Any auto thermostat experts? Is Dex Cool to blame?
I have a 2002 Chevy Blazer 4WD w/4.3L engine. I bought it with 65k miles on it February 2007. I had the radiator flushed along with a few other preventative maintenance items done to other things after I bought it because I don't know how well it was maintained before I bought it. I don't know what kind of coolant it had in it but I'm assuming Dex-Cool (the orange stuff) since it has an aluminum radiator and GM switched over the Dex-Cool on a lot of their vehicles (including Blazer/Jimmy types) back in 1996.
Well, my engine was running too cool 2 months ago and the "Check Engine" light came on. The thermostat needed to be replaced and it was. I noticed tonight that the engine was running much cooler according to the temp gauge which read at about the same level the last time I had a thermostat problem. I'm guessing it's the thermostat again. I've read mixed opinions about Dex Cool.
I'm wondering if I need to just go ahead and flush completely and switch to the old-fashioned green stuff or if that would be bad considering that it's an aluminum radiator for which the Dex-Cool was originally designed due to its corrosion inhibitive properties.
Side Note: It was 17 degrees outside but running 75mph down the interstate didn't raise the engine temp any. It was 9 degrees on Monday and I wasn't having this problem at 4:30am on the way to work.
Well, my engine was running too cool 2 months ago and the "Check Engine" light came on. The thermostat needed to be replaced and it was. I noticed tonight that the engine was running much cooler according to the temp gauge which read at about the same level the last time I had a thermostat problem. I'm guessing it's the thermostat again. I've read mixed opinions about Dex Cool.
I'm wondering if I need to just go ahead and flush completely and switch to the old-fashioned green stuff or if that would be bad considering that it's an aluminum radiator for which the Dex-Cool was originally designed due to its corrosion inhibitive properties.
Side Note: It was 17 degrees outside but running 75mph down the interstate didn't raise the engine temp any. It was 9 degrees on Monday and I wasn't having this problem at 4:30am on the way to work.
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I have a 98 chev pickup and the manifold started leaking, had to have it removed and shaved down, 700.00. Mechanic says he sees alot of this with the dexcool. I'm back to the good ole green antifreeze. 0 -
Before you do anything, get the temp sending unit checked to see if it is bad, I had one go out and it always showed the motor was cold. Had another one go out and it always showed th motor was hot. In both case the temp was fine. 0 -
Dex-cool is not to blame.....sensor, thermastat.
I seen ALOT of problems whn people mix dex-cool with regular antifreeze.0 -
I didn't mix and know that's a no-no. Ya can't mix em or things will REALLY gum up. You have to do a COMPLETE THOROUGH flush when switching from one to the other. I've heard horror stories about that.
I'm just wondering if it will be bad for my system (aluminum radiator) if I switch back to the green stuff.0 -
quote:Originally posted by idsman75
I didn't mix and know that's a no-no. Ya can't mix em or things will REALLY gum up. You have to do a COMPLETE THOROUGH flush when switching from one to the other. I've heard horror stories about that.
I'm just wondering if it will be bad for my system (aluminum radiator) if I switch back to the green stuff.
Green stuff won't hurt aluminum unless it's aluminum with expoxied on black plastic tanks. The black plastic tanks and the epoxy degrade with the green stuff.0 -
dexcool should have a heat capacity similar to regular green stuff,
probably a sensor issue0 -
You have a bad thermostatic fan clutch.
I did not read any of the replies, if somebody already mentioned this, I apologize.0 -
could be another bad thermostat, even the brand names are junk now days [:(] 0 -
I am in the dexcool class action lawsuit. I will probably only get $5 for all the repairs it caused me.
Google it if interested.0 -
I've Googled it and there are just as many people on each side of the Dex-Cool debate. 0 -
i started out with the orange stuff, then i read where prestone was compatiable with all and that's what i have been using for several years. never did flush the radiator. (96 corsica with over 200K miles) 0 -
quote:Originally posted by fatwiteguy
I have a 98 chev pickup and the manifold started leaking, had to have it removed and shaved down, 700.00. Mechanic says he sees alot of this with the dexcool. I'm back to the good ole green antifreeze.
Had the same problem with my '98 GMC. Intake gaskets blew out. Luckily I was only about 1/4 from my shop. I killed the engine and coasted in. Dealer says the gaskets were a known default, but GM decided not to put a recall on this problem. Gaskets cost me about $40 and 3 hours of my busy day. I'll never buy another GMC.0 -
the "check engine light" has nothing to do with your engine coolant, it is for emissions you could drain it dry of coolant and oil that light should not be triggered until an emission trigger or knock sensor was hit {as you blew the engine but you get the point}
and with temperature outside my 96 g30 never reaches full temp right now is not the time to trouble shoot it0 -
Dunno if this is still possible in the newer ones, but all three of my older GMs at one time or another, blew the voltage regulator for the instrument package - Oil pressure looks high, fuel stays too high, and the temp always looked low while running in this condition.
This was in 1992-3-4 pickups/blazers.0 -
I have a 94 S-10 4WD w/4.3L engine.
I run the green antifreeze. I would have to change the thermostat (a 195* model) at least once a year because the engine would run too cold. When I installed the new thermostat the temps would run normal under any conditions and then just would run cold again, and then it was time to change the thermostat.
I figured it was worth replacing the thermostat often because they are cheap.
Dcloco said " You have a bad thermostatic fan clutch." Well not too long ago I found mine was bad, had been bad for along time I think. So I changed it out. Everything ran fine and no need for new thermostats.
BUT, beware a very short time after putting on a new fan clutch the waterpump went. I think it was the extra strain of actually having the fan run.
I would recommend changing the waterpump, fanclutch, thermostat, and belt at the same time and think that you would have the problem fixed without having to change coolants.
Here is where I get my parts for the best price and have been extremely happy with them. http://rockauto.com/0 -
quote:the "check engine light" has nothing to do with your engine coolant
The check engine light can be related to a thermostat staying open. If the engine doesn't get to a predetermined temperature in a predetermined time, the computer knows the thermostat is not working. It isn't caused by Dexcool. Neither was that intake and head that had to be resurfaced. The newer Dexcool is fine, but shouldn't be mixed with anything else. I have it in my truck, and when there is a problem it will get the same. The fan clutch cannot cause the engine to run cold. The only way the fan cools the coolant is if the coolant is in the radiator. The thermostat is what controls this. Fan clutches do go bad, but how much do you think the fan actually does after thirty miles per hour?? Nothing.0 -
quote:the "check engine light" has nothing to do with your engine coolant
It will come on when coolant gets into a cylinder and causes a miss.
Everytime I had a dexcool related leak my low coolant light came on.0 -
Dex cool is to blame for clogged heater cores in GM's other than that............we use it all the time in all makes and models of cars 0 -
quote:Originally posted by haroldchrismeyer
quote:the "check engine light" has nothing to do with your engine coolant
The check engine light can be related to a thermostat staying open. If the engine doesn't get to a predetermined temperature in a predetermined time, the computer knows the thermostat is not working. It isn't caused by Dexcool. Neither was that intake and head that had to be resurfaced. The newer Dexcool is fine, but shouldn't be mixed with anything else. I have it in my truck, and when there is a problem it will get the same. The fan clutch cannot cause the engine to run cold. The only way the fan cools the coolant is if the coolant is in the radiator. The thermostat is what controls this. Fan clutches do go bad, but how much do you think the fan actually does after thirty miles per hour?? Nothing.
check engine or service engine soon has zip nada none to do with anything else but emissions, it doesn't care if you remove the thermostat, or block it off, unless it effects a knock sensOr,egr valve, o2senser, etc
quote:Originally posted by Warpig883
quote:the "check engine light" has nothing to do with your engine coolant
It will come on when coolant gets into a cylinder and causes a miss.
Everytime I had a dexcool related leak my low coolant light came on.
again coolant getting into a cylinder would effect the emissions from the fuel cap to the engine, and out the tail pipe is all it cares about nothing else unless it directly effect the emissions
LOOK IT UP0 -
Just went through this with my son's 99 VW bettle.The garage put in
the wrong anti-freeze and left towels in cooling system when they
replaced the water pump.Luckily ,I have all the paperwork and parts
so they are going to pay me back for repair$1491!0 -
quote:Originally posted by 1911a1fan
the "check engine light" has nothing to do with your engine coolant, it is for emissions you could drain it dry of coolant and oil that light should not be triggered until an emission trigger or knock sensor was hit {as you blew the engine but you get the point}
and with temperature outside my 96 g30 never reaches full temp right now is not the time to trouble shoot it
Actually, the code referred to a cooling system problem. An engine that runs too cold does not burn fuel as efficiently. Anything involving environmental impact can cause a Check Engine light to come on. My brother just had his come on because of a mucked up EGR.0 -
quote:Originally posted by RUGERGUNZ
I have a 94 S-10 4WD w/4.3L engine.
I run the green antifreeze. I would have to change the thermostat (a 195* model) at least once a year because the engine would run too cold. When I installed the new thermostat the temps would run normal under any conditions and then just would run cold again, and then it was time to change the thermostat.
I figured it was worth replacing the thermostat often because they are cheap.
Dcloco said " You have a bad thermostatic fan clutch." Well not too long ago I found mine was bad, had been bad for along time I think. So I changed it out. Everything ran fine and no need for new thermostats.
BUT, beware a very short time after putting on a new fan clutch the waterpump went. I think it was the extra strain of actually having the fan run.
I would recommend changing the waterpump, fanclutch, thermostat, and belt at the same time and think that you would have the problem fixed without having to change coolants.
Here is where I get my parts for the best price and have been extremely happy with them. http://rockauto.com/
You run the green but they didn't switch to the aluminum radiators until '96 which is what Dex-Cool was designed for.0 -
quote:Originally posted by 1911a1fan
quote:Originally posted by haroldchrismeyer
quote:the "check engine light" has nothing to do with your engine coolant
The check engine light can be related to a thermostat staying open. If the engine doesn't get to a predetermined temperature in a predetermined time, the computer knows the thermostat is not working. It isn't caused by Dexcool. Neither was that intake and head that had to be resurfaced. The newer Dexcool is fine, but shouldn't be mixed with anything else. I have it in my truck, and when there is a problem it will get the same. The fan clutch cannot cause the engine to run cold. The only way the fan cools the coolant is if the coolant is in the radiator. The thermostat is what controls this. Fan clutches do go bad, but how much do you think the fan actually does after thirty miles per hour?? Nothing.
check engine or service engine soon has zip nada none to do with anything else but emissions, it doesn't care if you remove the thermostat, or block it off, unless it effects a knock sensOr,egr valve, o2senser, etc
quote:Originally posted by Warpig883
quote:the "check engine light" has nothing to do with your engine coolant
It will come on when coolant gets into a cylinder and causes a miss.
Everytime I had a dexcool related leak my low coolant light came on.
again coolant getting into a cylinder would effect the emissions from the fuel cap to the engine, and out the tail pipe is all it cares about nothing else unless it directly effect the emissions
LOOK IT UP
I did look it up:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-56.htm0 -
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-56.htm
thats a obd code, totally different that just the light coming on while running
quote:Actually, the code referred to a cooling system problem. An engine that runs too cold does not burn fuel as efficiently. Anything involving environmental impact can cause a Check Engine light to come on. My brother just had his come on because of a mucked up EGR.
egr valve is a part of emissions
edit:read what you have to do to pull that code out, it is totally different that the light coming on while driving, that is a FORCED code, the check engine light will not come on for any other reason while running except for emissions0
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