Cleaning Rust off of metal?
I was given a WW2 Nazi SA ceremonial dagger. This is a cool looking knife, with a wooden handle that has a one inch wide Nazi eagle with swastika on it.
The blade is bright metal, and says "Alles fur Deutschland" on it in Germanic script. There is light surface rust all over the blade. The blade is not pitted, it is just surface rust. I rubbed it a little with fine steel wool, and got some of the rust off. I would like to really clean it up.
What would be the best way to get this light rust off? Kroil?
The blade is bright metal, and says "Alles fur Deutschland" on it in Germanic script. There is light surface rust all over the blade. The blade is not pitted, it is just surface rust. I rubbed it a little with fine steel wool, and got some of the rust off. I would like to really clean it up.
What would be the best way to get this light rust off? Kroil?
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WD-40 and an old toothbrush. 0 -
soak the blade with mineral oil for a couple weeks. 0 -
http://www.flitz.com/index.html I used this on mine. It works. There is some other brand called Simi-chrome, also works good..http://www.westernwooddoctor.com/simichrome.htm 0 -
Nevr-Dull cotton wadding is a true wonder on rust. It works slowly and you have to keep rubbing it but it does not harm the metal and it leaves a protective film behind. Comes in a round blue metal can with a pop off lid.
Here's a link to it:
http://www.nevrdull.com/0 -
I happen to have a tube of simichrome. I was using it to polish the bore of a muzzleloader.
I rubbed the blade for a while with simichrome. It got most of the rust off.
I took a chance, and worked out on one side of the blade with a wire brush in a drill. I was afraid it would scratch the blade, but it didn't. It got off more rust, but not all.
I am tempted to try soaking it in mineral oil. What is mineral oil, and where do you get it?0 -
Cheapest way and this is one of me and my grandads trade secrets but it works wonders. Buy yourself a Mr. Clean Magic eraser soak and squeeze allwater out of it. Rub all over the blade and anywhere you see rust on metal and it will take all rust off of the Metal dry blade and your done even works on blued metal as well. 0 -
On tough applications the cheapest and best way to remove surface rust on steel or cast iron is by Electrolysis. It is simple and cheap and all you need is a plastic container, Arm and Hammer washing soap (Sodium Carbonate) water, and a battery charger. Look up the details under rust removal electrolysis. Try it, you will never again use abrasive methods of removal. 0 -
Stick the knife in an onion and let it set for 4-6hrs. Pull it out and clean it, then use WD40 and steel wool. 0 -
CocaCola 0 -
I bought a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser at Ingles store. I tried it on the dagger, nothing came off!
So, I have a spike bayonet from England that is sure enough rusty, I had not cleaned it at all. I tried the Magic Eraser on that, man did it knock the rust off of it. Worked great. But, it left a mottled black film on the spike bayonet, similar to what remains on the dagger.
I have hit this German dagger so much, with steel wool, wire brush on electric drill, and simichrome, that the true red rust is all gone. The blade is 90 per cent cleaned up but it still looks like crap. What is left is a very very thin layer of mottled black stuff that almost looks like a layer of mold starting to grow on the blade, it is the residue of rust, I guess.
When I hit it with the simichrome and a clean cloth, in fifteen seconds that cloth is black, so I guess the simichrome is continuting to remove this stuff. It would take a few hours with the simichrome to remove all of this stuff. I need to hire an $8 an hour Mexican.0 -
never dull 0 -
Mother's Billett Polish and 0000 steel wool. 0 -
If it's light, use blue remover. If it's a little heavier, use naval jelly. Follow the directions on either one. 0 -
jimmyjack: I googled up electrolysis. I am going to try this procedure.
I don't have a battery charger, but a 12 volt battery will work. So I am going to use the battery in my truck. Do you think I should disconnect it from the truck before I use it?
One web site said that a big 12 volt battery will go dead after two hours of electrolysis. These guys were cleaning up heavily rusted, big 5 pound steel pulleys, etc., and doing the procedure for 12 hours or more.
As little rust as remains on this dagger, I bet it will clean up in a short time, I am hoping 30 minutes or less.0 -
I am on the edge of my seat!
Allen, don't tease us, let us know if there are any survivors of the car battery treatment!0 -
Human excrement and pickle juice. I just had to add something after hearing all of these other concoctions.[:D] Please dont try my suggestion. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by allen griggs
jimmyjack: I googled up electrolysis. I am going to try this procedure.
I don't have a battery charger, but a 12 volt battery will work. So I am going to use the battery in my truck. Do you think I should disconnect it from the truck before I use it?
One web site said that a big 12 volt battery will go dead after two hours of electrolysis. These guys were cleaning up heavily rusted, big 5 pound steel pulleys, etc., and doing the procedure for 12 hours or more.
As little rust as remains on this dagger, I bet it will clean up in a short time, I am hoping 30 minutes or less.
Run jumper cables into the cab and do your electrolysis while you drive. Your battery will never go dead then.0 -
Allen, I dont think it would make a difference, but charge it up after a couple of hours. Remember this process uses line of sight for removal, you may have to turn it periodically. I have never used it on a gun, but see no reason why it wouldnt be the tits! Open a new post and let us know how it works. 0 -
I cranked up the electrolysis. Cost $0.
For an anode, I used a scrap of rebar that was left over from building the house. The Arm and Hammer washing soda, I already had a box of it, I use it for washing my clothes. I got a 30 inch long plastic pan that is used for mixing mortar. I could lay the rebar and the dagger down flat, and keep them parallel and 2 inches apart. For wires, I used jumper cables. I disconnected the + from the truck, I was afraid I might blow something on the truck.
I hooked the thing up and it got cooking quick! Bubbles were coming up all along the length of the dagger.
I ran it for about an hour, then disconnected and cranked the truck back up. I was concerned with running the battery out. Well, it seemed to have full cranking power at that point.
I idled the truck for 18 minutes to charge the battery back up. Then, I disconnected the + from the truck again, and hooked up the electrolysis. I ran it for 1 1/2 hours the second time.
Enough funky green gunk came boiling up to the surface to float a rowboat. I figured the blade would be like new after 2 1/2 hours. But, alas there is still a lot of crud on it.
Still the procedure is effective. The part of the knife that is connected to the blade, and that runs up into the handle, I think it is called the tang, was covered in thick rust. Much of that is now gone and you can begin to make out markings on it, I can see the number 10. There are probably more markings under that rust.
It would be a lot easier if I had a battery charger, and just used that instead of the truck battery. It would be a lot easier if I didn't disconnect the + wire from the battery. I am guessing that it wouldn't hurt anything to leave the battery connected to the truck.
Then, I could go out every so often and crank the truck up for 15 minutes to recharge the battery, and leave the electrolysis going while the truck is running. The battery will easily take 15 minutes of electrolysis without going flat.
This knife is going to need another 2 to 5 hours of this procedure to get cleaned up.
Anyway, this wasn't a good day to do this science experiment, see thread "Snowing in Carolina."0 -
Flitz!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 0 -
quote:Originally posted by allen griggs
I cranked up the electrolysis. Cost $0.
For an anode, I used a scrap of rebar that was left over from building the house. The Arm and Hammer washing soda, I already had a box of it, I use it for washing my clothes. I got a 30 inch long plastic pan that is used for mixing mortar. I could lay the rebar and the dagger down flat, and keep them parallel and 2 inches apart. For wires, I used jumper cables. I disconnected the + from the truck, I was afraid I might blow something on the truck.
I hooked the thing up and it got cooking quick! Bubbles were coming up all along the length of the dagger.
I ran it for about an hour, then disconnected and cranked the truck back up. I was concerned with running the battery out. Well, it seemed to have full cranking power at that point.
I idled the truck for 18 minutes to charge the battery back up. Then, I disconnected the + from the truck again, and hooked up the electrolysis. I ran it for 1 1/2 hours the second time.
Enough funky green gunk came boiling up to the surface to float a rowboat. I figured the blade would be like new after 2 1/2 hours. But, alas there is still a lot of crud on it.
Still the procedure is effective. The part of the knife that is connected to the blade, and that runs up into the handle, I think it is called the tang, was covered in thick rust. Much of that is now gone and you can begin to make out markings on it, I can see the number 10. There are probably more markings under that rust.
It would be a lot easier if I had a battery charger, and just used that instead of the truck battery. It would be a lot easier if I didn't disconnect the + wire from the battery. I am guessing that it wouldn't hurt anything to leave the battery connected to the truck.
Then, I could go out every so often and crank the truck up for 15 minutes to recharge the battery, and leave the electrolysis going while the truck is running. The battery will easily take 15 minutes of electrolysis without going flat.
This knife is going to need another 2 to 5 hours of this procedure to get cleaned up.
Anyway, this wasn't a good day to do this science experiment, see thread "Snowing in Carolina."
what kind of arm and hammer are you using?Baking soda? Laundry detergent?0 -
Stick the damn thing in an onion already! 0 -
Here's a link regarding a product called Evapo-Rust, along with some pictures of the "before and after" variety:
http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-Before-and-After-W7C2.aspx0 -
The black corrosion on the blade is called "magnatite". It is corrosion, but it is a beneficial type of corrosion as it acts as a barrier between the metal and oxygen thereby preventing the normal Ferrous Oxide (red rust) from forming. It is also very tough to remove. I am not sure any of the "normal" methods (neverdull, etc.) will work. You could try MAAS (google it) but it may take acid cleaning / grinding to get it off. 0 -
I am using Arm and Hammer laundry soap. It has the familiar Arm and Hammer symbol on it, it is next to the Tide in the laundry soap section of the grocery store. It is sodium carbonate. Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate. Baking soda works, but not as well as the washing soda.
http://royalcrossfarm.com/electrolysis.htm
kimi: that evaporust is looking pretty good. But, $22.95/gallon, plus shipping, no doubt another ten bucks.
I am going to stick with the electrolysis, which is free, as long as I don't blow up something on the truck.0 -
Allen: It is expensive, but what a difference it makes, huh?
For lighter stuff, "Wink" is excellent. It comes in a brown plastic bottle. It's caustic and you need to wear gloves, but it removes rust, or rust stains in a wink, literally. I used it on the recruits rifles and deuce gear, and seldom, if ever lost a personnel inspection. Back then, we'd put on gloves, squirt a stream of "Wink" on a rag, like an old skivvie shirt, and then lightly rub it across, for example, sling swivels to make them look new like. Incredible stuff...it will do the same with rust stains on towels or other cloth products, rust stains on bathtubs, etc.
I think ACE Hardware still carries it.0 -
kimi: Do you think "wink" or "evaporust" will get off that thin fine layer of black corrosion? Handgunhntr called it "magnatite." I got all the red rust off but that black stuff makes the blade look like crap. 0 -
Allen: I wish I knew. I did not even know what it was called, and found his post highly informative. The last time I bought a bottle of Wink, it cost about three dollars. That was about five years back. It might be worth a try, if what you're doing now does not do the trick. Good luck on that Allen, and keep us posted. 0 -
"Wink" may work as it is caustic, I have never used it so I can't say for sure. Basically the only way to remove magnatite is to acid (or caustic) clean it or to remove it via mechanical means (grind/buff it off). 0 -
I shoved the dagger into an onion an hour ago, will give it a four hour treatment in the onion. 0
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