a topic never discussed before...
HA! Just kidding, you fell for my clickbait!! 
:P
Anyhoo, is this a good enough deal of which to take advantage?
The Mrs. wants a 1911 in 9mm w/stainless finish. Found this at a local pawn shop, and includes the original box & paperwork, as well as a hard belt holster. Price is negotiable, and will go down by at least 10% when I go to make the purchase.
Thoughts?
:PAnyhoo, is this a good enough deal of which to take advantage?
The Mrs. wants a 1911 in 9mm w/stainless finish. Found this at a local pawn shop, and includes the original box & paperwork, as well as a hard belt holster. Price is negotiable, and will go down by at least 10% when I go to make the purchase.
Thoughts?
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According to Bustedknee's Rules of Gun Dealing...the price of an excellent used gun should be 10-20% less than new price.
New price in this case starts about $611 then goes up.
This Price is good, esp with your extra discount.
My other consideration is, has the gun been bubba-ed? I cannot think of any reason to bubba a Pro-Carry II but I would like to check inside the gun just to be sure. :shock:
If I. are my wife, really wanted a PC-II this one would be in a holster not in a conversation on the internet. :P0 -
The original owner who pawned the gun included the original receipt, and I think it was around $900. So not an good deal for him or her.
I don't think it's been Bubba'd, just not cleaned very well before being pawned. It sounded and felt solid in my hands, and the action worked as it should. It's only about a year or 18 months old, and I didnt see anything questionable.
And to be completely honest, I went ahead and put $50 down on layaway to reserve it. We're going to go look at it on Saturday, and from the pic she says she likes it. So we'll probably get it then. 😁0 -
You did good imo Nice pieces -) 0 -
When it passes Forge's tests, BUY it, to me, $500.00 , that's a smoking hot deal. 0 -
forgemonkey wrote:Besides field strip inspection, prior to purchase, you might want to do the following in addition to the customary safety checks;
1. Forcefully rack the slide, and without touching the trigger,,,,,,hold the pistol close to your ear and lightly touch the hammer spur. If you hear a ?click? that will be the disconnector resetting. Easy fix.
2. With the hammer down squeeze and hold the trigger to the rear and then rack the slide,,,,,the hammer should remained cocked and you should hear a distinct ?click? when you release the trigger.
3. For your first firing only load one round in the chamber and one in the mag. ,,,,, repeat with two in the mag. and then three and then four, etc. This will help ?prove? the weapon ,,,,, a full auto 1911 is a religious experience !!!
Thanks, Forge, I'll try those (the first 2)!0 -
forgemonkey wrote:Besides field strip inspection, prior to purchase, you might want to do the following in addition to the customary safety checks;
1. Forcefully rack the slide, and without touching the trigger,,,,,,hold the pistol close to your ear and lightly touch the hammer spur. If you hear a ?click? that will be the disconnector resetting. Easy fix.
2. With the hammer down squeeze and hold the trigger to the rear and then rack the slide,,,,,the hammer should remained cocked and you should hear a distinct ?click? when you release the trigger.
3. For your first firing only load one round in the chamber and one in the mag. ,,,,, repeat with two in the mag. and then three and then four, etc. This will help ?prove? the weapon ,,,,, a full auto 1911 is a religious experience !!!
30 or so years ago I was shooting at the Williams Gun sight outdoor pistol range. A guy showed up with a milk crate of 1911s that looked like they had seen better days. He was the armorer for the local National Guard post. He said that without much notice that he was informed that the post would have a pistol squad for competitions. He was there to check out the 1911s before issuing them to the squad. I went back to shooting and wasn't paying much attention. I happened to look over as one went full auto. The look on his face was priceless as he held on for dear life. It didn't cycle particularly fast but didn't take long to go through 7 rounds. He packed up and left mumbling to himself about them needing more work. Bob0 -
BobJudy wrote:forgemonkey wrote:
3. For your first firing only load one round in the chamber and one in the mag. ,,,,, repeat with two in the mag. and then three and then four, etc. This will help ?prove? the weapon ,,,,, a full auto 1911 is a religious experience !!!
30 or so years ago I was shooting at the Williams Gun sight outdoor pistol range. A guy showed up with a milk crate of 1911s that looked like they had seen better days. He was the armorer for the local National Guard post. He said that without much notice that he was informed that the post would have a pistol squad for competitions. He was there to check out the 1911s before issuing them to the squad. I went back to shooting and wasn't paying much attention. I happened to look over as one went full auto. The look on his face was priceless as he held on for dear life. It didn't cycle particularly fast but didn't take long to go through 7 rounds. He packed up and left mumbling to himself about them needing more work. Bob :shock: :shock: So how does that happen? Like a slam fire or what?0 -
So, finally got this firearm (final price, about $570 out the door), and it took me a LONG TIME to clean. Something I never knew about Kimbers, and I'm not sure I like it...
You have to have a "special tool" (called an Allen wrench, last time I looked) in order to field strip the gun for cleaning. I don't think I'll ever be in a SHTF situation where I'll need to literally field strip the gun, but still... seems dumb.0 -
Nice gun great deal IMO I'm surprised no one told you not to buy it due to MIM parts LOL 0 -
mogley98 wrote:Nice gun great deal IMO I'm surprised no one told you not to buy it due to MIM parts LOL
MIM parts? Why is that bad?0 -
callktulu wrote:mogley98 wrote:Nice gun great deal IMO I'm surprised no one told you not to buy it due to MIM parts LOL
MIM parts? Why is that bad?
Metal Injection Molding, MIM in itself is fine. The problem, is quality control. QC of the process and QC of the materials used for the process. Kimber, as several others had cut corners to meet demand of their product. In doing so a lot of their MIM parts lacked quality and have failed.
One member here had a pro carry that the slide stop/release broke while shooting at the range. Kimber service made good on the gun but it turned the owner away from Kimber.
My 3" SCU has a popped air bubble flaw on the side of the grip safety. (which I did not catch when I bought the gun) I did not complain to the manfc. because they are not getting the gun back to fix it. I live with the flaw and still carry the gun as my EDC.0 -
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Am I not looking at the flaw? It looks more like a pin that's part of a complete take-down. I wouldn't complain either, makes it unique. 0 -
callktulu wrote:Am I not looking at the flaw? It looks more like a pin that's part of a complete take-down. I wouldn't complain either, makes it unique.
Well, it pissed me that I missed it when I bought the gun,and it pissed me that QC didn't catch it or care. I expect more for a $1300 gun.0 -
Is the frame aluminum? If so do check where the dust cover meets the frame for a crack. I suppose being 9mm you might not have that issue like I did. Unless that thing saw lots of +P+.
You should keep a few paper clips in the case for the take down.
MIM and plastic bits. My CDPII had a plastic mainspring housing. That reminds me a friend's recent purchase of a Delta Elite also had a plastic mainspring housing. That was a trip.
Yeah, how or why folks plunk down $1300 for a new Kimber I'll never understand.0 -
You got a very great deal on a nice carry piece 0 -
You got a very great deal on a nice carry piece 0 -
So was the MIM issue a recent problem, or something in the past a few years ago? 0 -
Got the custom grips The Boss wanted for her new pistol... whaddya think? 0 -
Resin surrounded by burl wood. Thanks! 0 -
you might find this interesting; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3QZ5b1BLJ40 -
You have to have a "special tool" (called an Allen wrench, last time I looked) in order to field strip the gun for cleaning. I don't think I'll ever be in a SHTF situation where I'll need to literally field strip the gun, but still... seems dumb.
That "special tool" is simply a bent piece of wire. A bent paper clip will work just as well. Just insert the "tool" into the small hole in the guide rod and gently close the slide. The wire will prevent the slide from fully closing and it will captivate the recoil spring. Then align your slide stop with the notch in the slide and push it out. Remove the slide and clean as you normally would.
To reassemble, reverse the procedure. It's very simple and easy.
I really like the Kimber Pro models. I've been shooting them for decades and have never had any issues with them.0 -
montanajoe wrote:
Nice kit, and I can see that being (for the most part) an advantage over the "L-tool." However, it's still an additional piece (now 2, actually - one of which would be VERY easy to lose! :shock: ) to have to carry around if I ever need to field strip.
I know I'm nit-picking, but there are 1911 models out there that don't require ANY tools to disassemble. Why isn't that the standard?0 -
montanajoe wrote:callktulu wrote:mogley98 wrote:Nice gun great deal IMO I'm surprised no one told you not to buy it due to MIM parts LOL
MIM parts? Why is that bad?
Metal Injection Molding, MIM in itself is fine. The problem, is quality control. QC of the process and QC of the materials used for the process. Kimber, as several others had cut corners to meet demand of their product. In doing so a lot of their MIM parts lacked quality and have failed.
One member here had a pro carry that the slide stop/release broke while shooting at the range. Kimber service made good on the gun but it turned the owner away from Kimber.
My 3" SCU has a popped air bubble flaw on the side of the grip safety. (which I did not catch when I bought the gun) I did not complain to the manfc. because they are not getting the gun back to fix it. I live with the flaw and still carry the gun as my EDC.
That's true to an extent. When Kimber first started using MIM parts they were high quality Parts, which was able to bring their costs of producing the firearm way down, hence the high demand making their quality control drop. This went on for several years where they weren't watching the quality that close, and they got a bad name from it. After which time they started watching their quality control a lot better and the newer ones along with the older ones are great pistols...
With that said, I would have no idea of which years Kimbers quality sucked... if I were to buy a used Kimber I would have to research what years their MIM parts was poor quality, and then check to see what year the Kibler firearm I was interested in was manufactured. Before I bought one...
The reason why parts made with MM parts are cheaper is because they do not have to be hand fitted as much as machined parts. MIM parts are made with stricter tolerances than machined parts and are almost a drop in product, please note that I said ALMOST a dropped in product.. that said if you know what you're doing, you can replace all the MIM parts with either new MIM parts or machined parts if you're unsure of the quality of the MIM parts of your firearm...
Put the price that he picked it up for, I definitely would have bought it, then I would have researched and found out what year it was made compared to what year kimber's MIM parts were flawed... and if it fell within the years that Kimber's Mim parts were flawed, he could sell it for a lot more than what he really paid for it, and buy another Kimber that used the higher-quality MIM parts...
if he could get past that stupid California Swartz firing pin block that Kimber have on them that is a common point of failure... of course you could pull the Swartz firing pin block out and just use a stainless steel firing pin that other manufacturers have used to pass California's drop test. But to do that you would not only have to pull the Swartz out, but you also have to change other interior parts that operate the Swartz also... to me it would be just best to sell it, and buy another firearm that doesn't use the Swartz firing pin block that causes reliability problems... but then I'm unfamiliar with Kimber 1911 9 mm products so I don't know if they have the Swartz firing pin block on them like they do on the 45s or not
Of course the best person that I know of to ask on this forum about anything 1911 related would be forged monkey. He is the local 1911 expert here... so if I was him I would address a thread to forged monkey asking him about the Swartz firing pin block and the MIM problems that Kimber had and see what he thinks...
Just my opinion0 -
WOW! Great info, thanks! 0
![https://i.imgur.com/gXgePGk.jpg][/img]](https://i.imgur.com/gXgePGk.jpg][/img]){kind=link}
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