Vehicle shopping, help with MSRP.
My truck is showing its age. A new one may be needed this year.
Not bad, considering I have had this one since 96, (its a 94) and I have put 120000 on it.
I looked online at the Colorado/Canyon (built to what I want) and MSRP is app. 25,000.
What would I really be looking at? How much could I expect a dealer to drop from MSRP.
Thanks
Not bad, considering I have had this one since 96, (its a 94) and I have put 120000 on it.
I looked online at the Colorado/Canyon (built to what I want) and MSRP is app. 25,000.
What would I really be looking at? How much could I expect a dealer to drop from MSRP.
Thanks
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If you really gotta have new the way to go is buy what's left from the previous year, like getting an '07 this coming October. You may not get exactly what you want but you'll save big $$.
Next choice would be back-from-lease that has accurate service records.0 -
If I could find a nice used one I would be happy with that, but the Colorado/Canyon does not seem to be selling as well as the S-10/Sonoma. Making it hard to find a used one, even hard to find new ones around here.
I am hoping that Chevy will give 0% fincancing with the 5yr/100000mile coverage. Then it may be worthwile to buy new.
I have only owned two vehicles, both used, and both showed problems 1 month or so after buying with no real warranty.
85 S-10
94 S-10
Do you see the pattern?0 -
quote:Originally posted by RUGERGUNZ
I have only owned two vehicles, both used, and both showed problems 1 month or so after buying with no real warranty.
85 S-10
94 S-10
Do you see the pattern?
Yeah, you keep buying Chevy's! [:p][}:)][:D][;)]0 -
Give Dave Smith a call. Atleast they will give you a number to see were your local guys stand. They were 8,000 lower than my local dealer. When I told them what I could get it for their prices drop alot. Dave is a true no hassle no B.S. They tell you what it cost.
1-800-635-8000
http://www.davesmith.com/0 -
True dealer cost (not invoice) is around 70% of sticker. That means about $17,500 on a $25,000 sticker. They are going to make at least $1,000 on the sale. If there are any dealer or manufacturer rebates, they come off of the profit margin. The last truck I bought was a $24,700 sticker and I got it for $17,245, but that included a $1,000 manufacture rebate.
Make an offer then walk away. Don't sit and dicker.0 -
Dave Smith has one in todays paper MSRP 31,995 for 16,995 0 -
quote:Originally posted by big800
Dave Smith has one in todays paper MSRP 31,995 for 16,995
How far do I have to drive to pick it up. I have seen posts about this dealer on here before. Perhaps I need to email them with what I want. I know they are far away from Maine but recall they will fly you out there.
Not super serious about buying right now, but if I could get a good one at that price, new with warranty and low APR, would definitely think about it.0 -
They are in Idaho. Long drive but give them a call they will give you a number to take to your dealer. They don't BS. They give you all the rebates they can and i think they only make 400.00 a car. That is after all the rebate not 400.00 over invoice 0 -
Rugergunz-
You didn't really give any details, so I pulled up a Colorado Crew Cab 4x4 2LT LT Option Pkg, 3.7L 5-Cyl, M30 Auto Transmission that we have in stock.
MSRP: $25,795
*Dealer Invoice Price: 24277.45
*GM Employee Price: 23348.05
True cost is somewhere between Invoice and GM Employee. If your dealer is on the edge of getting their quota bonus, they may work you a better deal.
Don't forget your rebates or other incentives like GM credit card points if you have a GM Card ...
Right now GM is telling us rebates are as good as they are going to get ... I'm guessing, with the overstock of full size Silverado's they have in stock they will be doing something on those in the next 45 days or so ...
One thing I do know for sure ... the factory doesn't offer rebates because it helps the buyer or the dealer ... they do it because "they" have too much inventory, and its cheaper to discount the inventory on the ground than shut down the plant.0 -
This is a repost from a member/former member and has some GOOD information on how to buy a car.....
Ah the thrill of the deal...
I have worked for the mfg/dealers/sold cars and have worked finance and insurance for around 25 + years in one form or antoher.
If your looking for any vehicle, I recommend using www.edmunds.com for info on "real life" pricing, and follow the instructions below, and you can beat the dealer at his own game, somewhat.
But you will end up saving anywhere from $3,000 to $15,000 depending on which vehicle you decide on.
First Step:
Know your credit score!!!!
One can get a free credit report from your local credit reporting agency, free once a year, thats a new federal law.
Dealers love low credit scores in the 600's, which means high intrest rates, this is called "D" paper.
Credit scores of 700-750 is "C" paper
Credit scores of 750-800 is "B" paper
Credit scores of 800-850 is "A" paper
Credit scores above 850 is "A1" paper
Now you know around what kind of intrest rates your going to be offered at the dealership.
Also check with your local credit unions, and your banker about their current intrest rates. A pre-approval is a blessing in disguse.
As you can use that per-approval rate as a bargining tool on the dealers finiancing rates.
In the Finance & Insurance (F&I) department, is where you sign the finance papers, and they offer you Life & Disiablity insurance, Extended warranties, and anything else that can add more to the price.
The F&I dept, sends your credit application to 2 or 3 SELECT credit agencies (depending on your credit score) for approval.
If the credit agency offers to buythe dealers contract at say 6%, the dealer will state that the best he found was 9%.
This allows him to make a 3% profit on the overall cost of the vehicle.
The people with A1 paper are the ones that get the 0% intrest, and best terms
A paper your looking at 1.9 - 3.9%
B paper your looking at 6.9 - 9.9%
C paper your looking at 12.0 - 28.0%
Second Step:
NO DEALER!!! uses the "NADA", or the "Kelly's Bluebook", as they are outdated before they are even printed.
All dealers now use the "Blackbook", and NO! you just cant go out and buy one, you have to subscribe for a full year, "they are printed every week", and they are expensive!!!!, around $600 a year or more to subscribe.
The "Blackbook" is a regional, usualy covers 5 or 6 states or a region.
The prices listed in the "Blackbook" are updated every week!
And the information contained in the "Blackbook" are what vehicle are " SELLING FOR AT THE DEALER AUCTIONS"!!
This is the book that the dealer does not want you to know about, and it is not advetised.
Anyway, check out www.Edmunds.com, they list as close as possible as to the "Blackbook".
It will show the acutal dealership cost from the mfg, average sales prices in your area, and the Mfg Suggested Retail Price (MSRP).
Also if you have a trade-in Edmunds, will tell you exactly what the wholesale value, trade-in value, and the private sell values are on your current vehicle.
Also look for any dealer or mfg incentives, they can be listed at Edmunds and also at the mfg's web page.
Third Step:
Select the vehicle you want. Select from the mfg on-line, they will also show what dealerships have the vehicle that you specified.
Then do all your homework at Edmund before starting anything, add all the options that you want on the new vehicle, and be honest on the condition of your vehicle when reviewing its actual worth.
Go to Edmunds at get all 3 of the prices, dont forget the options!
Find the vehicle you want to buy from the dealers lot, that you have done the research on.
Figure the payments, based upon your credit scores for the intrest rates, the "Acutal Dealer Price" +$500 of the new vehicle, and the value of your trade-in.
This will give you a rough ideal as to the payment plans, that you can work with.
Fourth Step:
Clean up your trade-in, wash the exterior, clean the inside out really good, amour all everything, make it shine!!
Remove all trailer hitches, headache racks, brushguards, campers, pickup-bed covers, aftermarket stereo systems, window tinting, decals / stickers, non stock large tires / rims.
If you recently purchased a new set of tires say with less than 12,000 miles on them. Get them taken off, get a good looking used set for $80-$100.
Then keep the new tires for later use, or try to re-sell them and make a little extra money, dont give them away in the deal!!!!
As any off the above add-ons acessories actually lower the value of the vehicle.
Because it looks to the dealer and possible new owner, like its been hot rodded, a teenagers vehicle, Monster Mudded, or used as a comercial vehicle pulling large trailers.
And the dealer will have to pay someone to remove all the crap, which is thrown away.
Before the vehicle can go on the lot for sale or to the auction.
Fifth Step:
Every single department in a car dealership is a "Profit Area", each has to make money on your deal, otherwise they will go out of business.
The new car sales dept:
They and the salesman, want to get you into a car!!!!
Sure they would like to get the full sticker MSRP, sometimes they do, and get a good $3,000 -$15,000 profit depending on the vehicle.
And yes they like to sell for the "Edmunds Average Retail", which gives them a good $1500-$2000 profit.
Then there are the guys that have done their homework. These guys are the ones that know the actual dealer cost of the vehicle that they want to purchase, and the actual values of their trade-in.
And they are the ones that get the good deals, becuase they know what they are doing. And what everything is actually worth.
And of course they are not going to give the vehicle away either!!
Hit the dealer up with the actual dealer cost, as to what you are willing to pay.
Most of the time they wont take the first bite.
You have to remember that the mfg has "holdbacks", that are not listed on the factory invoice.
The mfg. holdback payments are for advertising around $100-$250, and volume sales allowances of $400-$750. And the dealer almost never gives this money away.
Depending on how bad you want the new vehicle, use the Edmonds dealers cost, and go in $100 increments in trying to close the deal.
Under not circumstantes offer $500 over the actual dealercost, walk away!!!.
Used car dept:
Will give the new car dept a "trade in value" of your trade. Usual profit margin is 25%-40%, by under pricing your trade-in.
So its really imortant that you know what the actual value of your trade-in is. Don't take anything less than the "Actual Trade-In Value" as listed by Edmunds.
F&I
The last stop before you take delivery...
Don't buy anything extra from these guys!
Insurance:
You dont want their life or disability insurance at all, they mark them up 300%!!!!!!
Extended Warranties:
The factory extended warranty can be bought anytime within the first 3 yrs/36,000 miles,and you want the one that is supported by the "Vehicles Maker" only.
All mfg's offer factory extended warranties, 5yr/50,000 coverage for around $580, 5yr/75k for around $650, 7yr/70k around $750, 7yr/100k for $1,000
DO NOT BUY A AFTERMARKET extended warrany or service contract!!!!
Buy the best you can afford, but make sure that the extended warranty covers "Seals & Gaskets" and "Computers".
Because this is where all the recuuring expensive repairs are, the failures of "Seals & Gaskets" and onboard Computers.
The F&I guy will add on a $50-$200 "Processing Fee" for processing the credit application, making up the loan contract, and for titlework.
This "Processing Fee" is also neogoatable, but, they will insist that it is not, beacuse your taking money away from him.
But your going to have to give him something, I would suggest $100.00 for his part, thats fair.
If you have followed these instructions, there is no way in hell that you cant get a good deal!!!!
November and December are slow months for a dealer, and he has to pay a "Floor Plan", thats intrest on the vehicles that have not sold, each month.
The last week of the month is also another good time to buy, as the dealer is likley to take more marginal deals, to get rid of the floor plan payment and get the holdback money.
Demos & Program Cars:
Demos:
Dealers are alloted X amount of demo's based on their sales history.
A demo is from the dealers stock, and is most likely a high end vehicel, that was used by the dealers owner, or his senior management staff.
Typicaly, a demo is put up for sale as soon as it nears 3,000 -5,000 miles on it.
The dealer is allowed to take a additioanl $2,500-$3,000 more in holdback money for the vehicle when its sold, thats a good deal for you if it is the vehicle you desire.
Program Cars:
Program cars are cars that have come back from going off a lease, or have came of of a fleet account like, Hertz, Enterprise,etc.
And are bought by the dealers at a auto auction.
These vehicles usually have had the crap run out of them, with as little maintance as possible being performed.
Some may even have major body collision or even electrical and mechanical problems. Some of these defects are very well hidden!
If looking at a program vehicle, take it to a shop that you can trust. Have them do a inspection on everything, look for collision damage, flooding, parts recently changed, leaking gaskets, check the coolant, oil, transmission fluids, drive axle fluids, power steering fluids, clutch, breakes, axle shafts, air conditioning, in other words check everything.
Before you sign the finance agreement!!!!
And lastly, typicaly, the state, depending on which stae you live in, allows you 3 days to back out of the deal. If you find something that you dont like about the purchase.
The dealer will fight you tooth and nail on returning a car within the so called "Cooling Off Period", allowed by your states laws.
But, he has no choice than to return your trade-in, and take his car back, and he wont like it!!!!!
To this day, I still love to screw with the dealers, and make the good deals.
Dont get in a hurry!!! Take your time!!!!!
Its all a game to see who wears out who first, I have been known to set at a dealer for a good solid 8 hours, in working out a deal.
One of my deals:
But then again, in mid December of 2002.
I bought a 2003 1500 Silverado SL Extended Quad Cab, 5.4V8, automatic, with all the options that window stickered MSRP'ed for $30,318.
And was offered a final "Take it or Leave it" deal of $21,000 flat.
Then I walked out, after 8 hours of dealing, with my final offer of $18,800 flat.
I paid $18,867 for it, two days latter.
When I wrote a check in front of the New Car Sales Manger and presented him with a personal check for it, and he took it.
The money for the check, came as a Christmas present, from my employer and my wife. Who both paid $9,000 each, toward my purchase of the new pickup.
Then, at closing, I was offered GM's 0% intrest rate on a four year note, with $6,000 down, the payments would have been $300 per month.
Sure was tempting, but gave them the check, got the keys, and waved bye bye....
Walte0
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