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question for car techs....

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11 comments

  • idsman75
    I'm no car tech but it sounds like an electrical problem. You're giving the truck a little more "juice" when you're stepping on the accelerator. For example, my headlights dim ever so slightly if I'm parked and have a ton of electrical things going at full blast (i.e. heater blower, stereo, rear defrost, etc). This doesn't happen when I'm generating more power flying down the interstate as opposed to what I'm generating at idle.
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  • KEVD18
    either a stuck sensor in the tank or a bad sending unit. my 01 blazer does it too. the dealership said "we cant replicate the problem, you'd have to pay the full diagnostic fee" at something like 90/hr. i told them to go screw themselves and just deal with the freaky guage.
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  • TexasVet
    Sounds like there's a short in the fuel sending unit -- or a bad ground. In any event, it would involve running the truck until it's almost out of fuel, pull the tank and repair or replace the sending unit. Fords have the sending unit and fuel pump made together as a module.
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  • rogue_rob
    I drive a 2000 silverado too.

    It's the fuel sending unit. They go bad on these trucks a lot. I've been lucky enough not to have been hit by this one yet.

    Before you replace the fuel sending unit, try cleaning out the tank with a product GM sells called Fuel System Treatment Plus (PN#88861011). It may or may not work (it's hit or miss). If that don't work then you'll probably end up having to replace the sending unit.

    I heard it was caused by excess sulpher in the fuel. You're not in Canada are you? Those trucks get this problem a lot.
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  • select-fire
    My 01 Silverado 2500HD did the same thing. Dealer said the sending unit replacement was something like $400 bucks to change out. I drove it on the trip odometer between fill ups.
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  • Tailgunner1954
    Instrument voltage regulator (in the dash, NOT the one for the alternator), might be going bad or something else might be overloading it.
    Dash or other ground point loose of corroded (voltage runs from the switch to the instrument regulator to the gauge and than back to the variable resister winding and finally to ground through the wiper contact on the moving arm).
    Might want to take a look at your battery (it's getting up in age) and possibly have the alternator output checked both after running and after a hard draw (simulated cold start).
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  • AZ9J
    Most likely the sending unit in the tank. Check Service Bulletins, I think they have an improved connector for the unit. Had a lot of those gone bad
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  • idsman75
    I'm trying to find my favorite TSB website but can't remember the name. Anyone got one handy?
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  • TexasVet
    I had a sender go bad on a Ford Ranger a few years back, bought a fuel pump/sender from O'Reilly for $150.00. Ran the truck nearly dry on gas -- in fact it started sputtering -- dropped the tank with my floor jack, and pulled the sender/pump out. It had a connector that was easily visible as being bad, I replaced it -- checked it with a volt ohm meter and it worked. I borrowed the new gasket from the new fuel pump, reinstalled it and it worked great. Stopped by another auto parts store and got a fuel pump gasket, put it back in the fuel pump/sender box, and returned it to O'Reilly, told them I found a loose connector and didn't use it - got a refund. Ended up fixing it for less than $5.00.
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  • select-fire
    Well when you disconnect the battery make sure you have the code for the stereo. I had to take mine to the dealer to get it to come back on. Lucky, the service tech guy didn't charge me anything after he made a phone call to get the code.
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  • dcloco
    Either the ground on the fuel gauge or the sending unit.

    If it is the sending unit, you will be walking.

    Of note, if you walk out and it won't start, this will work one or two times - bang on the fuel tank - HARD. Start the vehicle and drive it to where you WANT to fix it.
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