Toilet won't stop running//// Update
In one of our rental houses the toilet keeps running. The tenants have shut the water off to that toilet and are just using the hall toilet.
This is a 1967 toilet, original to the house.
It has one of those brass rods that goes to the float. In the 3 years we have had the house I have messed with that damn rod a half dozen times, bending it etc. Still, after a while, the damn thing starts running again. In other words the tank is full and the overflow goes down that pipe inside the tank. It does not leak out onto the floor.
I need to change out the float mechanism inside the tank. Is this hard to do? Is there a particular kit that someone recommends.
I am good at carpentry, painting, and electric, and have even built a stone fireplace that heats great and doesn't smoke.
I hate plumbing.
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I talked to the tenant, she told me that the toilet just kept running, it was not automatically flushing.
She had been maneuvering the little brass rod and float but to no avail, I had messed with that thing a few times myself.
So I went to Home Depot and got the Fluidmaster kit.
I drained the tank and installed the thing. It works fine. It did take me an hour but I was careful, did not want to make a mistake.
I just did the flow level kit, not all the bushings on the tank. If it ain't broke don't fix it, and that goes double with plumbing.
I did have one problem. There is a brass nut that screws in from the bottom of the tank and holds the fluidmaster tube in place. On the instructions it said to only hand tighten. I didn't believe that, but I did hand tighten it. Filled up the tank and sure enough it leaked. I gave it 3/4 turn with the crescent wrench and it quit leaking.
Also, on this mechanism was a toilet leaking prevention mechanism. You clipped this little plastic thing on to the bottom of the float, and attached it by chain to the lever. It is supposed to keep the toilet from leaking in case the flapper wouldn't go all the way down, it prevents the tank from refilling.
Well that looked like some complicated unnecessary bs to me but I hooked it up anyway. I tested it and it didn't work so I let it be. In other words it is in place but is "disarmed," it does not work.
Have any of y'all had experience with this little safety feature?
Thanks to everyone for the advice and encouragement I don't like plumbing.
This is a 1967 toilet, original to the house.
It has one of those brass rods that goes to the float. In the 3 years we have had the house I have messed with that damn rod a half dozen times, bending it etc. Still, after a while, the damn thing starts running again. In other words the tank is full and the overflow goes down that pipe inside the tank. It does not leak out onto the floor.
I need to change out the float mechanism inside the tank. Is this hard to do? Is there a particular kit that someone recommends.
I am good at carpentry, painting, and electric, and have even built a stone fireplace that heats great and doesn't smoke.
I hate plumbing.
============================================================================
I talked to the tenant, she told me that the toilet just kept running, it was not automatically flushing.
She had been maneuvering the little brass rod and float but to no avail, I had messed with that thing a few times myself.
So I went to Home Depot and got the Fluidmaster kit.
I drained the tank and installed the thing. It works fine. It did take me an hour but I was careful, did not want to make a mistake.
I just did the flow level kit, not all the bushings on the tank. If it ain't broke don't fix it, and that goes double with plumbing.
I did have one problem. There is a brass nut that screws in from the bottom of the tank and holds the fluidmaster tube in place. On the instructions it said to only hand tighten. I didn't believe that, but I did hand tighten it. Filled up the tank and sure enough it leaked. I gave it 3/4 turn with the crescent wrench and it quit leaking.
Also, on this mechanism was a toilet leaking prevention mechanism. You clipped this little plastic thing on to the bottom of the float, and attached it by chain to the lever. It is supposed to keep the toilet from leaking in case the flapper wouldn't go all the way down, it prevents the tank from refilling.
Well that looked like some complicated unnecessary bs to me but I hooked it up anyway. I tested it and it didn't work so I let it be. In other words it is in place but is "disarmed," it does not work.
Have any of y'all had experience with this little safety feature?
Thanks to everyone for the advice and encouragement I don't like plumbing.
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Simple as can be. Just get a rebuild kit from Home Depot. Takes about 20 minutes. 0 -
Here is a bit of reading for you before you begine:
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/plumbing/toilet/adjust-tank-float.php
Just run down to walmart and pick up a new toilet rebuild kit, it'll only run you $15 and it'll fix the problem your having. Don't worry it is really easy to install, the worst part is going to be getting the old one out.0 -
I just bought one at Hell-Mart for I think seven or eight bucks. Don't get the kind with the old-fashioned ball float, but rather the kind that has the float run up the drain tube. If I can swap one of these, anyone can. 0 -
One of ours did that a few weeks ago. Bought the float kit at the local hardware store, give it to my soon-to-be 14 year old son and said, "Have at it." I did make sure the water was off though! He had it in and going in about 45 minutes. Works fine! If you know what you are doing, it should take about 15 minutes. 0 -
Main thing to remember is do not overtighten or you will crack the tank. If you crack the tank you will find yourself disconnecting it to install a new one. Once you begin the process of either lifting the old one or setting the new tank in place it will slip and you will crack the bowl. Once this is done you will be purchasing a new bowl, tank and wax ring.
Ever read the book "If you Give a Mouse a Cookie". Toilet repair can be that way, so beware the torque.
(I have replaced toilets in just about every house we have bought due to torque problems.[:I] Hubbie just never realizes his own strength.)0 -
quote:Originally posted by allen griggs
Still, after a while, the damn thing starts running again. In other words the tank is full and the overflow goes down that pipe inside the tank.
When you shut off the water, does the tank stay filled?
If the tank stays filled when the water is turned off, the problem is not with the flush valve; it is a case where the filler valve is not shutting off completely. The tank is over-filling and running down the overflow tube.
Some filler valves are serviceable, but finding the repair kits has become almost impossible at the big stores. A smaller hardware store may have a repair kit.
If you can't find a rebuilt kit, or suspect that won't work well, just replace the filler valve. I find FluidMaster is the best brand in replacement filler valves. Use a new supply line; the flexible braided lines work best. (Buy the 20-inch long line and just put a loop in it to line up the connections between the shut-off valve and new valve you install.)0 -
I believe that the tank does stay full with the water shut off. I have to call the tenant and find out.
If so, then I don't need to replace all the guts in the tank, I can just replace the filler valve?
When you buy these kits for $15 do they include a new filler valve?0 -
quote:Originally posted by allen griggs
I believe that the tank does stay full with the water shut off. I have to call the tenant and find out.
If so, then I don't need to replace all the guts in the tank, I can just replace the filler valve?
When you buy these kits for $15 do they include a new filler valve?
They replace everything. The filler valve, the float, the overflow tube and in some kits the stopper valve (the rubber stopper at the bottom).
It is very easy to do as well.0 -
Allan:
In an old rig like u have, U can prob just get a new brass rod and float, and it'll take U 2 Min. to fix it.Brass in brass USUALLY comes apart pretty easily.0 -
Sounds like a leaky fill valve, if it is a brass Mansfield, I would rebuild it, the last kits I looked at had pretty clear instructions.:
http://mansfieldplumbing.com/fittings.asp
Don0 -
10 min repair. Shut off the toilet water. Flush to get the majority of water out of the tank. Disconnect water line, put a towel down to catch excess water, and take your pliers and remove the nut on the bottom of the tank. Put in the ball less float type valve. They cost about 8 bucks. Set the water depth and go home. All my rentals have them after I installed em' 0 -
you know i had a toilet one time that kept running i got so tired of chasing it i just let it get away.........it never did come back [:(][:(][:(] 0 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
10 min repair.
and costs about $60.00 to get it done!0 -
does your bathtub smell? maybe your bathroom is backwards 0 -
quote:Originally posted by needmyguns
you know i had a toilet one time that kept running i got so tired of chasing it i just let it get away.........it never did come back [:(][:(][:(]
I did the same thing
Turned out to be a s**ty deal0 -
[BROTHER,,,join our CROWD.....Home-Depot (or any hardware store) will sell you an entirely new unit for about $9.50.........it is EASY for me = = it's easier 4 YOU !! fear not , our hero !! IF only the " buSH-IT" could flush his crap as well !!! Stevequote]Originally posted by allen griggs
In one of our rental houses the toilet keeps running. The tenants have shut the water off to that toilet and are just using the hall toilet.
This is a 1967 toilet, original to the house.
It has one of those brass rods that goes to the float. In the 3 years we have had the house I have messed with that damn rod a half dozen times, bending it etc. Still, after a while, the damn thing starts running again. In other words the tank is full and the overflow goes down that pipe inside the tank. It does not leak out onto the floor.
I need to change out the float mechanism inside the tank. Is this hard to do? Is there a particular kit that someone recommends.
I am good at carpentry, painting, and electric, and have even built a stone fireplace that heats great and doesn't smoke.
I hate plumbing.
[/quote]0 -
The hardest part is to get the water turned off. Sounds like they have already done that, so grab a couple 'crescent' wrenches, a pair of channel-locks and swap the whole thing out. Really---the simplest home repair you can make.
Clouder..0 -
quote:Toilet won't stop running
It'll get tired soon and stop [}:)]0 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
10 min repair. Shut off the toilet water. Flush to get the majority of water out of the tank. Disconnect water line, put a towel down to catch excess water, and take your pliers and remove the nut on the bottom of the tank. Put in the ball less float type valve. They cost about 8 bucks. Set the water depth and go home. All my rentals have them after I installed em'
Bingo!0
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