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Hot rodders....chevy ?

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37 comments

  • ChetStafford
    Of all the power adders A turbo or supercharger is the best way to go unless you get really stupid radical they are easy on parts.

    Nitrous is very hard on parts and requires constant attention to jetting and timing with change in weather conditions. Nitrous will burn pistons if it run in a lean condition
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  • dcloco
    quote:Originally posted by select-fire
    IF you do decide to go different go with the 383 stroker. Many variations to play with including putting a supercharger on em. I personally do not like nitrous. Damage can occur quickly..


    quote:Originally posted by csjs1194
    Nitrous is very hard on parts and requires constant attention to jetting and timing with change in weather conditions. Nitrous will burn pistons if it run in a lean condition

    Actually, chasing a supercharger tune is about the worse thing to do that exists. Turbo is second. NOS is the easiest of the three. Take out fuel until your plugs start to turn color.

    A TON more money involved to build a supercharged or turbo motor, correctly.
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  • dcloco
    quote:Originally posted by Pa Redneck
    1st take them Rhoads lifters and make targets out of them, abosulte junk marketed at the guys who cam an engine to the point it idles like a Keith Black Hemi, sales pitch is all they are. They bleed off and collapse at low RPMs making the engine sound like it has a solid cam out of adjust, JUNK!

    Decking the heads, you will need to have the intake done as well, decking the heads fubars the mating of the intake and should only done when absolutly necassary and done by an experianced machinist, Bubba Bobs Fix 'Em shop will mess them up every time. Brodix builds a mean head, check them out, most of the time Brodix needs no port work and almost off except the most expensive race heads needs porting. You can cam that engine to hell and back and dump ferocious quantities of fuel into it but with heads that have never been on a flow bench you are wasting money.

    Cams, Summit Racing and other speed shops will dazzle you with all sorts of fancy sounding numbers that are always not what the cam actually is, look at advertised duration and actull duration, that mean sounding .305 is most likely nothing more than a .282. The centerline on over the counter cams is cut for street use resulting in lousy throttle response and performance. Call Comp Cams with the numbers you are looking for and what you have already, actual displacement, actual compression ratio, induction, how much fuel are you going to feed it, tire size, gearing, auto or stick tranny, tranny gearing and max RPM you want to be at when crossing the 1320 line. Comp Cams will grind you a cam suited for your application and it will cost the same as an off the shelf cam and work 10Xs better.

    Compression ratio, I gather from your posts that you want a barely streetable engine, you are gonna cam it to dork correct? Well now the idea of a lower compression engine just went bye bye, you will need a high compression engine because once you install that Mt Everest Bump Stick in it you are going to bleed off compression, you will lose it in a hurry so a 9.5-1 engine is gonna suck big weenies with that big cam.

    My favorite engine is the 383 Stoker, crank kits can be had at almost any speed shop, ready to install. All you need to do is do some die grinder work on the block, this is so simple a 6 year old can do this. You want mean driveshaft snapping torque? Go with the 383. You want HP and quick RPS to go with that torque? Go with the 383, it is the best of both the big blck and small block worlds.

    But then again, kids today are making Hondas sound loike Go Carts and making them eat the average Camaro for lunch. Have you thought about a 4 banger?


    Need to look at the torque curves of the 377 vs a 383 - 377 is within 5%...but hangs in there a lot longer. Flatter/longer powerband is what you want....not a high torque peak unless you want to tow something.

    Big block is an alternative - just remember, the rest of your drivetrain needs to be able to handle it.

    500 hp big block is easy with 454 cubes or bigger..on pump gas. Don't bother with the rectangle port heads - too large of intake runners = no velocity and poor atomization. Go with open chamber oval port heads, unshroud the valves in the ports, and bolt them on.

    For what you are building, would not even look at a cam under 525 lift and 286-296 duration in a 454 or larger engine.

    But, you can build a big block differently - build it for torque. Keep the RPM's under 5700, stay with 3.55 gears...and let it grunt it's way along. This works good in cars in the 3600 pound and under weight. Works ok in cars above this weight, but you have to use 3.73 gears. Built a 427 equipped 67 Biscayne. Would run 13.5's all day long. Tried to get him to build a 468 when I first built it. Now, it has a 468, glide, and a 9" ford. Runs 11.5 for about the same money. If you put hubcaps on the car, you would SWEAR it was gramma's. Full exhaust, the little bit of chrome, blue interior with a bench seat. The fake radio faceplate (looks like a c/d player) flips down for toggles for the line lock, fuel pump, etc. The ONLY giveaway, if the front wheels are turned half way, you can see the headers just below the frame rail.
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  • cowdoc
    quote:Originally posted by ObiWan
    If you find a 327 SMALL journal block....you've got something that is pretty rare these days.

    Put a 283 (short stroke V8) crank in it and you can make a Chevy 302 screamer.

    One high rpm screaming SOB.




    OBI, i have two 327 small journal engines one i parted out and the one in my camaro.
    the one i took apart i did find it has crack externally on right side from block drain plug back couple inches [:(]
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  • Big Sky Redneck
    quote:Need to look at the torque curves of the 377 vs a 383 - 377 is within 5%...but hangs in there a lot longer. Flatter/longer powerband is what you want....not a high torque peak unless you want to tow something.

    Torque curves are not achieved with bore and stroke, they are achieved thru various methods with the biggest being camming. I can put a plain jane SB Chevy 350 and can give you peak torque at different RPMs thru cam dimensions, cam timing, ignition timing, intake selection, head ports, exhaust and other different combinations. An Edelbrock Torquer II vs a Performer RPM intake will move peak HP and torque an easy 500 RPMs, change the duration, centerline and lift and watch it move more, and so on and so on..........

    Building the shortblock is childs play, wanna make power
    it is time to hunker down. Also having the engine is only the first step in hotrodding, now you gotta get that power to the ground and make it useable thru gearing and suspension. A 700HP engine aint gonna do squat when you still have airplane gears, stock tranny and a limited slip diff all sitting on factory suspension[:D]

    Hotrodding street tip of the week.
    Wanna pull wheelies? Easy to do, 90/10s in the front, 50/50s in the back, 10PSI in rear tires and a little foot magic on the pedals. Made a Ford Pinto do a wheelie once with stock engine[:D][:D][:D]
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  • dcloco
    quote:Originally posted by Pa Redneck
    quote:Need to look at the torque curves of the 377 vs a 383 - 377 is within 5%...but hangs in there a lot longer. Flatter/longer powerband is what you want....not a high torque peak unless you want to tow something.

    Torque curves are not achieved with bore and stroke, they are achieved thru various methods with the biggest being camming.......

    You are absolutely right. That is why the 377 has a broader, flatter, and almost as high of peak torque as a 383. Thanks for proving that.
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  • Big Sky Redneck
    ?????????
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