Need advice on driveshafts for a Dodge
I have a 03 Dodge dually 4x4. I can't keep universals joints in the drive shafts. I need new ones again for the 3rd time at 80K. I have one bad one in the back. One on the front and the both cv joints are out on the front axle as well.
Anyone else have this problem. Is it true that I can't just replace the joint on the front axle? That I have to buy the whole assembly.
I haul alot with this truck, but it was made for it. So what's going on? Is there something I can do to keep this from happening?
I want to thank every one in advance. You guys are a gold mine of knowledge. From everything to guns to trucks and I really appreciate all of you for all your help now and in the past.
Thanks
Traci
Anyone else have this problem. Is it true that I can't just replace the joint on the front axle? That I have to buy the whole assembly.
I haul alot with this truck, but it was made for it. So what's going on? Is there something I can do to keep this from happening?
I want to thank every one in advance. You guys are a gold mine of knowledge. From everything to guns to trucks and I really appreciate all of you for all your help now and in the past.
Thanks
Traci
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Is your truck higher then it would have been out of the factory? This could be a man cause of U joints going bad. Factory U joints can usually only handle about 5-7 degrees of incline or less. There are some shafts on the market that are designed for a slightly larger incline. Another thing that can help, since I believe you live out in the country on good old Indiana dirt roads. You should probably grease them at least 2 times a year. 0 -
The truck is stock height. It does have some engine mods and is a 6 spd.
All the bearings I mention a sealed, so I can't gease them. I thought about finding ones with zerks, but my dad recommended I didn't because their weaker and I tow some fairly heavy loads at times.0 -
It may have to do with the engine mods and how you drive it...[;)] I have an 02 with over 180,000 miles and I've replaced mine (the rear joint) once. 0 -
Do you do much towing with yours Eric? I always take off slow. I do that because of fuel. It's alot better if I'm slow at starts. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Cutiegirlracing
Do you do much towing with yours Eric? I always take off slow. I do that because of fuel. It's alot better if I'm slow at starts.
For the first 160,000+ miles I did...I have not been towing much for the last year or so. Do you accelerate hard...or shift hard? It may be a mixture of your particular driving habits and the extra horses your truck is putting out.?.? I don't know...just tossing out ideas here.0 -
Trade it in on a GMC!!!
[8D][8D]0 -
This is nearly always a problem related to abrupt clutch engagement.
You might try double clutching when you have a heavy load, also.
Doug0 -
What's double clutching. I've heard about it before, but I don't know how it's done. 0 -
[8D]--Yo CGR, I've dad 4 Dodge 4wds and on each one I had to lengthen the front driveshaft and Shim the rear differential, which is standard practice,BUT you have to have the Xfer case/transmission REAR housing mounts(tight) and in non-compressed (good) condition-the shafts have to be in horizontal ALIGNMENT, this will alow a few degrees off in pinion inclination--CHECKITOUT--
----JIMBO0 -
It's been years since I have had to use the double clutching technique.
I don't want to do a cop out on you, but I suggest you speak to one of your friends who drives an 18 wheeler, or email GRD.
I could tell you how, but I might get it wrong.
Doug0 -
CG -
The GM comment... Dodge uses American Axle. So does GM, other than that they use IFS on GM light trucks and Dodge doesn't. Not on 2500's and up anyway.
Your problem? Dodge experienced a vendor problem with some bearings and components. Greasable U-joints are, in fact, weaker as your father has suggested. Buy good ones and make sure they're well lubed before you install them.
As far as I know the CV's are nothing special, though you'll swear a bit trying to get at them. I don't think they're unlike the Dana setup. We've done the Dana's many times and it's not really that expensive if you can do your own work. Otherwise big dollars.
Double clutch? That's why we have synchronizers. Don't pay heed to the suggestion as it will neither help, nor hurt.
If you run in 4X4 mode on hard surfaces, then you'll tear up tires and drive components. Running through deep water and mud will cause problems.
If you've added too much torque with engine upgrades, then you better get real good at replacing components. If you're somewhat careful and don't do too much of the above, then I expect good MOOG or similar components will serve you well.
You have one of the finest towing vehicles on the market. The running gear is very tough, but that 'ol Cummins can easily excede design limitations. Too much torque on components is sure to cause failure.
Just how much have you uprated the engine? (I assume a HO to begin with.) Send me a mail and I'll direct you to some very smart folks.
nordata@earthlink.net0 -
my truck is a 05 , 3500 , 6sp , replaced the rear u joint at 38,000, mech said biggest problem with them is that they are a sealed unit , i would put in a heavy duty greaseable one and see how it does 0 -
They are no doubt considerably different, but I purchased a Dodge Ramcharger new in Jan 1978. The chassis had about 11 zirks, including the U-joints, which I regularly greased along with the oil change. There were no problems until it had about 30K. Then the rear drive line U joint would only last about 6 months. At about 50K the CV unit in the front line went out. I took the truck to a local drive line company. In addition to replacing the CV unit, they spun and balanced the drive lines and shimmed,etc the pieces when they put the lines back together. That was about 1984 and those joints were the same ones that were in it when I traded it to my son about four years ago. He has since traded it away, so I don't have current info on it; but taking it to a place that knew what they were doing and willing to spend the time to get things balanced and lined-up made a world of difference. 0 -
Traci; Nothin against your pop, but, you have tried the "sealed" ones.(obviously)Now, what U need to do, is replace them with ones that can be serviced(greased). I suspect that with a few pumps of grease, every 6 mo. you'll be rollin along with no problems.[;)]
Jeff0 -
I would find a shop that specializes in drivelines. They should be able to get you heavier transmission and differential yokes and make drivelines that will take bigger u-joints. I don't know what you can do about the axle cv joints. Maybe the driveline people can get heaiver ones? Are you thrashin on that thing in four wheel drive? 0 -
quote:Originally posted by MT357
I would find a shop that specializes in drivelines. They should be able to get you heavier transmission and differential yokes and make drivelines that will take bigger u-joints. I don't know what you can do about the axle cv joints. Maybe the driveline people can get heaiver ones? Are you thrashin on that thing in four wheel drive?
Great idea... If you have a few extra THOUSAND bucks layin around...
Get U-Joints, with ZERKS!!!0 -
i would try greaseable joints.....unless your are dropping the clutch drag racing you would never break a u joint......all the u joints on my farm machinery are greaseable and similar size as automotive ones but get a lot more torque through them than you will ever put with your pickup my peterbilt with 500 hp cat has greaseable u joints granted they are bigger joints but 500hp cat puts out some major torque.....who is putting them in for you? 0 -
I agree with Nord in that double clutching is not the answer as Light Truck transmissions do have syncro's that make double clutching niether help nor hurt. Big truck transmissions do not have those syncro's which is why double clutching works on them.
My first guess would be to check the balance on the drive line as that is a major killer of U-joints!
You could do a self inspection to see if the factory tack welded weights have fallen off but if it has been a while you may not be able to tell.
A driveline shop would be the best bet to check this.
Also if you are realesing the clutch too quickly it could be putting extra strain on those joints (much like if you added a shift kit to an auto trans) by enguageing the gears much harder. But normally this is felt in the cab as you are driving. So unless you are feeling a slight jerk I doubt that this would be it.
Another self check you can preform is look at the pinion seal (where the driveline conects to the rear end) and see if there is any seepage or play in the bearing. If there is you may have a bearing that is bad and causeing the same effect as an out of balance drive line.
I am not convinced that greasable U-joints are weaker than sealed! 18 Wheelers have allways used greasable U-joints! And with the heavy weights they are hauling and the way most of the truck driving school wonders drive today if they were weaker the big trucks would be haveing more problems if they were and the manufacturers would have gone to a sealed type U-joint. Personally I allways install greasable U-joints if I need to replace them (which has only been a couple times in my life).0 -
just from experiance try to find ones made in U.S.A. or germany. parts stores are carring alot of imports from china and mexico and they are potmetal and won't last 0 -
If you're running a turbo Diesel, I discovered a way to break drivelines: use the wrong oil - if it calls for 10-40, and you put in 10-30 oil, the turbo will overboost - gives great performance, as long as the u-joints and diff last, but will break things almost at will. 0 -
Sorry Handload, but NO!
Lubrication (other than keeping the bearings lubed) has absolutely nothing to do with boost. Boost is controlled by a wastegate. Depending on which generation of truck you might be referring to, it will be either mechanically or electronically controlled.
Any Cummins approved oil will be just fine in our engines. Some will allow for easier cold starts and maybe a slight increase in economy, but that's about the extent of it. In any case the oil merely lubricates and cools the turbo bearings.
Since boost is a product of exhaust gases being run through the turbo, it might follow that more fuel will result in increased potential boost. This task is accomplished with a chip on the electronic systems and a valve on the mechanical ones.
Increase fuel and air into a diesel engine and torque and horsepower are increased. In the case of our Cummins it seems that the sky is the limit... At the expense of our drivetrain components.
Sorry, but that's the way it is.0 -
Yep - I "Proved it" in my 1994 GM 6.5 Diesel Turbo - It broke two rear ends in a row, less than 4 years between, and only about 20k miles. I just put in 15-50 oil, and you can not hear the turbo winding up to the upper octaves like it did with 10-30 oil. Performance is also less - ergo - less boost. I was overboosting it, and the 10- bolt GM piece O' Chit limited slip rear end couldn't take it. Now have a 14-bolt rear end in, and will change to 10-30 weight after the upcoming 3K miles plus tow into the desert SouthWest. 0 -
I agree that with the newer boost limit software/servos, or with freestanding systems that are faster responding than the one in my '94, it is not related, but Since I no longer hear the turbo winding up so high, I know it was boosting harder with the lighter oil, since the turbo in my unit is oil-lubed sleeve bearing. 0 -
Use duct tape. 0 -
I've been inspecting and thinking about my problem. I think the front univeral and the cv joint in the axle went out due to lack of lubercation. They are sealed.
I think I broke the back one when I was pulling a tree out. I hear a loud pop, but couldn't see anything wrong. It did have alot of mud under it so I couldn't tell.
I've broke them before and it made the same sound, but in that case the driveshaft fell out.
I think GRD is right. I don't like to let my clutch slip, so I'm quick on the clutch.
I think I'm going to get greaseable joints and change my driving style. If They go out again. I'm going to give the F550 a serious look.0 -
F-550? Buy a Ford F-350, better drivetrain then a Dodge.. 0 -
I've competed in a few truck pulls. I know it's not good for my truck and maybe it's why I've broke a few joints. I never get on it too hard and I usually pull in 2wd so it doesn't even effect my front end. I'm not really in it to win, there's too many built trucks out there in my class. So I don't have a chance. I just think it's fun.
Well anyway Fords never do well in these pulls. Only reason I think a 550 over a 350 is it's a heavier truck. Maybe part of my problem is I need a bigger truck. I couldn't enter anymore truck pulls with a 2ton dually, but I think It wouldn't do that well anyway. I think for my purpose it would do okay though.0 -
I would seek out the advise of a drive-line shop. Tell them your problem and that you don't have a lot to spend. My experience is that mechanics are just part replacer, but a shop that specializes in drive-shafts will have to knowledge and experience to know what the correct fix will be.
It may be that since you upped the horsepower you will have to up the size/strength of your drive-line.
PS: According to my drive-line guy the no zerk and zerk u joints do not differ in strength. Its just that no zerks are slightly cheaper that the others.0 -
CGR you sound like my kinda gal!...pulling things, breaking things and racing things[8D]
someday when i get rich i would love to build me one of these[:D]
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