bleeding brakes
broken brake line, ran new line now the bleeder wont loosen up. wd40 still won't loosen, any suggestions?[B)]
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Vice grips and new bleeder valve.
That don't work? New caliper or assembly.0 -
heat applied very carefully and a gentle turn of the wrench. usual break anyway. replace cylinder/caliper 0 -
Is it a disc caliper? You may have to take it off. Let it soak with Kano Kroil or equiv. overnight. If you break it off, you can try an easy-out. Worst case, you would have to get a reman. caliper. 0 -
Most calibers are not very expensive. Might call around and price some. 0 -
its on a rear cylinder and the way its made its recessed to where just the tip sticks out . i'll try heat, thanks guys, i hate working on brakes[xx(] 0 -
P B BLASTER
Jeff0 -
Let's be careful with the heat, I've seen them blow with a fair amount of flames and hot oil. Than there are the rubber seals inside of the cylinder that can be damaged. 2 bolts and a brake line are all you need to remove in order to remove the wheel cylinder.
Your eyes or your money, it's your choice.0 -
VERY CAREFUL WITH THE HEAT....you can overpressurize that line quickly. 0 -
maybe i'll just go get a new wheel cylinder, i need me eyes to see mates thanks[;)] 0 -
quote:Originally posted by fishkiller41
P B BLASTER
Jeff
exactly, spray it a couple times a day for a few days and see if that loosens it ups. If it doesn't get a new cylinder [V].0 -
yup, rear wheel cylinders are fairly inexpensive, just replace it. 0 -
Geesh guys disconnect the freaking line then use heat..when valve works put the line back in place!!! 0 -
wear goggles too!!! which you should be doing anyway!!! 0 -
Do what I do. Take it to your favorite mechanic. I decided years ago that I work on guns and not automobiles. I hate crawling under one. However, I do tinker with my old tractor and enjoy that. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by sarge_3ad
Do what I do. Take it to your favorite mechanic. I decided years ago that I work on guns and not automobiles. I hate crawling under one. However, I do tinker with my old tractor and enjoy that.
yea and that tractor don't have to stop from 70 mph!!!0 -
Take the line off. Heat the area around the bleeder with a torch with a small tip. If the bleeder is rounded off, use vice grips and turn it out. If it isn't rounded off, use a 6 point socket. Easy fix really, I've done it hundreds of times on forklifts around here. P.S. DONT FORGET TO TAKE THE LINE OFF OR YOU WILL EXPERIENCE MORE PROBLEMS WHEN HEATING IT. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by forkliftking
Take the line off. Heat the area around the bleeder with a torch with a small tip. If the bleeder is rounded off, use vice grips and turn it out. If it isn't rounded off, use a 6 point socket. Easy fix really, I've done it hundreds of times on forklifts around here. P.S. DONT FORGET TO TAKE THE LINE OFF OR YOU WILL EXPERIENCE MORE PROBLEMS WHEN HEATING IT.
Well that's two votes!!!0 -
Oh yea it don't take that much heat 250 degrees should do it... ferrous metals expand fully at about that temp!!! 0 -
There are three easy steps for this repair-
Step 1) Take old wheel cylinder off.
Step two) Throw old wheel cylinder in the trash.
Step three) Buy and install new wheel cylinder.
Buying a new wheel cylinder is the cheapest and easist way around this problem.0 -
quote:Originally posted by rdcinmn
There are three easy steps for this repair-
Step 1) Take old wheel cylinder off.
Step two) Throw old wheel cylinder in the trash.
Step three) Buy and install new wheel cylinder.
Buying a new wheel cylinder is the cheapest and easist way around this problem.
Why, my method will only cost about $1.00 for a new bleeder and only takes about 2 minutes. If the bleeder screw isn't broken off, it can be resued. Cost $0.00 and time 2 minutes max. I guess some people on here just aren't that mechanically minded.0 -
got it fellas. used a little heat with line off broke loose right away. thanks for all input[:D] 0 -
Next time, take a 1/4 drive socket, make sure it fits the bleeder. 'bump' it towards the 'tighten' side. then, get in in reverse mode, and whack it quick. 99% of the time it works for me. otherwise, little heat works wonders..... 0 -
i just read this post and see you got it loose....
heat cab do wonders for getting things loose....done it many times.
little trick some may not know about....example nut and bolt really rusted....heat nut and exposed threads till red then quench with cold water...do not try to loosen while hot that will only weld threads together......cooling with water after cherry red turns rust to graphite like stuff and will come loose without tearing threads....if doesnt work first time try it again....this also works for many other things...0 -
I'm glad you got it off...As a experienced ASE certified Master Tech, I would never use heat on a brake component.
Replacing it is the best, safest and quickest way in my book.0 -
quote:Originally posted by rovrman
I'm glad you got it off...As a experienced ASE certified Master Tech, I would never use heat on a brake component.
Replacing it is the best, safest and quickest way in my book.
+1[:)]0 -
quote:Originally posted by rovrman
I'm glad you got it off...As a experienced ASE certified Master Tech, I would never use heat on a brake component.
Replacing it is the best, safest and quickest way in my book.
i know rovrman, but in a pinch in hardtimes i've found that alot of fellows on here know ways to get on by, not that its the right thing to do , but sometimes the cheapest that your looking for. anyway it worked quick,i'll remember these tricks and use them when i have to make do. all this truck has to do is haul wood from the stockpile. thanks for your advice though[;)][8D]0 -
Now that your done you can come do the one on the rear of my truck that has been waiting for me for the last two weeks. I HATE working on brakes.[}:)] 0 -
Tomahawk: if ever this happens again (frozen bleeder valve) simply loosen the break line nut where it goes into the caliper, and bleed from there. Probably wont know the difference vis-a-vis brake pedal feel. Best, Joe 0 -
quote:Originally posted by rovrman
I'm glad you got it off...As a experienced ASE certified Master Tech, I would never use heat on a brake component.
Replacing it is the best, safest and quickest way in my book.
as an experienced ASE certified Master Tech....how do you on a vehicle get a brake line loose from brake cylinder that when you put flare nut wrench on it and you can see its just going to round off the nut?
like another member posted ....a little heat and they will come loose without damaging a thing you don't have to heat it red hot..
Doc
ASE certified Diesel mechanic.
graduated right at the top of my class in 1987[;)]0
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