$30 Tactical Flashlight
Found this on another forum and thought it was cool:
With Christmas around the corner, here's a DIY project you can assemble for gifts or stockings stuffers -- brought to you now, so you will have time to assemble them before time to begin the Christmas shopping.
Tactical flashlights are those high intensity illuminating lights used by the military and law enforcement to quickly identify threats and targets in dimly lit areas. They sell upwards to $150+ but here's one you can build for $15 or less.
To assemble yours or those you'd like for gifts, you will need:
1 RayOVac "Industrial" flashlight
1 KPR118, 7.2-volt, incandescent, flashlight bulb
3 CR123A lithium photo flash batteries
1 4-inch long piece of 3/4-inch, cold water, schedule 40 PVC
1 3/4-inch long #8 bolt
4 #8 by 1-inch diameter fender washers (hardware store in electrical dept)
4 #8 hex nuts
E6000 glue
Why use these components?
The flashlight body:
This particular flashlight body is important because it has a "prismatic" reflector. This is the key element to eliminating the artifacts from the projected beam. Have you ever noticed that when you project a smooth reflectored beam onto a wall you see a dark spot in the middle along with shadows and streaks in the beam? What you are seeing is the magnified and projected inner guts of the bulb itself. These "impurities" in the light beam are called artifacts.
The "prisms' in the reflector on this model of RayOVac flashlight blend the bulb reflections together and average out the light with the dark. The result is you see only a pure beam with a slight halo. Even if you don't do anything to this flashlight, it will give you a much nicer projected beam than a smooth reflector will. I also like this body because it is bright yellow (easy to find) and it is very light weight. And I like it because it has room in the head behind the reflector to do other mods later.
The bulb:
If you try to run 9 volts through a 3-volt flashlight bulb, it will blow before you can see it. It's hard to find a 9-volt bulb, but from Radio Shack pick up a pair of KPR118 bulbs. Buying two, allows you to have a spare.
The batteries:
These are 3.0 volts each and last a long time. When you use three in series, you get 9 volts in a smaller and MUCH lighter package than D-cells. These are the heart of the flashlight. They might be hard to find locally, so buying them online is the best best.
The PVC pipe:
This is needed to keep the batteries in the center of the flashlight body. The white plastic pipe, normally used for cold water use fits perfectly inside the D-cell flashlight and the batteries fit nicely inside the pipe.
The bolt, washers, and nuts:
Notice that the three CR123A batteries are about 3/4 inch shorter than the two D-cells. The spacer made from these parts makes up that difference.
The Glue:
E6000 is a hobby glue, Michael's and Hobby Lobby sell it. A hobby shop that sells DIY artificial flowers making kits should have this glue. You could use caulk, Gorilla Glue, or Elmers white glue but Elmers is generally for short term use.
Now, with all that out of the way, lets get down to the assembly.
Unscrew the head of the flashlight. Remove the original flashlight bulb (saving it for other projects), and install the Radio Shack KPR118 bulb. Then, insert the spare bulb in the holder. And reassemble the flashlight head.
Unscrew the end of the flashlight. Remove the batteries and the coiled spring. Cut the plastic pipe to 4 inches long. If making numerous flashlights, a plastic pipe cutting tool (looking like garden clippers) will speed the effort. If you want to make a lot of these, invest in a pipe cutting tool. It's faster than using a hacksaw and makes a clean cut.
Next, place one fender washer against the head of the bolt and insert into the coiled spring. Follow the washer with a nut and tighten it firmly. Run another washer and another nut. Continue with washers and nuts until you are out of room on the bolt. This washer-nut assembly or spacer component fills the gap between the shorter batteries and inside space of the flashlight body. It provides the electrical connection for the positive side of the batteries.
Glue the spacer to one end of the PVC pipe. This spacer needs to be glued in place to the pipe so it remains centered inside the body. Let the glue dry for a day before continuing the assembly.
When that task is complete, you are ready to put it all together.
Drop the battery holder inside with the spacer first. Drop the batteries in, positive end first. Screw the end back on the flashlight.
USING THE TACTICAL LIGHT
The first thing you'll notice is how light weight the flashlight is. Next you'll notice the brightness of the beam. You easily can light up the house across the street on a dark night. One of the interesting things about these batteries is that they lose a little bit of power after an hour, and then they hold their brightness for at least another couple hours before suddenly going dim and out.
If you're worried about the light heating up, maybe causing the plastic to soften, due to the higher voltage, I left it on for 45 minutes without noticing any increase in temperature.
SAFETY WARNING: Don't look into the beam in the dark and don't shine it in someone's face unless you intend to hurt or temporarily blind them. In fact when you shine this straight down at a black street and look directly at the bright spot, you may notice your own eyes starting to throb in the intense light.
GENERAL COMMENTS:
I hope you enjoy your new flashlight. It'll light up even the darkest of places, and will do so for far less money than any of those more expensive tactical lights.
You might want to make on for yourself to see just how easy it is to gerrymander an inexpensive flashlight into a high intensity light. Then, when stores start putting out their Christmas merchandise, this is the time you can get pretty good deals on flashlights. And if you're enterprising enough, buy several, customized them, and give them to friends as presents.
TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS
* - If when you turn on the flashlight and it does not work, following this checklist:#1 - Open the battery compartment and make sure the batteries are installed (these batteries are so light you can't always tell when they are installed). While you have the back off, drop the entire battery holder out and make sure the spacer is connected to the pipe. Make sure the batteries are all facing the right direction (positive end in first). When you reinstall the batteries make sure the spring is aligned with the bottom of the batteries as you tighten the back.
* #2 - If it is still not working, try a different bulb. Make sure the bulb is the KPR118 model. Lower voltage bulbs are instantaneous flash bulbs with this much battery power.
* #3 - If it is still not working, try fresh batteries.
* #4 - If it is still not working, you probably have a defective flashlight body
With Christmas around the corner, here's a DIY project you can assemble for gifts or stockings stuffers -- brought to you now, so you will have time to assemble them before time to begin the Christmas shopping.
Tactical flashlights are those high intensity illuminating lights used by the military and law enforcement to quickly identify threats and targets in dimly lit areas. They sell upwards to $150+ but here's one you can build for $15 or less.
To assemble yours or those you'd like for gifts, you will need:
1 RayOVac "Industrial" flashlight
1 KPR118, 7.2-volt, incandescent, flashlight bulb
3 CR123A lithium photo flash batteries
1 4-inch long piece of 3/4-inch, cold water, schedule 40 PVC
1 3/4-inch long #8 bolt
4 #8 by 1-inch diameter fender washers (hardware store in electrical dept)
4 #8 hex nuts
E6000 glue
Why use these components?
The flashlight body:
This particular flashlight body is important because it has a "prismatic" reflector. This is the key element to eliminating the artifacts from the projected beam. Have you ever noticed that when you project a smooth reflectored beam onto a wall you see a dark spot in the middle along with shadows and streaks in the beam? What you are seeing is the magnified and projected inner guts of the bulb itself. These "impurities" in the light beam are called artifacts.
The "prisms' in the reflector on this model of RayOVac flashlight blend the bulb reflections together and average out the light with the dark. The result is you see only a pure beam with a slight halo. Even if you don't do anything to this flashlight, it will give you a much nicer projected beam than a smooth reflector will. I also like this body because it is bright yellow (easy to find) and it is very light weight. And I like it because it has room in the head behind the reflector to do other mods later.
The bulb:
If you try to run 9 volts through a 3-volt flashlight bulb, it will blow before you can see it. It's hard to find a 9-volt bulb, but from Radio Shack pick up a pair of KPR118 bulbs. Buying two, allows you to have a spare.
The batteries:
These are 3.0 volts each and last a long time. When you use three in series, you get 9 volts in a smaller and MUCH lighter package than D-cells. These are the heart of the flashlight. They might be hard to find locally, so buying them online is the best best.
The PVC pipe:
This is needed to keep the batteries in the center of the flashlight body. The white plastic pipe, normally used for cold water use fits perfectly inside the D-cell flashlight and the batteries fit nicely inside the pipe.
The bolt, washers, and nuts:
Notice that the three CR123A batteries are about 3/4 inch shorter than the two D-cells. The spacer made from these parts makes up that difference.
The Glue:
E6000 is a hobby glue, Michael's and Hobby Lobby sell it. A hobby shop that sells DIY artificial flowers making kits should have this glue. You could use caulk, Gorilla Glue, or Elmers white glue but Elmers is generally for short term use.
Now, with all that out of the way, lets get down to the assembly.
Unscrew the head of the flashlight. Remove the original flashlight bulb (saving it for other projects), and install the Radio Shack KPR118 bulb. Then, insert the spare bulb in the holder. And reassemble the flashlight head.
Unscrew the end of the flashlight. Remove the batteries and the coiled spring. Cut the plastic pipe to 4 inches long. If making numerous flashlights, a plastic pipe cutting tool (looking like garden clippers) will speed the effort. If you want to make a lot of these, invest in a pipe cutting tool. It's faster than using a hacksaw and makes a clean cut.
Next, place one fender washer against the head of the bolt and insert into the coiled spring. Follow the washer with a nut and tighten it firmly. Run another washer and another nut. Continue with washers and nuts until you are out of room on the bolt. This washer-nut assembly or spacer component fills the gap between the shorter batteries and inside space of the flashlight body. It provides the electrical connection for the positive side of the batteries.
Glue the spacer to one end of the PVC pipe. This spacer needs to be glued in place to the pipe so it remains centered inside the body. Let the glue dry for a day before continuing the assembly.
When that task is complete, you are ready to put it all together.
Drop the battery holder inside with the spacer first. Drop the batteries in, positive end first. Screw the end back on the flashlight.
USING THE TACTICAL LIGHT
The first thing you'll notice is how light weight the flashlight is. Next you'll notice the brightness of the beam. You easily can light up the house across the street on a dark night. One of the interesting things about these batteries is that they lose a little bit of power after an hour, and then they hold their brightness for at least another couple hours before suddenly going dim and out.
If you're worried about the light heating up, maybe causing the plastic to soften, due to the higher voltage, I left it on for 45 minutes without noticing any increase in temperature.
SAFETY WARNING: Don't look into the beam in the dark and don't shine it in someone's face unless you intend to hurt or temporarily blind them. In fact when you shine this straight down at a black street and look directly at the bright spot, you may notice your own eyes starting to throb in the intense light.
GENERAL COMMENTS:
I hope you enjoy your new flashlight. It'll light up even the darkest of places, and will do so for far less money than any of those more expensive tactical lights.
You might want to make on for yourself to see just how easy it is to gerrymander an inexpensive flashlight into a high intensity light. Then, when stores start putting out their Christmas merchandise, this is the time you can get pretty good deals on flashlights. And if you're enterprising enough, buy several, customized them, and give them to friends as presents.
TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS
* - If when you turn on the flashlight and it does not work, following this checklist:#1 - Open the battery compartment and make sure the batteries are installed (these batteries are so light you can't always tell when they are installed). While you have the back off, drop the entire battery holder out and make sure the spacer is connected to the pipe. Make sure the batteries are all facing the right direction (positive end in first). When you reinstall the batteries make sure the spring is aligned with the bottom of the batteries as you tighten the back.
* #2 - If it is still not working, try a different bulb. Make sure the bulb is the KPR118 model. Lower voltage bulbs are instantaneous flash bulbs with this much battery power.
* #3 - If it is still not working, try fresh batteries.
* #4 - If it is still not working, you probably have a defective flashlight body
0
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I've seen a similiar conversion for the 2 C cell Mag light. I did it to my light. It works great. Your conversion is even less expensive due to the type of flashlight used. Thanks for sharing. 0 -
Just exactly what makes it "Tactical"? Now that I think if it, what IS tactical? "Tactical flashlights are those high intensity illuminating lights used by the military and law enforcement to quickly identify threats and targets in dimly lit areas." Sounds like headlights would be "tactical", or a six-cell D-sized "greeting stick".
Methinks "Tactical" is a marketing gimmmick and it looks like it's working fine.
Clouder..0 -
Thanks! I just printed the pages out and will take them today to make my own!
THANK YOU!0 -
You know, that's interesting, and kinda cool...
But I'll keep my Surefire.[:D]0 -
One thing that they left out in their description of "tactical" is that LE or military flashlights are dang-near indestructable. That is why they have metal bodies and use Xenon bulbs. One good trip down the stairs will kill that thing.
Still a pretty good idea for a hunting flashlight though. Make it much easier to follow a blood trail.0 -
quote:Originally posted by HandgunHTR52
One thing that they left out in their description of "tactical" is that LE or military flashlights are dang-near indestructable. That is why they have metal bodies and use Xenon bulbs. One good trip down the stairs will kill that thing.
Still a pretty good idea for a hunting flashlight though. Make it much easier to follow a blood trail.
That's what I was thinking. Would be great for taking hunting, getting to your stand, tracking deer, etc. Looks like it would be nice and light weight too.
Ben0 -
I could use a couple for work. People always swipe the supplies from security because we have supplies. It is a vicious world where the guy who responds has nothing to work with because every other department has grabbed it. Fortunately I know the department to get my own supplies filled. Government buildings can be fun sometimes.
Same thing happened to a friend who works hospital security, there are supposed to be radios and lights stashed around the building for emergencies. Come time for a shutdown of power to change generators and all lights and radios are missing when security goes for them, found later in doctors offices.0 -
"Just exactly what makes it "Tactical"? Now that I think if it, what IS tactical? "Tactical flashlights are those high intensity illuminating lights used by the military and law enforcement to quickly identify threats and targets in dimly lit areas." Sounds like headlights would be "tactical", or a six-cell D-sized "greeting stick".
Methinks "Tactical" is a marketing gimmmick and it looks like it's working fine."
I could not agree with this more. Just look in the pages of some sporting goods catalogs everything is labeled tactical, and then the prices is tripled. I should market tactical toilet paper that comes in a camouflaged pattern, I would make millions off morons that buy anything that is "tactical".0 -
Gotta paint it black or camo for it to be "tactical."
Another requirement for the "tactical" label is that it has to cost 50% more than the same item in non-tactical trim.0 -
There is no such thing as a "tactical" flashlight[:(][:(][:(] 0 -
No - this light is actually an "assault, ninja, SWAT, sniper, covert" flashlight, but only if painted black.
Doug0 -
They are junk! I smashed one of those on my girlfriends head and the darn thing fell apart and went every where.[V] I now have a maglight.[B)][;)] 0 -
As is usual in any financial dealings with which I am associated, I've already blown the $15 dollar designation for the bloomin' tactical flashlight.
I began my debasement by tooling on down to Wal-Mart, and picking up the 'industrial' flashlight, then on over to Lowes for the batteries. I suspect, having gone through every flashlight bulb in both places, that the KPR118 bulbs are no closer than St. Louis, mite near 300 miles away.
Shucks, it was nearly 20 bucks just for batteries, and the flashlight? That thing was nearly seven dollars and it doesn't even look like the one in the photo. First, it has a sculpted appearance, with an additional ring on front that allows some minimal beam adjustment.
And the spring in the tailpiece is mighty small. Doubt you could get a screw, much less a bolt, in the thing a'tall....but there is a pretty cute little, poorly working carabiner on the back of the thing, allowing me to put my (by the time I get it built) 70 dollar (just guessing, but I'll bet that's pretty close. Trips to St. Louis are expensive) flashlight on my belt! Too Cool, huh?
Wish I'd gone to KFC instead....
Sahagan0 -
looks like something I will have to try.......... 0 -
Well, so far I'm going to have to call this myth....BUSTED! I've already spend $30 alone on 3 batteries. I don't know where you're finding lithium batteries for under $15, let alone the whole project for $15.
The flashlight was $5, the glue was $6, the nuts, bolts, and washers were $2, the PVC was $3, the two bulbs were $3, and the batteries were $30. So that puts me in the range of "I could have just bought a good 'tactical' flashlight with a warranty for just a few bucks more and not gotten glue on my fingers."
[:(!]0 -
Well, I finished mine too. And it is impressive! I looked directly into the light and saw stars (and superimposed images of the reflector) for several minutes.
I did alter mine somewhat. First, the batteries fit the PVC tubing too loosely. I had around the shop, a couple of sizes of that wire loom material that you use to wrap wiring and so forth on an auto engine. It's real flexible, and is split down one side so you can worm your wiring or whatever into it.
So I pushed and pulled until I had the three batteries inside a proper length of the wire loom, then pushed and pulled until I had that ensemble inside the PVC pipe. Same situation with the PVC pipe though. It fit the flashlight body too loosely. And lo and behold! I also had some wire loom that fit the outside of the PVC perfectly and also the inside of the flashlight. No amount of shaking or dropping will make anything inside move or loosen up at this point. It is one well-made flashlight. Changing batteries may take an extra minute or two, but shucks, who's gonna carelessly run the batteries down when they cost might near 20 bucks to replace?
Finally, instead of using the bolts/fender washer system, I just found a properly sized and just long enough compression spring in my tool box, and wound it on the original spring, and it was all good to go.
My final cost (+ or - a dollar or two).....Batteries, 3 @ 6.58 each at Lowes, for a total of just less than 20 bucks. Light bulbs at Radio Shack, $1.69 each. I got two, but don't have a place to put the spare. Just under four dollars. PVC, no cost since I had it on hand. Bolts and fender washers, zero, since I replaced them with a spring I had on hand. And finally, the flashlight cost less than seven dollars at Wal-Mart.
My total comes to somewhere between 28 and 30 bucks. I'll take that and not complain overmuch....It's bright, it's a 'sleeper' that is, it's much more of a light than it appears, and anytime I can successfully pull off a really simple job, I'm real happy and pleased as punch. You know, Pride of American craftsmanship and all that kind of stuff.
And oh yeah....THANKS! for posting this project. It's all good.
Sahagan0 -
Hmmm...well, Home Depot didn't have the batteries, so I bought them at Radio Shack (also the only place that had the bulbs). Guess I got screwed on the batteries.
I suppose you could still get away with building this thing for around $30, but no where close to $15.0 -
I get CR123's for less then $1.50 each all the time, you just have to order them online. Last ones I bought I got for $1 each but it was a 50 pack.
As for GOOD flash lights you dont need to spend lots of money check out these http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main/co_disp/displ/prrfnbr/878/sesent/00 . I see they are sneaking up in price but you can find them online for about $30. They are great lights, they are small, handy, as bright if not brighter then a 3 D maglight. I have some more expensive Surefires that I use at work and they are great, I have given several G2's as gifts as they are small enough to fit in purses, fanny pack, day bags, ect. Try getting your wife to put a 3 D maglight in her purse, not that I dont think some of the purses are big enough [}:)].
While this project is cool you will spend almost as much as a good small lite and still have a medium/large sized POS.0
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