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tool for removing main bearing

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18 comments

  • Colt Super
    NAPA will know.

    Doug
    0
  • cowdoc
    cotter key of right size will do it
    0
  • dlrjj
    quote:Originally posted by Kimbercolt
    back in the 70's my dad had these little parts, with the oil pan removed you could remove the main bearing, when you took the cap off, you have one part of the bearing, next you would rotate the crank, once you had a oil hole, yoiu inserted the pin looking item, next you would rotate the crank, the bearing would roll out, you would have the new bearing, you would rotate the crank, rolling the bearing in place. my problem is I cant remember what they were call.
    my dad stuff is long gone.
    can anyone remember what there called and where I can find them.
    I have used a cut off nail for the job. Just make sure the head is larger than the oil hole and thinner than the bearing half, and that the shank is shorter than the diameter of the crank journal. It might take a slight bit of grinding or filing on the nail head to get it right, and a flat leading edge is not a bad idea to make.
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  • Kimbercolt
    does anyone remember what they are called.
    0
  • givette
    Bearing roll-out pins.
    0
  • tomahawk
    roller pins, no joke[;)]
    0
  • merlinn
    I remember it as "Sneaky Pete". It included a wire mesh like a chinese finger pull to pull the new seal around the crank.
    0
  • LesWVa
    My dad was a diesel mechanic on large mining equipment. I remember him doing what you are talking about on a dozer once.

    Called him up and he said that he used steel rivets and cant remember anyone making a special tool for the job.

    I would say that dlrjj suggestion of using a nail would also work fine.
    0
  • fishkiller41
    quote:Originally posted by merlinn
    I remember it as "Sneaky Pete". It included a wire mesh like a chinese finger pull to pull the new seal around the crank.


    I was thinkin along the same lines. I kept thinkin "Willie-Pete" though. And i knew that was wrong..

    Jeff
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  • spasmcreek
    easy job...slightly loosen all the mains then remove bottom cap of one you want to change...zipdedodah.... older models had two piece rear seal inserts that could do in similar fashion but i think many now are one piece
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  • merlinn
    I remember more now. The "Sneaky Pete" had the pins to roll out the bearing, a wire corkscrew to screw into the seal in order to pull it out, and the mesh puller to install the new seal. You're talking 40 years ago.
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  • v35
    Unless you're working on real heavy equipment where it's impractical to pull the crank you're going to get a half assed rebuild job.
    The upper rear crank seal half will not be installed properly with the crank in place, Chinese finger or no.
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  • spasmcreek
    installed many two piece crank seals in place on irrigation engines...done many rod & main in place where compression was OK...worked fine and kept going without the snap on trailer there to assist...even done many two piece seals of the old rope type in place... set up old babbit beaters using cut pieces of check blanks for shims =0.001....ever hear of plastiguage
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  • tobefree
    steam-hammer-fig3.gif
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  • dlrjj
    quote:Originally posted by tobefree
    steam-hammer-fig3.gif
    HMMM, you surely can't be much of a mechanic if you don't recognize a tool for installing valve seats in Briggs and Stratton engines.
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  • merlinn
    We need that press in GITMO. One look at that and those detainees would spill their guts.
    0
  • dlrjj
    quote:Originally posted by merlinn
    We need that press in GITMO. One look at that and those detainees would spill their guts.
    Well, one way or another. Looking or using, either way.[;)]
    0
  • v35
    Nice steam hammer forge. Only leather or rope seals here.
    Note the adjustible packing gland on the shaft.
    0

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