Chamber dimensions 1851 Navy Colt
I recently got back into cap and ball revolver shooting after about a twenty year hiatus. I bought three used revolvers over about a four week period. All are .44 cal. One is an 1858 Remington, there is also an 1851 Navy Colt and an 1860 Army Colt. The Navy and the Remington are in great shape. The Army is a little rough but that's okay because it is pretty and I got it cheap.
Anyway, I noticed a situation on the Navy Colt that I had not encountered before. The situation is tapered chambers in the cylinder.
Just the facts: A .451 round ball sits on the chamber awaiting the force of the loading lever, just like it did in about nine other Navy colts I have owned (20 years ago). However, upon applying the force the ball gets about _ of the way into the chamber and then stops dead. No amount of profanity will encourage the ball all the way home. So now we have a partially loaded revolver, unsafe to shoot, ball partially protruding from the chamber too far to pass the barrel. Only option is to remove the barrel, reposition the cylinder with the offending chamber lined up for the shot, reassemble the barrel and clear the round through the muzzle. NOT RECOMMENDED! Or take the nipple off, dump out the powder and drive the ball out from the open nipple port. NOT FUN!
I measured the diameter of the chamber and at the rim it is .440. But further down inside the chamber the diameter declines to about .430. We all know that the excellent seal of the ball in the chamber is provided by shaving a ring of lead from around round ball as the ball goes past the rim of the chamber. Essentially the ball becomes the right size for the chamber during this process. Perhaps I am wrong, but the amount of force required to squeeze a lead ball into a tapered cylinder would exceed that which could be repeatedly withstood by the arbor on any Colt revolver.
All of the chambers in this revolver are identical. None will accept a .451 round ball.
Questions for those of you who have kept up with the world:
What can you tell me about the cylinder on my Navy Colt?
Is this some accommodation for shooters who intend to use the non-round projectiles that have become popular during my period of inattention?
If this is the case, what mold should I buy to make the bullets?
Tnx,
Anyway, I noticed a situation on the Navy Colt that I had not encountered before. The situation is tapered chambers in the cylinder.
Just the facts: A .451 round ball sits on the chamber awaiting the force of the loading lever, just like it did in about nine other Navy colts I have owned (20 years ago). However, upon applying the force the ball gets about _ of the way into the chamber and then stops dead. No amount of profanity will encourage the ball all the way home. So now we have a partially loaded revolver, unsafe to shoot, ball partially protruding from the chamber too far to pass the barrel. Only option is to remove the barrel, reposition the cylinder with the offending chamber lined up for the shot, reassemble the barrel and clear the round through the muzzle. NOT RECOMMENDED! Or take the nipple off, dump out the powder and drive the ball out from the open nipple port. NOT FUN!
I measured the diameter of the chamber and at the rim it is .440. But further down inside the chamber the diameter declines to about .430. We all know that the excellent seal of the ball in the chamber is provided by shaving a ring of lead from around round ball as the ball goes past the rim of the chamber. Essentially the ball becomes the right size for the chamber during this process. Perhaps I am wrong, but the amount of force required to squeeze a lead ball into a tapered cylinder would exceed that which could be repeatedly withstood by the arbor on any Colt revolver.
All of the chambers in this revolver are identical. None will accept a .451 round ball.
Questions for those of you who have kept up with the world:
What can you tell me about the cylinder on my Navy Colt?
Is this some accommodation for shooters who intend to use the non-round projectiles that have become popular during my period of inattention?
If this is the case, what mold should I buy to make the bullets?
Tnx,
0
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I never heard of this problem before.
I think you have a faulty cylinder.
http://www.vtigunparts.com/0 -
It is common for the chamber to taper, once the ball is well into the cylinder. I would say that the factory chambering reamer stopped short. Either order a new cylinder or have this one reamed with a .454 chambering reamer for 45 Colts. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by allen griggs
I never heard of this problem before.
I think you have a faulty cylinder.
http://www.vtigunparts.com/
Thanks for the info. This was one eventuality that I had considered but then discounted completely. I have encountered less than perfect QC in the past from such revolvers.
I will check out your site.
Tnx,
Barry0 -
quote:Originally posted by 44caliberkid
It is common for the chamber to taper, once the ball is well into the cylinder. I would say that the factory chambering reamer stopped short. Either order a new cylinder or have this one reamed with a .454 chambering reamer for 45 Colts.
I like the idea of a chambering reamer, but how about the .44 barrel?
I also like the idea of a replacement cylinder, The pistol is made by Euroarms so I think it is worth the expense.
Tnx,
Barry0 -
quote:Originally posted by 44caliberkid
It is common for the chamber to taper, once the ball is well into the cylinder. I would say that the factory chambering reamer stopped short. Either order a new cylinder or have this one reamed with a .454 chambering reamer for 45 Colts.
44.,
I have word from Euroarms of America that they have a replacement cylinder for $68.25 plus handling. I would be happy to spend that to get this pistol shooting.
As you read before, I have been away from shooting for a long time, but if memory serves, Euroarms had (20 years ago) a good reputation.
1.Was that true then?
2. Is it still true now?
Tnx,0
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