Remington 742, 7400 or 750 Jamming FIX!
If your Remington 7400 or new 750 is jamming there is a very SIMPLE fix! The first thing you must determine is the type of jam you are experiencing. If your auto loader is NOT ejecting a spent round then this fix is the solution to your problem, If your auto loader is ejecting the spent round but not driving a live cartridge home then this is not the remedy and you should first try a new clip and a thorough cleaning (with one exception which i will explain later.)
If your Remington auto loader is CLEAN and well LUBED and you are not ejecting the spent casing then you need to remove the fore arm and with a quality pair of large sharp jawed of diagonal wire cutters remove ONE coil from the return/mainspring. Place a piece of clear shipping tape on the receiver so that the edge of the tape covers the bolt handle slot just enough to cause the bolt handle shaft to "dent" the edge of the tape when it is pulled fully to the rear of the receiver. This is the gauge to let you know when the bolt has been fully thrown to it's most rearward position in the receiver by the gas operation system. Your bolt MUST reach it's full rearward movement to engage the live round in the mag!
Load your clip with 4 rounds and one in the chamber to cause full pressure and drag on bolt.
Fire the rifle. If it did not eject the spent round, load a new round and "dent" the end of the gauge tape then clip another coil off and repeat the procedure.
Important to know is that you must stop clipping coils as soon as the tape is dented showing full rearward movement of the bolt! I have repaired many 7400's and a couple of the new 750's with this method and the worst that can happen is you clip too many coils and have to replace the mainspring and start over.
As long as the spring clipping was stopped as the bolt fully reached the rear of the receiver you will have ample spring pressure to close the bolt and load a new round.
P.S In the begging I mentioned an exception to the rule and here is the explanation.
If your firearm is ejecting a spent round but not picking up a new one then this fix will also work because most likely your problem is that the the bolt is traveling far enough to eject the round but not fully to the rear to pick up the live round.
Use the tape "gauge" at the rear of the bolt slot to determine if the bolt is traveling fully to the rear.
This method will put an end to the term JAMOMATIC.
I have never over cut the spring by cutting one coil and testing ONE at a time. Every Rem. auto loader I have repaired in this fashion has stayed fixed and functioning perfectly.
good luck.
If your Remington auto loader is CLEAN and well LUBED and you are not ejecting the spent casing then you need to remove the fore arm and with a quality pair of large sharp jawed of diagonal wire cutters remove ONE coil from the return/mainspring. Place a piece of clear shipping tape on the receiver so that the edge of the tape covers the bolt handle slot just enough to cause the bolt handle shaft to "dent" the edge of the tape when it is pulled fully to the rear of the receiver. This is the gauge to let you know when the bolt has been fully thrown to it's most rearward position in the receiver by the gas operation system. Your bolt MUST reach it's full rearward movement to engage the live round in the mag!
Load your clip with 4 rounds and one in the chamber to cause full pressure and drag on bolt.
Fire the rifle. If it did not eject the spent round, load a new round and "dent" the end of the gauge tape then clip another coil off and repeat the procedure.
Important to know is that you must stop clipping coils as soon as the tape is dented showing full rearward movement of the bolt! I have repaired many 7400's and a couple of the new 750's with this method and the worst that can happen is you clip too many coils and have to replace the mainspring and start over.
As long as the spring clipping was stopped as the bolt fully reached the rear of the receiver you will have ample spring pressure to close the bolt and load a new round.
P.S In the begging I mentioned an exception to the rule and here is the explanation.
If your firearm is ejecting a spent round but not picking up a new one then this fix will also work because most likely your problem is that the the bolt is traveling far enough to eject the round but not fully to the rear to pick up the live round.
Use the tape "gauge" at the rear of the bolt slot to determine if the bolt is traveling fully to the rear.
This method will put an end to the term JAMOMATIC.
I have never over cut the spring by cutting one coil and testing ONE at a time. Every Rem. auto loader I have repaired in this fashion has stayed fixed and functioning perfectly.
good luck.
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Hello Gitsum, I ended up with a 742 that got passed down from family members. I reload my own 30-06 with winchester brass and 165gr noslers, using imr 4064 and 4895. I find your note very interesting and thought I could try it. I keep my gun clean now since I found some documentation on how to take it apart. So I'm ok with that, just trying to stop any other jamming related issues. Every once in a while it will jam for some reason. So, first question, before I start to remove rings on the spring, do you know where I could purchase another one by chance? I really would like to try your idea but wanted some sort of backup plan.
Regards,
Colorado Hunter0 -
the barrel nut (the nut that holds the barrel to the reciever) on the 742's and 7400's don''t know about the 750's, had a habit of loosening and that caused lots of jamming problems, Remington forgot to locktite the nuts. it takes a special wrench along with locktite to re tighten the nut thus fixing the problem. 0 -
Mr. Trout...Try Brownells or Numrich www.e-gunparts.com for the spring. A frequent cause of jamming is rust/gunk in the chamber. Use a chamber brush or .45 brush to scrub it clean. I also reload for my 742 and always trim my cases on the short side. If your getting 1 1/2" groups at 100 yds your'e doing fine. 0 -
Rather than removing parts of the spring to balance the push from the pressure in the barrel, I prefer to adjust the pressure in the barrel by loading different types and amounts of powder. I have found in our M740 that faster powders result in insufficient push, while slower powders can have too much. Since the 30-06 has such a wide span of workable powders, I much prefer changing loads to changing springs. 0 -
My 7400 270, wont eject the shell. sometimes it breaks the rim of the cartridge. any ideas 0 -
quote:Originally posted by scarlsons
My 7400 270, wont eject the shell. sometimes it breaks the rim of the cartridge. any ideas
Sounds like your chamber is dirty/rusty, causing the casings to stick. Common with these -- and why they come from the factory with an angled wire brush. Scrub that sucker out real good and see if that helps any. Sure would be better if they came with a chrome-lined chamber.0
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