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Rolled roofing expert needed!

11echo
Ok I have a garden shed with a 12'x 10' roof on it, pitched at 8 Deg.s
I have put on regular shingles before but not this rolled stuff. Was looking on the internet and only got confused! I need something with pic.s of what I'm suppose do, for me to get it right.
Having said that, and after talking to the "20yr. old dim-wit expert" at Home Depot! I have went back and re-read what I'm finding on the net. I have afew questions, hope an EXPERT can help me!!?
1. I have a metal drip-edge to put on, does it go over the tar paper or under? ...What is the best way to attach this drip-edge? ...Nail. glue, staple???
2. laying out the rolled roofing, do I put a "backing piece" at edge of roof like with regular shingles? (Backing piece on net described as 10" section cut from roll material and glued/nailed every 3" at edge ...then start with the rolled material over that (semi like the starter edge of regular shingles)).
3. I lay out the roll stuff, over hang the edge by 1/2" and over lap the rolls at least 2", now do I glue the edges? ...all edges or jut the leading edge? ...Do I nail the edges ...all 360 deg.s or just the leading? ...or leading and sides? The net indicates nailing every 10" here.
.SO am I warm here?? ...Or do I head back to the barn and get a beer and read some more?
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Comments

18 comments

Date Votes
  • Floyd621
    Did you get a roll of felt to go under it?
    What kind of roofing did you get, The green rock roofing?
    Rubber Head roofing nails are the best and get a can of tar to seal the seams with. Put the gutter between the felt and roofing on the edge,The Nail's or Screws are the best way to attact it. Overlap as you go up, That's the way I have always done it and it worked out o.k.
    Good Luck.
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  • Isurelkegns
    First lay down your felt on the bare roof that goes down before your drip edges lay out your felt like your going to do your roll roofing in over lapping sections then you do the roll roofing in sections just as you have it but you dont use glue get "Fiberized Roof Cement or Coating" make sure it is not just tar get the fiberized. For every section you roll out brush on a coat of the fiberized roof cement and then overlep the piece about 3" and brush more fiberized roof cement over the seam until roof is covered. Then go back with standard tube tar just like caulk and run a bead or 2 down the length of your drip edges where the drip edge meets the roll roofing. F.Y.I use roofing nails for the drip edges and roll roofing and button taps for your felt and your good to go and also if you use regualr anodized roofing nails make sure you take some of your tube tar from sealing the seems between your roofing and drip edges and drop and dot of it over the head of the nails and make sure it covers all the way around the nail head so it will seal good.
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  • tobefree
    Read this and you'll be the expert!!!
    http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/roof/maintenance/reshingle/install_1/asphalt_1.htm
    http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60280
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  • fishkiller41
    quote:Originally posted by tobefree
    Read this and you'll be the expert!!!
    http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/roof/maintenance/reshingle/install_1/asphalt_1.htm
    http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60280

    The roof in that pic. looks like SHEITE!!


    Jeff
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  • tobefree
    quote:Originally posted by fishkiller41
    quote:Originally posted by tobefree
    Read this and you'll be the expert!!!
    http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/roof/maintenance/reshingle/install_1/asphalt_1.htm
    http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60280

    The roof in that pic. looks like SHEITE!!


    Jeff


    yea I noticed that but the procedure is right!!!
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  • jwb267
    quote:Originally posted by Floyd621
    Did you get a roll of felt to go under it?
    What kind of roofing did you get, The green rock roofing?
    Rubber Head roofing nails are the best and get a can of tar to seal the seams with. Put the gutter between the felt and roofing on the edge,The Nail's or Screws are the best way to attact it. Overlap as you go up, That's the way I have always done it and it worked out o.k.
    Good Luck.


    ++11 except i always used roof cement on my drip edge and on my laps
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  • 11echo
    tobefree ...Man do you work at Home Depot too!!?? ...This link is for regular shingles! I'm asking about ROLLED ROOFING! ...You know the one big shingle like a roll of tar paper.

    Floyd621 ...Yes I have #15 felt ready to go. I have NOT gotten the roll yet.

    Isurelkegns ...I have a can of "Rubberized Asphalt Cement". That what you mean?
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  • tobefree
    quote:Originally posted by 11echo
    tobefree ...Man do you work at Home Depot too!!?? ...This link is for regular shingles! I'm asking about ROLLED ROOFING! ...You know the one big shingle like a roll of tar paper.

    Floyd621 ...Yes I have #15 felt ready to go. I have NOT gotten the roll yet.

    Isurelkegns ...I have a can of "Rubberized Asphalt Cement". That what you mean?


    Oh I see I thought people quit using that stuff in the fifties!!! Sorry!
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  • Isurelkegns
    No the rubberized asphalt coating is not the same as what I mean. Its on the aisle with the roll rooking in a green and black 5 gallon bucket. Its called Fiberized Roof Tar or Fiberized Roof Coating. Its what you use on roll roofing because it hardens up,if you just use tar the tar will heat up and stay sticky as the sun heats it all day and over time will actually become less effective as the hotter that tar gets the thinner its going to get and more its going to slide down that pitch the fiberized makes a hardened shell that sun wont turn back to tar. The rubberized asphalt coating MIGHT work but I have never used it for that I know the Fiberized is the best to use. I promise you write down what I said and get the fiberized roof coating and your roof will come out fine.
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  • Isurelkegns
    TOBEFREE sometimes you have to use roll roofing if your roof doesnt have enough pitch on it you cant use regular shingles.
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  • tobefree
    But then you ain't know damn smarter thatn me or you would have freaking GOOOOOOOOOOOOGLEd it!

    Many people want to install roll roofing due to the fact that roll roofing is an inexpensive alternative for many roofing needs. It is much more convenient and easy to install than other roofing choices. If you want to install roll roofing, then you will be happy to discover that there is only one sheet of roll roofing, compared to three layers in other roofs.

    Roll roofing is a suitable choice for roofing material because it can last between 6-12 years. It is made out of the same substance as shingles and installs with very little effort and in an expedient manner. If you want to re roof a shed, the choosing single layer roll roofing is recommended. You can use single roll roofing on a roof that has a flat roof, not one that has an inclined slope.

    Double Coverage

    If a roof is almost completely flat, then it is recommended that you use what is known as double coverage selvage. Before you install roll roofing, you should understand that this type of roofing is more delicate than other roofing materials. In fact, if the weather becomes too cold, it may crack or become damaged. If you wanted to install roll roofing in a cold climate, you can successfully accomplish this, as long as you warm the roof rolls first.

    It is very important to make sure that before you install roll roofing that you make sure that each piece is completely flat and that it is smooth. It isn't, or if your roll roofing has a dried puckered look or is curling, then you will need to straighten it.

    You can accomplish this by straightening out the pieces and then cutting them into sheets that are between 12 or 18 feet in length. After you successfully cut the pieces, you can stack them so that they will dry. It should take anywhere between sixty minutes to one hour for your cut pieces to return to a completely flat state.

    Install Roll Roofing: Step by Step

    It isn't essential that you use underlayment underneath your roll roofing, but it is suggested. By using underlayment you will protect the surface and extend the life of your roll roof. So, before you install roll roofing, consider using an underlayment.

    The second step when you install roll roofing is to apply the Starter Strip. To do this, you begin by cutting a strip that is 17 inches_ wide. Next, apply a layer of roofing cement along the eaves of your roof. Lay down your 17 inch wide starter strip then used a roofer's roller to lay the starter strip flat. Next, you will nail two rows of nails at 12 inch intervals across the strip.

    Third Step To install roll roofing you will need to add the course. To do this, you will place the course over the starter strip that you just laid.

    Step 4 Now, you will nail the course with two rows of nails. The two rows should be 4 ? inches and 13 inches from the top of the course.

    Step 5Place your nails 12 inches apart and hammer.

    Step 6 Now you will roll back the roofing and coat it with a layer of roofing cement.

    Step 7 Sealing vertical overlaps is an important step when you install roll roofing. Make sure that the seams overlap by at least six inches. You will nail the sheet, keeping the nails at least 1 inch from the edge. Space the nails about four inches apart. To seal the overlap, spread a layer of roofing cement to cover the sheet. Next you will seal hips and ridges, and finally you will trim the rakes.
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  • tobefree
    If it can't be googled you don't need it!!!!
    they have every freaking thind them some more...
    even this... http://tinyurl.com/37jsdg
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  • Isurelkegns
    Was I being referred to with the "your no damn smarter than me comment" or was that because of the "do you work at home depot" comment? Just curious cause I wasnt testing knowledge of roofing but sometimes its still to this day more advisable to use roll roofing versus shingles to keep your decking in better shape.
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  • tobefree
    While you were googling did you pick up that rolled roofing is only effective on 2.5 pitches or more..or as they willtell you down at the home depot 11.77 degrees..
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  • competentone
    If you have already purchased the "rolled roofing" at Home Depot, you should probably return it. Chances are, it's junk.

    There is "rolled asphalt roofing" and there is "modified asphalt roofing" -- they both come in rolls and can look the same visually, but are very different materials. The "modified" can give you years of service; the "cheap asphalt" normally won't last longer than a few years.

    Home Depot and Lowes usually only sell the "cheap asphalt" rolled material, though that can vary by region/store.

    Modified asphalts are either torched down or applied with hot or cold asphalt as an adhesive (called a "mop" grade modified depending on how the specific product is designed). There are also "self-ashesive" modifieds that have a backing paper you peel off.

    Also consider Peel and Seal (brand name) a modified self-adhesive rolled material with an aluminum face. It's good stuff, but can be somewhat difficult to work with without experience.

    You can still use what you have; look at some of the installation guides for the modified in the links below and duplicate installation with the "cheap" material -- but if you use a quality material and install it properly, it can last 20+ years. Odds are the stuff you're using will be breaking up in around 5 years.


    Certainteed's low-slope materials:
    http://www.certainteed.com/CertainTeed/Pro/Builder/Roofing/Prodindex/LowSlopeProds/RoofMem/RPGroofingmembranesplash.htm

    Installation:
    http://www.certainteed.com/CertainTeed/Pro/Builder/Roofing/Installation/LowSlope/lowslopeinstallation.htm

    GAF has materials and some installation videos (but the site is poor):
    http://www.gaf.com/General/GafMain.asp?Silo=COMM&WS=GAF (You want to follow the links for the "low slope" "cold applied" material)

    This is the manufacture of Peel and Seal, but their site is pretty horrid:
    http://www.mfmbp.com/index.html
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  • gunnut505
    It's a freaking SHED, right?
    2 observations; If there's bare decking, and you want to add rolled roofing, you start at the drip edge (yes, it goes on first)and lay out the rolled roofing starting from the edge, and overlapping on your way to the top. Seal the top of each course with a 6" wide smear of fibered roofing cement, lay the next course, and then nail it down.

    2nd observation-NEVER let anyone sell you a "torchdown" roof! The clown (licensed roofer) that did mine swore it wouldn't leak for 5 years (that was LAST YEAR), and I've had to re-pooky the entire roof, the parapet, and all the roof jacks TWICE so far. Everytime it rains; I have to turn on the siphon pump to drain the roof, since the clown (licensed roofer) clogged off all the roof drains. And yes, he used the cheapest rolled roofing materials available. Didn't even pound down all the old nail heads.
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  • competentone
    quote:Originally posted by gunnut505
    2nd observation-NEVER let anyone sell you a "torchdown" roof! The clown (licensed roofer) that did mine swore it wouldn't leak for 5 years (that was LAST YEAR), and I've had to re-pooky the entire roof, the parapet, and all the roof jacks TWICE so far. Everytime it rains; I have to turn on the siphon pump to drain the roof, since the clown (licensed roofer) clogged off all the roof drains. And yes, he used the cheapest rolled roofing materials available. Didn't even pound down all the old nail heads.


    That is not any reflection on the material -- it is an example of a roofer who doesn't know what he is doing (state issued licenses mean nothing when it comes to most of the building trades).

    As for the idea that is "just a shed" -- with the implication that one "just slap anything on" -- it all depends on what is stored in the shed and when one wants to have to repair/replace the roof again.

    If done right with good materials, it may be a job good for the next 20+ years.
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  • gunnut505
    Actually,if he does it exactly as I said to; it will outlast 25-year shingles.
    The more shallow the angle of the roof; the wider the overlap must be.
    And if you nail after you pooky; the nails are self-sealed by the pooky.
    If he's not gonna scrape off the old shingles, he needs at least 80# roofing felt as an underlayment.
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