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Re-Loading Question?

divebomb
I've been considering learning how to re-load.
I was pretty set on it because I shoot allot of 50 bmg, and .416
I thought these would be good choices because of the cost per box.
A good frieind, but not a firearm enthusiast brought up the thought that what if I screw it up, and destroy one of my guns not only would that suck because of the replacement cost of the gun, but that it would also might make me not so keen on the idea of reloading, and there for all the equipment might be a wast.
My first thought was no way, but then on the way home, I started thinking, he sort of has a point.

So my question is with all your experience reloading, what round is the best to start with to gain experience and is also a good round to reload from a economicl stand point.

If I destroy a 500$ gun, I could live with that, but Id be really bummed if I destroyed a 5000$ gun.

Im interested in reloading any longrifle or pistlol but not shotguns.

thanks for any input.
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Comments

19 comments

Date Votes
  • oldemagics
    get a quality re-loading manual and start with a lower power load from that. it will be a conservative load and you can slowly work up to "hot" loads if you want after getting comfortable with the process.
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  • Permanently deleted user
    I would not be concerned with "destroying a gun"...I'd be worried about killing yourself in the process. Reloading must be taken seriously, but can be fun and is extremely addictive. Once you experience the accuracy of handloads, you will never go back. I would suggest starting with the .416 or your .50 BMG...it doesn't matter what caliber you start with...just make sure you read several reloading manuals first and follow the procedures to a "T". RCBS makes a specific press for the .50 BMG that can be used for other calibers as well. It would be ideal for the .50 and your .416. Check out the reloading forum...
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  • nemesisenforcer
    Logistically, there is no difference between reloading a 223 and a 50 BMG. Decap, resize, reprime, charge, seat bullet. The process is the same regardless of caliber. The precautions you take should be the same whatever you're reloading.
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  • divebomb
    I appriciate your feedback and thoughts, thank you.
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  • ljwrench
    I feel your pain. I just bought a Lee Anniversary reloading kit and the .223 dies. I'm nervous as all get out about getting started. Bought a couple of reloading books and have been educating myself. I think I'm going to call my gunsmith who reloads and have him load a few with me to get started. I'm cleaning out a corner of my pole barn and building a reloading bench. I think it will be fun but a little nervous also. Good luck.
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  • LesWVa
    Oldemagics
    Not to high jack the thread. But another question on reloading.

    Take a person new to reloading or thinking about getting into it.

    Say for example a .308 Winchester.

    Would it be better for a person to purchase a bulk of new, say 50 or 100 primed Winchester .308 brass to get started with rather than doing the full process of reloading? It seems to me that it would take a lot of the worries off of the first time reloader.

    I know that the cost will be a little higher doing it that way. But learning to measure powder and seating bullets properly could be concentrated on more if one was to used primed brass to begin with.
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  • Permanently deleted user
    quote:Originally posted by LesWVa
    Oldemagics
    Not to high jack the thread. But another question on reloading.

    Take a person new to reloading or thinking about getting into it.

    Say for example a .308 Winchester.

    Would it be better for a person to purchase a bulk of new, say 50 or 100 primed Winchester .308 brass to get started with rather than doing the full process of reloading? It seems to me that it would take a lot of the worries off of the first time reloader.

    I know that the cost will be a little higher doing it that way. But learning to measure powder and seating bullets properly could be concentrated on more if one was to used primed brass to begin with.




    I would recommend starting with unprimed brass and learning the entire process...from start to finish. Seating primers is not difficult. Check out the reloading forum folks. There are some VERY knowledgeable folks there!...and they are willing to answer any questions you may have. Feel free to post here too, but you may get better answers over there.
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  • ljwrench
    Ditto on what ECC said. Before I bought my equipment I asked some questions on the reloading forum and it really helped me make a decision on what to start out with. I also just read what other people were asking and that helped also.
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  • iceracerx
    I don't know what part of the country you hail from, but the NRA offers Re-Loading classes. Check this web site.

    http://www.nrahq.org/education/training/find.asp
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  • divebomb
    thanks for the link, zero in my state, but several offerd to the east and the west, Montana and Oregon. Deffinatly takeing some classes on reloading is something I am going to look into. I learn best by example, seeing someone do it works a thousand times better with me than reading about it.
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  • Highball
    New brass really should be resized before loading, also. There often will be damaged necks, ect., that need to be ironed out.

    I have been reloading for 45 years. Blew an extractor out one time. Had a case separate another time. Have had a primer or two leak.

    Still have all fingers, required number of eyes, ect....

    The absolute main thing is...DO NOT LOAD MAXIMUM...at least until you know what you are looking at. Do NOT load below the minimums recommended in the manuals..and get SEVERAL manuals.

    Jumping in to the .50 is kinda like jumping into the deep end of the pool..everything is sorta magnified. Take the primers, for instance. Geting a large rifle primer 'caught' in the priming arm makes a 'bang' happen..you are wearing glasses, (surely you are) no big deal.
    Get that big .50 primer set off...and you will sustain personal damage.

    What I am saying is..loading a thousand or so .223 or 30-06 is really valuble training.
    Watching somebody that knows what they are doing will give you a running head start on this rewarding pastime.
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  • divebomb
    I think I am with your mindset Highball.
    I think the best thing is to watch a few times and then start out by trying a few thousand .223s just to get the feel. and to asses my ability.
    I can see how its all the same, in terms of the process.
    I think best for me is to do 223s, then maybe 308, and finalythe 416's and 50s.
    my ultimat goal is 416 and 50 but I think i should start small and work up. I dont really want to reload 223, but I think in the end the experiance will be well worth it.
    Thanks for all inputs! and any and all new input is welcom and appriciated also[8D]
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  • GUNFUNCO
    If you can follow a recipe in a cookbook, you should be able to reload.

    There is no reason that you should blow up a gun unless you are careless.

    I would take a class or find someone in your area to show you the ropes, if possible. An older gent (bullseye shooter) I met at a local range showed me how when I was just getting into handguns.
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  • dakotashooter2
    Actually reloading makes us more concious of the dangers of shooting a firearm. While factory ammunition is good quality occasionally some problem stuff slips through. The non-reloading may not immediately recognize such a problem and continue shooting while a reloader will generally pick up on it immediately. While most reloaders are confident in their ammo they are also more alert to potential problems thus adding some safety to the whole process.
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  • Permanently deleted user
    quote:Originally posted by dakotashooter2
    Actually reloading makes us more concious of the dangers of shooting a firearm. While factory ammunition is good quality occasionally some problem stuff slips through. The non-reloading may not immediately recognize such a problem and continue shooting while a reloader will generally pick up on it immediately. While most reloaders are confident in their ammo they are also more alert to potential problems thus adding some safety to the whole process.



    This is very true.
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  • divebomb
    I appriciate all your comments. Im really looking forward to getting into reloading. after reading your comments, I feel a little more confident about reloading.
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  • phillip
    http://www.falfiles.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=22 check this out if you need more info.
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  • HandgunHTR52
    divebomb - talk to some people that you shoot with and find out if they reload. If they do, ask if you can reload with them or have them come to your place and reload with you.
    If that isn't an option, get the book "The ABCs of Reloading". It is a great reference manual.

    http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading/dp/0873498518/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-0982105-9695220?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1190772248&sr=8-1
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  • v35
    One of the main dangerous errors in handloading is loading a double charge. That's not likely in your examples because a full charge will fill the cases.
    Another, is inadvertantly loading the wrong and faster powder.
    Keeping only one powder on the bench at a time will help prevent that as well as prevent emptying the powder measure into the wrong can.
    Only use published loads, including the published primer and bullet for that load. Don't guess.
    The operations involved in handloading are very simple but you cannot
    let your mind drift off what you're doing or you'll make mistakes.
    Start right off with your two calibers. Loading is easy.
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