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Woodstove grate question

Lightning
I am in the process of building a wood stove.
Seems the only ones on the market are overpriced and poor quality.

For the grate I know for coal you have to use some type cast iron or the heat from the coal will burn it up. But this stove will be for wood only.
Can I use just plain steel for the grate and how thick does it need to be to keep from sagging in the middle. It will be approx. 16"x 24".
Any ideas or suggestions appreciated.
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Comments

11 comments

Date Votes
  • allen griggs
    From a great deal of experience, I know that you do not need a grate to burn a wood stove.
    I made three stoves from 30 and 55 gallon drums, using a kit from the Sotz Company for the door, legs, and pipe exit assemblies.
    As you know, the steel on these drums is very thin.
    The trick is, you put a couple inches of sand on the bottom of the drum.
    This will keep the stove from burning in two. The fire burns fine without a grate.
    I have used these stoves for 6 years total and had no problem.
    The instructions that came with the kit were that you had to remove the sand in the spring, and coat the inside of the drum with oil. The sand would trap moisture in the summer, and cause rust.

    By the way, I now burn a $1,200 Waterford wood stove. Very high priced, I agree, but it is high quality. Has a glass door so you can watch the fire burn, that is pretty nice.
    I do miss my old Sotz stove, though. What a huge firebox! About 33 inches long, and that door was 12 inches by 12 inches. You could shove a huge chunk of firewood in that stove.
    Nix to the Sotz for the girlfriend, she hated the way it looked.
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  • Lightning
    I know a grate is not a have to but that is the way I want to make it.
    With a grate and a ash pan. So I dont have to shovel ashes and I do believe one with a grate burns better due to air coming in under the fire.
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  • allen griggs
    My Waterford does not use a grate for air to get under the fire, and neither does the best stove made today, the Jotul.
    At any rate, good luck with your project.
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  • select-fire
    You will find out the ash will fill up below the grate and the grate will be a pain loading and unloading ash out of the stove. If your building one I suggest an end loader with a big door.
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  • fideau
    My Vermont Castings does not have a separate grate, has holes in the floor. Ashes go thru the holes into the removable ash pan. Works very good and easy to clean out. Its a lot better than some I have seen that have a removable grate. It does work better with air under the fire.
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  • Permanently deleted user
    I just made a grate for my wood burner. Mine was about half the size so I would naturally use smaller material.

    My suggestion would be at least 3/4 inch thick, perferably 1 inch. It may sound like alot, but if you don't want your grate to bend/be replaced every year, make it thicker.

    If the steel your going to buy, is a harder material, go with 3/4. The steel they use for cutting edges on buckets/plows is perfect.
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  • Permanently deleted user
    There is absolutely no need for a grate in a wood stove.
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  • Old hickory
    I've burned wood since1976 and never had a grate. I use a $2300 Jotul (Scandinavian) and as was said, if you had a grate you'd get a big ash build-up. BUT if you want a grate, then go for it, you can always take it out.
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  • spryor
    I'd definately go with a grate, and as freemind said...

    "If the steel your going to buy, is a harder material, go with 3/4. The steel they use for cutting edges on buckets/plows is perfect."

    Makes excellent grates.
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  • Lightning
    I have used stoves with and without grates throughout the years and much prefer one with a grate.
    The only stoves I have ever seen with an ash buildup problem had wide bars on the grate. I was planning to do a 1/2" slot, 1/2"bar all across the grate.
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  • dongizmo
    You guys ever use these?
    http://www.wttool.com/category-exec/category_id/20660
    We sell so many they are tough to kep in stock.....
    Don
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