Shelf life of automobile oil

joeaf1911a1

March 07, 2007 13:33

Was just given 3 cases of Valvoline 10-30 oil. Metal tops, cardboard cans and plastic bottoms. Looks like it seperated a bit as some darker oil comes out last when pouring it. Dont know how old or whether or not to use it. Just shake it well prior to using, or throw it out ??. None of the cans leaked and is still in the original cartons.

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  Jacob2008

  March 07, 2007 13:35

  well, i dont see a problem, Then again im a redneck [:D][:D][:D]
  
  
  playing about the redneck thing, but i really wouldnt know of a problem unless it would scratch it so bad it wouldnt work

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  PJ

  March 07, 2007 14:05

  Think about how many millions of years it was in the ground!
  Pete

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  catpealer111

  March 07, 2007 14:25

  I wouldn't run it in you vehicle, but in an old lawn mower, tiller, three wheeler, etc it should be just fine. Another option is find a collector of old automobile paraphernalia and sell it and make a little money.

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  big mango

  March 07, 2007 14:31

  put it on pancakes , UUUM UMMMM UM Good.

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  Warpig883

  March 07, 2007 14:58

  I would use it

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  kristov

  March 07, 2007 15:09

  In a properly sealed container (IE un opened in the new plastic style containers) motor oil is designed for a shelf life of two years but will in fact last for at least five. The probelem with the old paper cans with the metal tops was that moisture would work it's way into the paper and then cause the underside of the metal lid to rust, thereby contaminating the oil. As time goes by the heavier particles of contamination will sink down to the bottom of the can where the oil's detergents will react with them causing the oil to turn darker in color. It sounds to me like this is exactly what has happened with your oil. Personally I would not use that oil in my car but it's use in something like a lawn mower is not out of the question. The moisture contamination problem is just one of the reasons that the old paper cans were dropped in favor of the new plastic types.

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  Warpig883

  March 07, 2007 15:14

  I thought they got rid of them after a bunch of defective ones started exploding.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  It even happened on film. Watch The Jerk with Steve Martin and you will see what I am talking about.

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  MN Hunter

  March 07, 2007 15:54

  quote:Originally posted by Warpig883
  I thought they got rid of them after a bunch of defective ones started exploding.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  it even happened on film. Watch The Jerk with Steve Martin and you will see what I am talking about.
  
  
  [:D][:D][:D]
  
  one of the all-time greats!

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  Teamblue

  March 07, 2007 16:37

  The only thing I would be wary of is the API rating of the oil. This should be printed on the container somewhere. It is a two letter code that begins with "S". This is the current breakdown:
  
  SL - Current - For all automotive engines presently in use.
  SJ - Current - For 2001 and older automotive engines.
  SH - Obsolete - For 1996 and older engines.
  SG - Obsolete - For 1993 and older engines.
  SF - Obsolete - For 1988 and older engines.
  SE - Obsolete - For 1979 and older engines.
  SD - Obsolete - For 1971 and older engines.
  SC - Obsolete - For 1967 and older engines.
  SB - Obsolete - For older engines.
  SA - Obsolete - For older engines.
  
  The two oldest categories, "SB" and "SA," should be used only when specifically recommended by the manufacturer. Realistically, if you go shopping at the local auto parts store, you will probably find only oil with the latest ratings. And for those of you with diesel engines, there is a separate rating system, starting with the letter "C" for Combustion Ignition. The diesel ratings are more involved, so it's best to consult your owner's manual or operating manual to make sure you have the correct oil in the crankcase.
  
  FYI.
  
  TB

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