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Harley Question

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13 comments

  • EZRyder
    I just found a project bike in the paper and I know nothing about it, so I thought I'd ask you guys. It is a '69 sportster, fresh paint, rebuilt engine lots of new parts, twisted spoke wheels and origional wheels, triple tree wide glide fork system, retrofitted electric starter, rearend has been welded into a hard tail, all chrome looks new except for exhaust pipes, all other parts look minty fresh including motor, everything appears to be there except for the wiring harness. The engine is together but all the rest is in a basket.How much would you pay for something like this?Where can I find the wire harness for this bike with an electric starter?Where can I run a title check to make sure it's on the up and up?What questions can you think of that I should ask him?All opinions/knowledge are greatly appreciated.Thanks
    Dragon's Lair Fighting Arts, Dragon Style Wind Fist Kung Fu.
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  • EZRyder
    who has rode a rigid frame bike? i am thinking of buying a kit and building one out of a shovel. was wondering how they were on longer rides they look cool but seems to me they would beat you to death.
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  • EZRyder
    I'm trying to order a Clymers manual for my brother-in-laws 1995 Heritage Softtail and I need Harley's model designation for it (ie, FL something something something). It's been sitting for a couple years and I told him I'd get it running again for him. He already picked up a fresh battery for it, so I figure I'll drain out as much of the old gas as I can, put in fresh gas with a little fuel cleaner mixed in and hope the carbs aren't too gummed up. I'll change the oil and filter while I'm at it (I draw the line at washing it for him, tho[:)]). If anyone knows of anything in particular I should look at on it, let me know.

    Once I get it running OK, it will, of course, require repeated extended test rides to make sure its really OK[8D]
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  • rogue_rob
    I think the Heritage Softail Classic is the FLSTCL

    If it's a Springer: FLSTS


    You could put one of the "easy pull" clutches on it for him. I think they're about 45 bucks or so and an hour of work. Makes all the difference in the world when you're pulling the clutch.

    You might try adding some "Seafoam" to the fuel tank to get it cleaned up some.

    Make sure you check out the tires REAL good

    Belt Tension

    You could grease the wheel bearings too.....

    There's a lot to check out on that bike to make it safe if it's been sitting there for a few years.
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  • sig232
    quote:Originally posted by rogue_rob
    I think the Heritage Softail Classic is the FLSTCL

    If it's a Springer: FLSTS


    You could put one of the "easy pull" clutches on it for him. I think they're about 45 bucks or so and an hour of work. Makes all the difference in the world when you're pulling the clutch.

    You might try adding some "Seafoam" to the fuel tank to get it cleaned up some.

    Make sure you check out the tires REAL good

    Belt Tension

    You could grease the wheel bearings too.....

    There's a lot to check out on that bike to make it safe if it's been sitting there for a few years.



    To put in that "easy pull" clutch kit requires that you pull off the primary side of the engine case and the transmission cover on the other side. It requires that you pull off the clutch cover as you are putting in a new spring on top of the clutch pack.

    The good part is you can adjust the primary chain while the cover is off and replace the primary case with new gaskets and fresh oil.

    Now the tranny side will require you to take off the clutch cable at the tranny and replace the part it attached to. Its not hard but you will need to replace the gasket and fill the tranny with fresh oil to do it right.

    It cost a lot more than $45 since the gaskets are very expensive. You need a primary gasket, a clutch cover gasket and the tranny cover gasket.

    I would change the engine oil and filter if my bike sat that long and I was doing the work in the other areas specified.

    I spent a good half day doing mine since it was the first time I had it apart and I did the primary adjustment.

    You will need a in lb torque wench to do the job right.

    Suggest you clean out the carb floats since the gas could be turned to a gel by now. I beleive there is a gas filter at the tank output also, check the manual. Buy the manual from Harley to insure that you do the job correctly. Its worth the money and all Harley owners should have that manual to know how to perform service correctly.

    You are looking at a $100 bill for the work done above. If you don't want to spend the money just replace the fuel and pray it will start and run fine. I agree that you need to run your hands all over the tires to insue you don't have any unsafe spots on the tires.
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  • COLT
    ...Harley manual? Eeeww! The one I had detailed every little part, and how & what order to dissassemble the part(s). As for putting the part back together, it said "reverse take down procedure" no chit!!!!...and I am not to mechanicaly inclined on internal combustion anything, guns are easy, engines are not; for me anyways...[:D]


    ani-texas-flag-1.gif
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  • sig232
    There is nothing hard about servicing a Harley.

    The work Rob suggested is not hard and you are not digging very far into the engine or tranny. But it is time consuming and If you don't enjoy doing mechanical work I would suggest you see your dealer.

    Harley dealers are like going to the Mercedes dealer. Its an arm and a leg for service anymore. $250-500 is not unusual nowdays. That why I do all my service.

    If the engine blows or the tranny pops a gear I will go to the dealer but for general service I picked up the Harley manual and taught myself how to do the work.
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  • LesWVa
    When you get it right. Store it in a safe place..[8D]

    piggy.jpg
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  • rogue_rob
    quote:Originally posted by sig232
    quote:Originally posted by rogue_rob
    I think the Heritage Softail Classic is the FLSTCL

    If it's a Springer: FLSTS


    You could put one of the "easy pull" clutches on it for him. I think they're about 45 bucks or so and an hour of work. Makes all the difference in the world when you're pulling the clutch.

    You might try adding some "Seafoam" to the fuel tank to get it cleaned up some.

    Make sure you check out the tires REAL good

    Belt Tension

    You could grease the wheel bearings too.....

    There's a lot to check out on that bike to make it safe if it's been sitting there for a few years.



    To put in that "easy pull" clutch kit requires that you pull off the primary side of the engine case and the transmission cover on the other side. It requires that you pull off the clutch cover as you are putting in a new spring on top of the clutch pack.

    The good part is you can adjust the primary chain while the cover is off and replace the primary case with new gaskets and fresh oil.

    Now the tranny side will require you to take off the clutch cable at the tranny and replace the part it attached to. Its not hard but you will need to replace the gasket and fill the tranny with fresh oil to do it right.

    It cost a lot more than $45 since the gaskets are very expensive. You need a primary gasket, a clutch cover gasket and the tranny cover gasket.

    I would change the engine oil and filter if my bike sat that long and I was doing the work in the other areas specified.

    I spent a good half day doing mine since it was the first time I had it apart and I did the primary adjustment.

    You will need a in lb torque wench to do the job right.

    Suggest you clean out the carb floats since the gas could be turned to a gel by now. I beleive there is a gas filter at the tank output also, check the manual. Buy the manual from Harley to insure that you do the job correctly. Its worth the money and all Harley owners should have that manual to know how to perform service correctly.

    You are looking at a $100 bill for the work done above. If you don't want to spend the money just replace the fuel and pray it will start and run fine. I agree that you need to run your hands all over the tires to insue you don't have any unsafe spots on the tires.





    that spring you're talking about will "fit" into the derby cover hole[:)] you just have to flex it a little bit and be careful not to scratch the paint/chrome of the primary. The mod makes a world of difference!

    I put one on Mrs Rogue's 99 lowrider. It was a tight fit but I got it in there. No removing the primary cover.

    Good advice on the other stuff though[8D]
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  • EZRyder
    Thanks Guys,

    I'll look into getting a factory manual. Are they reasonably user friendly? I have a factory manual and a Haynes manual for my BMW and have found that the factory manual is fairly useless. I don't remember the clutch effort as being that bad (I rode it once a few years back) but I'll remember there is a easy pull option if we find it to be a problem. I've checked the tires and they seem OK, but we will probably go ahead and replace them based on age. It has at least been stored inside. It's been maybe two years since it's been run, so I'm mostly concerned about the fuel. I don't want to get into the carbs unless I have to. I will change the engine & trans oil & flush the brakes.
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  • Warpig883
    My factory HD service manual is very good. Makes the clymer and chilton manuals a joke.
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  • pickenup
    quote:Originally posted by badwrench
    Look into a factory manual. You might pay a little more for it, but it is worth the extra.
    +1
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  • dheffley
    Go with the Harley Shop Manual. They are absolutely the best!
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