stay as close as possible.
yep,+1 if you measure the diff from drum to drum and also measure the donor diff, if its a 8.8 they are also found in ford explorers and merc mountaineers,then you could get disc brakes on the rear[:p] for the same money but im not sure about the bolt pattern for the wheels,anyone care to comment on that0 -
I bought the truck used with 50K on it. It was howling then but maybe I was just hard of hearing. I may drive to Texas in it and it will be just too long a trip to put up with the noise. I have about maxed out on the radio volume.
My buddy said it would be a simple matter to exchange the whole "chunk" as a unit from a junk yard. My question is what can I replace it with? Only a 95 F150? or are there several models what will work. It is 2WD so no gears to match as with 4WD. I have checked fluid and only a few ounces low and filled with Lucas. Didn't change whine at all.
Truck runs great and I am going to keep it, just looking for a cheap repair. Tom
PS; Correction on mileage. It has 260K on it. T0 -
CK THE RATIO AND GO TO SALVAGE YARD, IF IT IS A 95 IT PROBABLY HAS A
3.73 IF YOU CAN FIND A 3.53 OR 3.55 YOU WILL GET BETTER MILLAGE.
I THINK ANY F150 REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY WILL FIT, THE BOYS AT THE SALVAGE YARD WILL KNOW, CHANGE THE AXLE AND YOU WON'T HAVE NEAR THE WORK.
WHEN DODGE DECIDES TO STAY IN THE TRUCK BUS. MAYBE THEY CAN BUILD
SOME KIND OF RECORD TO LOOK AT (FORD MAN)0 -
REX666, when you say rear axle assembly, are you talking about the whole rear end or just the differential? I was hoping to just change out the differential, ie ring,pinyon gear and what else comnes with those two. I'm not a mechanic, nor do I play one on TV so I have to get my info from you experts here, and thanks, Tom 0 -
quote:Originally posted by LOKO383
quote:Originally posted by clays
If it is a 95' there will be no "chunk" aka: 3rd member. It will be an 8.8" ringgear. You will have to change the entire axel housing assembly, (recommended if you are not familiar with how to set up a rear end), or most likely will need new pinion bearings which will require a preload setup. If the rear end has been whining for a while there may be gear damage which will require complete setup. Best bet: used rear end assembly from salvage yard. If 4x4 must be exactlly same gear ratio, if not stay as close as possible.
yep,+1 if you measure the diff from drum to drum and also measure the donor diff, if its a 8.8 they are also found in ford explorers and merc mountaineers,then you could get disc brakes on the rear[:p] for the same money but im not sure about the bolt pattern for the wheels,anyone care to comment on that
The Explorer axle won't fit, about 2 feet two narrow. Also the bolt pattern on the Explorer is 5 on 4.5, the 150 has 5 on 5.5.0 -
My old El Camino had a whine in the rear end for years.I always kept up maintaince so I knew the oil level was good.It had a leak in the gasket and when I replaced the gasket I spent a few more dollars and repaced the oil with synthetic.No more whine. 0 -
Put a handful of sawdust in with the fluid [:o)] 0 -
quote:Originally posted by jimdeere
Put a handful of sawdust in with the fluid [:o)]
Yep, or stuff a bananna peel in there.0 -
quote:Originally posted by tccox
REX666, when you say rear axle assembly, are you talking about the whole rear end or just the differential? I was hoping to just change out the differential, ie ring,pinyon gear and what else comnes with those two. I'm not a mechanic, nor do I play one on TV so I have to get my info from you experts here, and thanks, Tom
It's actually easier to replace the entire rear axle. Put her on jackstands, drop the rear u-joint, remove the brake lines from the cylinders and remove the u-bolts that hold it to the springs. Then if needed put all the brake parts from the old axle on the replacement, that is if it didn't comewith decent brakes on it.
btw; It's always a good idea to replace the u-bolts with new ones. Auto parts store should have/be able to get them.0 -
Oh, sorry! I thought you had a rust problem.
My bad!0 -
Ear Plugs= quickest and cheapest fix.[:D] 0 -
quote:Originally posted by sarge_3ad
Ear Plugs= quickest and cheapest fix.[:D]
Leave it to a 45Bang to come up with the easiest fix.0
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