neon still shuts off
its a 99 neon . i have checked all that y'all suggested, but it still shuts down without warning. it will restart after a few turnovers, it turns over good, new battery installed. could it be the ignition control module? it has been doing it for a year now. the same way, no difference in the way it shuts off or restarts. some say if it was gas related it would have completely quit by now ,i need help bad. i cant afford a mechanic.its hard for me to even buy used parts. i cant afford another car either. it runs great when it is running. again ty for any input.
bill
bill
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Got a tach? If it drops to zero immeadatly when the engine stops, but before it stops turning, than I'd suspect a ignition problem. If it still shows RPM even though the engine is still turning I'd suspect a fuel problem. 0 -
sorry i dont have a tach, i wouldnt know how to use one if i did. ty
bill0 -
it does seem like it doesnt have as much power after it recranks until its run a few seconds, ty
bill0 -
try unplugging the mass air flow sensor
i had the same problem with a olds once, damn thing was a mystery since it would only do it at random times, and would give no obd code, i replaced the catalytic converter, brain, coil packs, ignition module, after 2 dealers and 2 shops gave their expert opinions, it happened once while i was in town, then ran like crap, i pulled the plug on the mass sensor, it coughed then the brain compensated, it was a 120 dollar part, after 850 dollars spent0 -
Found this on the web...ppl are having or were having the same prob with a durango...
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Dodge/Durango/1999/electrical/vehicle_shuts_down_without_warning.shtml0 -
had a plymouth horizon that would do the same thing. replaced the coil and all was well. good luck 0 -
we bought a new 1995 neon and had all kinds of trouble with it, to cure the problems we sold it! eastbank. 0 -
Had a ford car that shut down like that after lots of trips to shop.
had a bad ground battery to frame / motor0 -
The fuel pumps on the Neons sit under the tank and will essentially vapor lock from the heat being radiated off the road surface. Since you are posting this in January, I doubt that heat is your problem but is still likely to be a fuel pump.
The wife had a 95 Neon that started to do this one summer, along with all the other problems that kept coming along. I changed the fuel pump and that got her through until the following summer when it started all over again. At almost $200 a pop, I wasn't playing this game every summer. She traded it in on a Hyundai. Almost as big of a mistake! I now purchase her vehicles, she tells me what style and color and I choose make and model. Atleast it gives her someone to blame it on if she doesn't like it.[:D]0 -
i bought my wife a new 2000 hyundai elantra station wagon in 2000 and we have put 113,000 miles on it with out a single problem at all, just normal maintence(oil changes,two spark plug changes and tires)and it get 30-32 mpg. eastbank. 0 -
i cant afford a new one. lol that would be a good answer though. ty 0 -
although there is an amazing wealth of knowledge in this virtual room, maybe this question would be better answered in a car forum? possibly one dedicated to dodge?
your going to get advice such as "i think its this, replace this part", which you'll do. it might work, and it also might not. so somebody else might say "well if it wasnt that, then its this. replace this". so you do that and that isnt it either. and you go on and on slowly bankrupting yourself replacing parts that dont need to be replaced and in the end, spending far more money that if you took the best advice for your situation:
go to a reputable(thats a key word. not the cheapest hack you can find but a high quality mechanic) repair shop and have them diag the car, determine the problem and repair it. pay the bill and stock up on mac and chees and ramen noodles until your finances are back in order.
or do something else and spend more money than you have to.0 -
Sounds like a bad electric fuel pump. Chryslers are notorius for it. I've had two of them do it. The fuels pumps are in the tank, and you have to keep the tank above 1/4 full to keep them cool. If you drive with the level below 1/4 of a tank very often, they burn up enough to keep working, but still shut off when least expected. After they cool for a few minutes, they start right back up. 0 -
the crankshaft position sensor. 0 -
fuel pumps typically work or they don't, they give very little warning if any, let alone a year 0 -
quote:Originally posted by 1911a1fan
fuel pumps typically work or they don't, they give very little warning if any, let alone a year
The Chryslers are different. I've had it happen to two of mine. The first one went on for a year before it finally went completely out. The second one I replaced after the second time it died even thought they told me that wasn't it. It fixed the problem.
I would have never believed it, but if it happens more when the tank is low on fuel and less when it's full. I would bet money it's the fuel pump.0 -
Mass air flow sensor -116.99
Ignition coil- 91.99
Ground cable- 10.99
Fuel pump- 229.99
Crankshaft sensor- 74.99
just because im bored, i checked auto zone and pulled the prices for all the parts you've been told it oculd be and listed them above. your up to 524.95 assuming that last part on the list fixes the problem. and theres one more issue.
"sorry i dont have a tach, i wouldnt know how to use one if i did. ty"
tach is short for tachymeter. its a guage on your dashboard. you "use it" by looking at it. not knowing that doesnt make you an idiot. it doesnt make you a bad guy. but it does make you somebody who doesnt know their way around a motor i doubt you could replace your own crankshaft sensor.
not trying to be a jerk. in fact, just the opposite. trying to save you some cash and solve your problem with the least amount of aggrevation. take it to a shop. have them put it on a computer and sort it out for you. it will end up saving you some cash.
one more reccomendation: i like spiral mac and cheese and beef ramen.0 -
Might be time to put it down. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by dheffley
quote:Originally posted by 1911a1fan
fuel pumps typically work or they don't, they give very little warning if any, let alone a year
The Chryslers are different. I've had it happen to two of mine. The first one went on for a year before it finally went completely out. The second one I replaced after the second time it died even thought they told me that wasn't it. It fixed the problem.
I would have never believed it, but if it happens more when the tank is low on fuel and less when it's full. I would bet money it's the fuel pump.
danny it sounds like a filter may have been your problem, i have personally replaced a few dozen, they can make noise for awhile, but typically the ether work or they don't, just my 020 -
quote:Originally posted by 1911a1fan
quote:Originally posted by dheffley
quote:Originally posted by 1911a1fan
fuel pumps typically work or they don't, they give very little warning if any, let alone a year
The Chryslers are different. I've had it happen to two of mine. The first one went on for a year before it finally went completely out. The second one I replaced after the second time it died even thought they told me that wasn't it. It fixed the problem.
I would have never believed it, but if it happens more when the tank is low on fuel and less when it's full. I would bet money it's the fuel pump.
danny it sounds like a filter may have been your problem, i have personally replaced a few dozen, they can make noise for awhile, but typically the ether work or they don't, just my 02
Replaced a million of them, both me and the dealer trying to fix it. After the old pump was removed, we tested it under a load. After it got a little warm, the resistance went out the roof and it stopped working. Let it cool for a few, and it went right back to working.
Chrysler used the fuel in the tank to cool the pump. as long as you kept the fuel level high, the pump stayed cool enough to work flawlessly. As soon as you let the fuel get below 1/4 of a tank, all the problems started.
I know it sounds like a lot of bull, but it is true. I've also seen it in Dodge trucks. As soon as the pump (still working by all observations) was replaced, the problem went away. It's just a Chrysler thing on the late 80's and through most of the 90's.0 -
quote:Replaced a million of them, both me and the dealer trying to fix it. After the old pump was removed, we tested it under a load. After it got a little warm, the resistance went out the roof and it stopped working. Let it cool for a few, and it went right back to working.
Chrysler used the fuel in the tank to cool the pump. as long as you kept the fuel level high, the pump stayed cool enough to work flawlessly. As soon as you let the fuel get below 1/4 of a tank, all the problems started.
a million of them? no wonder your ribs hurt[:D]
cooling them in the gas tank is the standard now, it is the only way to keep the high speed pumps cool, and the high speed pump is the only way to build the high pressure needed for todays fuel injection which is around 45psi, and testing it outside of a cooling environment will achieve the high ohms you spoke of even with a brand spanking new one, i bet he charged accordingly, and replaced the filter too
anyway i'll agree to disagree0 -
quote:Originally posted by 1911a1fan
anyway i'll agree to disagree
I'll respect that, but it fixed the problem, so I think he was right.0 -
if you have done all of the normal maintanance things then they is no easy or cheap way to figure out your problem, fuel pump sounds as good a chance as any I'm guessing you've tugged and wiggled the wireing, look for any signs of mice chewing on the wiring. if it shuts off all of the time you can determine if its electrical or mechanical by putting a tester on a plug, any plug and when it dies the light will go out quickley like throwing a switch, if its not elecrtical the light will continue to flicker as the engine speed reduces. Other then that I'm at a loss. Good luck 0 -
quote:Originally posted by KEVD18
Mass air flow sensor -116.99
Ignition coil- 91.99
Ground cable- 10.99
Fuel pump- 229.99
Crankshaft sensor- 74.99
just because im bored, i checked auto zone and pulled the prices for all the parts you've been told it oculd be and listed them above. your up to 524.95 assuming that last part on the list fixes the problem. and theres one more issue.
"sorry i dont have a tach, i wouldnt know how to use one if i did. ty"
tach is short for tachymeter. its a guage on your dashboard. you "use it" by looking at it. not knowing that doesnt make you an idiot. it doesnt make you a bad guy. but it does make you somebody who doesnt know their way around a motor i doubt you could replace your own crankshaft sensor.
not trying to be a jerk. in fact, just the opposite. trying to save you some cash and solve your problem with the least amount of aggrevation. take it to a shop. have them put it on a computer and sort it out for you. it will end up saving you some cash.
one more reccomendation: i like spiral mac and cheese and beef ramen.
Spark Plug Wires. But, I whole heartedly agree with KEV.0 -
u folks are so kind and i thabk u much for your time in trying to help me. i will do what i can which wont be much. i am 74 years of age and very limited income. parts are hard to buy . u all take care and thanks.and i wont bug u all again, ty kindly
bill0 -
its not that your bugging us. just the opposite. most of us love puzzle. i just hate to see someone throw money away...especially when im too far away to catch it... 0 -
thanks kev. i cant throw away what i dont have. lol i would have to try used parts if i can find them again thanks.
bill0
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