Ruger Mark II - Sharp Edges
I bought a used Mark II .22 pistol yesterday in stainless steel (excellent condition 98% or so).
Haven't shot it yet, but it has a lot of sharp edges.
Would it be a sin to do a little light buffing with a craytex wheel on some select spots?
It's kinda rough on your fingers pulling the bolt back.
I don't want to hurt its value.
Haven't shot it yet, but it has a lot of sharp edges.
Would it be a sin to do a little light buffing with a craytex wheel on some select spots?
It's kinda rough on your fingers pulling the bolt back.
I don't want to hurt its value.
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Must agree with you. Guess Ruger is not up on stainless steel machining
or is in too much hurry to do a decent job.0 -
After you use them a while your fingers become tough. Its just like trying to reload the clips on the Mark I. Nasty little boogers but after using them for a few months your hands look like you work for a living.[:0][;)]
If its stainless you can buff it I guess but if its blued you screw up the finish.[:(]0 -
Lotsa folk on this board think that Rugers have no resale value anyway, so why not?
I use a jewelers file with a blind edge for almost all my 'smithin' and smoothin'.
Just don't go overboard on one specific spot and you'll be OK.0 -
Yep - Rugers (Mk I, II, and III's) do not have much resale value - but I have all three and like them!
... bottom line is the gun is yours and you are the shooter. What difference will it make in 50 years, anyway![:o)]0 -
It's stainless so I think I can smooth it up a bit without it being real noticible.
Is there a way to improve the bolt release so that you can activate it with your thumb?
I see a lot of aftermarket stuff for the Mark II. How can you tell if there were any upgrades already installed?0 -
Well, you bought it used; did you get a manual?
If not; email Ruger and get one,or be patient and someone's bound to post a link to one.
Looking at the manual, disassemble to the point you start to get uncomfortable with reassembly (it helps to have a digital camera to see exactly how that goes there & stuff).
CLEAN that gun as you have never cleaned a gun before. Wipe off each and every piece and part until it is almost like factory new. Look for sharp edges, burrs, machine/toolmarks, galling and bright spots where contact is made between pieces. Since you're going to grind away at the outside; you might as well take down any rough spots inside, too.
Polishing the contact points is an easy way to see if you can make the pieces interact more smoothly, but the slide release is a bit tricky; too much metal "smoothed" away might disable the hold-open feature or screw up the slide release.
I definitely think you should really get the interior free of grit/grime and see if that helps.0 -
I think the manual is online. I'll download it.
The outside corners need just a light rounding. I'm a little leary of attempting it with a dremel. I might try gluing fine emery paper to some flat wood sticks for some of it. Could also tape the adjacent areas with masking tape to catch any "oops" that occur. Tearing the pistol down would help.
I'd like to improve the trigger a little if possible without buying a new one. Can you tell if the trigger is adjustable by looking from the outside?0 -
Even the trigger on my Govt.Comp. Tgt. Model is non-adjustable; I don't think they made them to be tinkered with.
There's a plunger (wouldn't know how to start "tuning" that),and a crossbar (might be able to add a shim), but other than that; bupkus.0
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