Serious question: Beer H2O
When I lived in San Antonio and made beer fairly often< I would use distilled water, because SA water so so darn mineralized, from HEB or wherever. Beer seemed to come out pretty well. I now live in sticks in MS and am putting up a batch. How much Chlorine in the water is too much for the yeast, or does that matter? I have filtered about half the H20 thru a Britta filter so that should cut CL by about half. I made a batch about 3 months ago and it took ages (about 3 weeks) to quit fermiting. I even put in two batches of yeast, thinking maybe first batch was too week. Beer was horrible! Since I made it, I drank it but my buddys said "Never More". I have got to redeem myself. Do any of you think the water is that important?? Thanks, Tom
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"Don't you know it's the water and alot more"
boiling or letting the water stand will remove most clorine.0 -
Chlorine is volatile. Draw your water into 5-gallon buckets and let them sit for about 48 hours before brewing. The chlorine will volatilize and you'll be left with the water plus whatever minerals are dissolved in it. 0 -
I've made about 10 5-gallon batches of beer in Minneapolis, MN and never thought twice about the water, came out good 9 out of 10 times, and the 10th wasn't because of the water. I tried to use wormwood, and well anyways don't use it. 0 -
I'm just getting started in the Microbrews at home. Everything I've read stated to NEVER use Distilled water, as it reduces some of the minerals that are naturally found in spring water.
They say to use carbon filtered or spring water only.
The Brita is a carbon filter, can't imagine the filter is what caused it. As stated prior, the high Cl2 content may have been the culprit. Try it with store bought spring water, not drinking water.0 -
Chlorine will dissapate (at least to make water aquarium safe) if left in an open container for a few days. Chloramine tho won't, both have same effect, etc. If you are on city water, you should be able to get a report of what is added to your water to make it "safe". 0 -
I have never had any problems making beer with filtered tap water. But I have also used store bought distilled water also with good results. A lot depends on how much chlorine or other water dept additives that are in it. VA residents have a particularly nasty additive that will not dissipate and requires a special dissipation chemical. I live in MD though.
I agree with just letting it sit out for 48 hours. I would be a little concerned with this method for contaminates finding their way into the water though.
In answer to your question though, water quality is very important! If there is any doubt, just buy spring water from the store. For $1.00 a gallon, it only adds $5.00 to the beer costs.0 -
Use distilled water next time. 0 -
I have used tap water, filtered tap water, and store bought spring water. I've not noticed a significant difference in taste; after all, you are cooking most of that water (at least for making all grain beer) and that will drive off some of the chlorine in and of itself. Let me tell you, some of that water was funky- in the bucket it was distinctly blue in tint. Far more likely that you got a strain of wild yeast or mold in the beer, or contaminated something somewhere than the water. That said, now I do use all filtered water only, and unless you get a water analysis I wouldn't use tap water if you are a beer snob. 0 -
forums.homebrewtalk.com 0 -
I went with the Britta filtered tap water last night. It took a little while since I had the picture type filter that you have to fill up each time. It seems to be doing well now. I get a "blurp" in my air lock about every 15 seconds now and it will probably speed up tonight. I will probably be sampling it in a week or so!! 0 -
Here's what it should look like - maybe you will appreciate this!
http://youtube.com/watch?v=KCbel3N1S0A0 -
quote:Originally posted by slipgate
Here's what it should look like - maybe you will appreciate this!
http://youtube.com/watch?v=KCbel3N1S0A
I prefer the S-shaped airlocks to that style. I see no reason to believe that one functions better than the other, but the s-shaped ones make a very satisfying little 'blurp' when they bleed gas. They look cooler, too.0 -
I don't guess any airlock is better or worse than any other as long as it works. I, too, like the S type that "Blurp" at you. Late at night when I wake up, I can hear it talking to me and know that nature is taking its course and beer is on the way!!Tom 0 -
I have made a dozen batches up here in the mountains using my tap water, which is from my 505 foot deep well. Makes excellent beer. This water has a lot of minerals in it; I know, because I put a two gallon pot of water on the wood stove all winter to humidify the house, and you should see how that thing gets crusted up with white minerals after a few weeks of steaming on the stove.
Back in Georgia, we made several dozen batches of beer using city water. We would put the water in the primary fermenter overnight and let most of the chlorine out. Of course, you are boiling a gallon of the water, that gets rid of the chlorine quickly.0 -
"From the land of sky blue water, comes the beer refreshing, Bear Whiz Beer. It's in the water..."
Yep the water is the secret. It can in fact take up to a week for the clorine to dissapate from standing water. Adding a air stone and an air pump helps.0
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