Mechanic question
Does anyone know the socket/nut size of the front wheel bearing nut on a '92 Olds Bravada? I'd assume it's likely the same as a similar year model Chevy Blazer. My socket set has disappeared.
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Daughter has a '95 Mustang. Having braking problems. Brakes don't grind or squeak. No loss of fluid. Peddle is good (stiff).
But they just doesn't stop the car reliably. They will slow it down to an eventual stop. But nothing you can count on in a short distance.
I thought I'd had about every kind of brake malfunction one could have. But this is a new one. Exhibits 0 symptoms of usual brake problems (except of course failure to stop car).
I can do break jobs. But won't have time for a few days. Until then she can drive one of our vehicles. But just curious.
Anyone ever experience this? What might it be?0 -
My parents own a '98 Dodge Dakota pickup w/a V-6 engine. Yesterday it overheated. Today I investigated and found that a valve (heater control valve) on the heater hose was leaking. A trip to both Autozone and O'Reilly's reveal that a replacement is unavailable (through them at least).
Can this valve be bypassed by adding a piece of tubing between the hoses? And if so, what about the vacuum line that also attached to he valve? Any help appreciated.0 -
The driver side front wheel of my '88 Ford F-150 is pulling severely to that side. Jacked it up and wheel is nearly locked up. Will barely turn w/force. But no wobble or screeching sound that in my experience go w/bad bearings.
Pulled the outer bearing. A lttle dry, but looked OK. No metal frags inside hub. Packed a bunch of grease in hub (to hopefully work into inner bearing. Packed outer bearing, took test drive. Still pulling.
I'm thinking the brake is somehow grabbing. Is there any "Easy Fix" to this that doesn't require removing the brakes? Your thoughts?
BTW: Put new fan clutch on the 93 yesterday. Just what the doctor ordered! Thanks for the info help!0 -
My '93 F-150 w/4.9 6 overheats when sitting still. Like in traffic jam or at idle. Runs/cools fine when moving. Any idea what might be problem? 0 -
PLEASE NOTE: I AM NOT A MECHANIC. I CAN CHANGE OIL, TAKE TIRES OFF, AND HAVE A SET OF METRIC TOOLS, BUT I AM NOT VERY EXPERIENCED WITH THE GUTS OF ENGINES.
With the above said, I am happy to report that I am continuing on my committment to never drive a car that I paid more than $1500 for. I manage to stay mobile in various cars that are given to me or that I buy cheap. I see no benefit to driving a $25,000 car when for a little sacrifice of ego I can motorvate in economical style. Currently, I am driving a 1995 Cadillac that was a friend's mother's car. Great ride but not so good through the woods fishing and hunting.
I just got a 1985 Mercedes Benz 300TD Wagon that is in real good shape. Everything works well and it drives great. Cruise, air, AT and good tires and breaks. 291,000 miles is rumored to be just about broken in on this car!
I need a driver's seat, or need to have this seat redone. Is this easily done by an auto upholstery shop, or should I buy a seat from JC Whitney for $159?
Ideas, questions, concerns, comments, complaints....all are welcome.0 -
While driving my brother's 06 ford f350 diesel pickup, the truck just died. Could not get it started again. Towed it home, replaced the fuel filters,and still nothing. I am getting fuel to the top fuel filter, but it wont start. Any ideas? 0 -
Well, kind of. My daughter has 2003 Chevy Ex/Cab pickup purchase used recently. Has a flat, can't find the jack. I will go there tomorrow. Where is the jack supposed to be? 0 -
I drive a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, 6-cylinder engine, manual tranny, 99,000 miles. Yesterday, drove to a friends house, stayed a few minutes, and when I went to leave, Jeep wouldn't start. No electrical power at all: door buzzer wouldn't buzz, no lights worked at all, etc. Starter wouldn't "click" or anything. Nothing! Boosted it off, and it started and ran ok until cables were removed, then it would die. Figured the battery had shorted out somehow. Had to hook the jumper cables back up to roll the windows up before I left it, but this time it started and ran OK. Quickly drove it home, but the "check gauges" light was on, and the voltometer was pegged out, showing a charge of 20 (as hight as it will show!). Got home, and it promptly died. No power, nothing, nada, same as before. Went out last night to remove the battery so I could take it to town today to have it checked. Raised the hood, and the underhood light worked! Tried to start it, and it started right up, voltometer was right where it should have been, and everything seemed fine.
Sorry for the long description, but what could have happened, and what do I need to check to keep it from doing this again?
Thanks!0 -
My daughter has a 2000 Grand Prix/3.8 V-6 that won't run. From what they describe to me, it will start and run fine w/no misses etc for a few minutes in the morning. Then die and will not re-start for the rest of the day.
Any ideas as what problem might be?0 -
Just talked to my dad. The breaks on his '89 Ford Taurus are looked up. Drove it last week, everything fine. Parked in garage, now it won't budge. What the heck would cause that? 0 -
Here's the problem. I have a '95 Chevy Z-71 that I recently had a new motor put in. Ever since the motor swap, when I try to start the truck, the motor will not turn over very fast, as if the battery is almost dead. After I replaced the battery, it seemed to help a little, but it has went back to the same old thing. So then I replaced the alternator, thinking that it might be that. Nope, still does it. Checked all the connections, and haven't found anything wrong there. Today, it done the same thing. To the point that it wouldn't turn over. Set there a few minutes, tried to start it again, and it started right up, as if there was no problem at all.
So, what might the problem be? Am I looking over something simple? Thanks in advance, oh wise ones.0 -
Bad Voltage regulator? 0 -
quote: Bad Voltage regulator?
That's the direction I'm leaning it, but wanted to get some different opinions before I started replacing parts. Thanks!0 -
I used to have this problem in past years with the batteries with the terminals on top but haven't with the newer batteries with the side mounted terminals. On the older batteries the solution was to unhook the terminals, clean the corrosion from the terminals and the cable ends and reconnect. This usually fixed the problem. These newer cars are so complex that it may be something "deeper." Good luck. 0 -
i agree with the start simple and work your way up. pull the battery and have it tested(autozone does it for free). they will aslo test your alternator. thoroughly clean the terminals and check the cables for wear. re install the batt and function test. if the problem persists, i would bring it in to be diag'd by a mechanic. it very well might be a bad regualtor. best of luck 0 -
quote:I used to have this problem in past years with the batteries with the terminals on top but haven't with the newer batteries with the side mounted terminals.
Jeep uses batteries with top-mounted cables. This morning I did clean the terminals really well, but they were super clean to start with. No corrosion at all.0 -
VR is inbuilt into the alternator. I suspect this is not the problem as the alternator is not involved when the engine is not running and the ignition is off.
I believe you'll find one of two problems...
Your battery has sulfated itself to death. (Most probably)
Your battery posts are corroded. Probably the cable lugs, too.
If the battery is more than two years old, then it's time for a replacement. Lugs need to be wire-brushed where they contact the battery post and washed with baking soda.
Charging system should also be checked to make sure there was no damage. Nominal values should be just under 15v with the motor running.
Should be a $50.00 fix.0 -
Is it the original battery??
If so,your lucky it lasted this long.
BW(Who has never had an original battery in any Chrysler product last more than two years.)0 -
quote: Is it the original battery??
No, it's not. Battery is about 2 1/2 or 3 years old.0 -
alternator is probably shot. if the VR is bad and included in the unit just buy a new one. 0 -
Check the motor and chassis grounds first. 0 -
OK... One more time.
The problem occured (no power whatsoever) when the engine and alternator were not running. That means the alternator is out of the loop for the moment.
You could start the car and run with a jumper to a different battery.
What did your volt meter read then? Normal or overcharge?
You disconnected the jumpers and your engine died. Am I correct? If so, then your alternator may not have been supplying any current at all.
After a bit of work you got things running on the old battery. Again... Am I correct?
If so, then you must have primarily either a battery or cable problem. Your battery will test good when it's good, but this doesn't mean that it really is. You need to test it when the car is dead.
Ground cables corrode and break. A bad ground is the same thing as a bad battery. I say ground because the starting circuit and the accessory circuits are usually powered by two separate cables and grounded in common. Thus, ground cables become suspect.
Batteries are batteries. MoPar alternators don't make different voltages than anyone else. Implying that a OEM battery in a Chrysler product is somehow inferior to or is charged differently than any other is pure horse manure. I expect they buy batteries from the same folks who build them for Ford and GM.
When all is said and done, you must check for an overcharge condition from the alternator. This is possible and will overheat and ruin a battery, but it's NOT your primary problem at the moment.0 -
Dynamite. Or, perhaps one of these: 
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check all your grounds the ones from neg batt cable to core support (radiator support) and any straps from the body to the engine must be present and clean. 0 -
you lost your earth, check that lead to the chassis..[:D] 0 -
odds are the internal VR has , or is about to poop out on you. But it won't hurt to check the ground cables. You have already checked battery terminals. Now check tension on the belt that drives the alternator. If the VR poops on ya, it will put no charge into the battery- so you run on battery until it goes away. When it unsticks, tries to make up for lost time by high rate of charge. ALSO- with newer vehicles- the onboard computer controls frickin' near everything. Had to take my 2006 Jeep back on a recall to have computer reprogrammed. 0 -
Owning a 6v car, I think I can safely say that good clean connections - especially your grounds - are essential. Also, using relays where possible (ignition/starter, lights) to take load off of switches, etc. 0 -
6V - it must be a classic. It's been awhile since 6V - '54 to around '58 till all the (American) cars and trucks went to 12V.
What do you have ??
Doug0
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