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Stainless S&W Model 10 in .38 S&W

Wyatt Burp
Every now and then I look for a bargain .38 S&W since I have a box of ammo and no gun to shoot it in.

I found this gem as described in the subject:
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/845025977

I also noticed that 28 of the 96 guns on the first page of .38 S&W revolvers are actually .38 Special. Thinking it might be a search function error I clicked on a few of them. The ones I looked at said .38 S&W in the item characteristics, even some that said .38 Special in the title or description.
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Comments

19 comments

Date Votes
  • mrmike08075
    https://www.gunbroker.com/item/845019002

    How about them apples...

    Mike
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  • Sam06
    If its a Model 10 its not Stainless it would be a model 64 I believe.

    That is a nickle plated gun.
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  • savage170
    Sam06 wrote:
    If its a Model 10 its not Stainless it would be a model 64 I believe.

    That is a nickle plated gun.




    Yep maybe a nickel plated victory model the stainless version of the model 10 is the model 64
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  • jimdeere
    For a stainless gun it sure has a lot of stains.
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  • Ricci Wright
    Are you sure S&W made that?? At the very least it has been plated cause S&W didn?t plate hammers or triggers. That whole gun looks funny.
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  • 11b6r
    Well, it is not stainless, and it is not a Model 10. It IS a .38 Special- sorta.

    Look at the tip of the ejector rod- see the large button? Barrel milled away to clear?
    That is a Military & Police Model of 1905, likely 4th change. It started life as a .38 S&W, but it was a common practice to bore the cylinder to take the longer (and skinnier) .38 Special. Look right below the cylinder latch, you can see the aftermarket stamp 38 Special. Accuracy of the smaller bullet thru the larger bore was.... wishful.

    M&P Model of 1905 4th change was made 1915 up until 1942 when S&W started making the Victory Model. Large button on end of ejector rod was dropped around 1927. Serial number would put that at about 1925- and S&W was not making stainless steel revolvers in 1925.

    The Model 10 did not exist until 1957 when S&W began numbering their various models. If you want to know if a nickel plated S&W was factory nickel, look for a small letter N- usually stamped on rear face of cylinder.
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  • toad67
    This might go cheap enough..

    https://www.gunbroker.com/item/844778405
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  • Wyatt Burp
    toad67 wrote:
    This might go cheap enough..

    https://www.gunbroker.com/item/844778405

    Thanks, but I have a beautiful 6" model 10.

    If I could get this one in person for $99 I would:

    https://www.gunbroker.com/item/845292688
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  • mrmike08075
    I support the opinion that it could have been a British wartime .38-200 chambered handgun in the past...

    Most folk after the war would have had trouble finding that ammo in the US - not me but most.

    Changing it to .38 special or converting it seems like a natural progression for use of sale.

    Mike
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  • Sam06
    As stated above it will never shoot right unless the barrel was swapped out too.

    Its a bubba gun at best.
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  • mrmike08075
    https://www.gunbroker.com/item/845290339

    Give me an hour with Zhuks handgun line drawing profile guide and several other references and I would positively id make model and COO of both guns...

    The .38 S&W of course has easily identifiable American origin grip panels with distinct dog face emblem embossed...

    The .32-20 I almost certainly Spanish - I doubt it's Belgian.

    I bet if he took the panels off he would have found more markings - I fail to believe both guns have been sanitized off markings except for a number...

    How does he entry them in his bound books - as unknown??? That won't fly with the batfe especially if done repeatedly as I suspect this guy does.

    Sloppy and lazy and dangerous.

    Mike
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  • David Nunn
    I sent this:

    "It's not a model 10, and it's not stainless. It's a WWII era M&P, maybe a Victory Model, and it's been seriously bubba-ized. It's a POS. Please edit the auction to describe it accurately. nunn"

    Regarding this:

    https://www.gunbroker.com/item/845290339

    I know some people may have an item and have no idea what it is, but I have no sympathy for anyone who tries to BS his way through to describe and sell it.

    If I don't know what it is, I go ahead and post the auction, stating that I don't know what it is. Usually, one or more of my good Gunbroker friends will step forward with the correct identification.
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  • 11b6r
    Gents- as I stated- that is not a WW2 production revolver. SN puts production in the 1920s.

    It is not a Model 10 and it is not stainless.
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  • mrmike08075
    Any gun were the receiver or frame is marked with one caliber and the bbl is marked with a different non compatible caliber is a big red flag...

    As to the grip panels - they were not on this gun when manufactured - I have seen grip panels shrink in size exposing metal - never gain in size overlapping the edges of the grip frame base by a wide margin...

    While I sympathize and understand that not everyone is an expert - in every type or period of arms - pushing this basket case hand grenade of as described is criminally liable.

    Modern .38 special ammo or even a .357 if it fits will detonate this gun most Ricky tick...

    Call it a gunsmith special and non functional - not to be fired without being checked out by a gunsmith - or sell it as a parts gun and take a partial loss on the sale price...

    Some idiot will buy this and load some modern self defense .38 special hot loads and lose some fingers when it blows up.

    Not a critical rant about gun broker or the forums or admin or mods or auction side rules...

    I did this for close to 20 years and it's not the way I was taught or conducted myself.

    He is not selling a clock or piece of jewelry he is selling a gun.

    How stupid can you be.

    Mike
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  • mrmike08075
    I have neither the knowledge or skill to discern and identify...

    But I am told that if they are factory S&W MOP grip panels they are worth a pretty penny and highly sought after even in fair condition...

    I have a set made from tortoise shell manufactured by of all people a vintage banjo (guitars and other instruments) maker...

    Good question - I too await the responses from those in the know.

    Mike
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  • Aztngundoc22
    OK :

    I own a bunch of S&W revolvers , have collected for years :

    Stay away from this thing !!!

    Bad nickle over bad finish , poor fitting grips , cal.??? , I would venture a good guess that the timing is a bit off , and ?????

    Thanks !!!!
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  • Horse Plains Drifter
    I see he changed description of the finish from stainless to nickel.
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  • KenK/84Bravo
    That is one Fugly looking firearm.

    Not on a bad bet.

    For all the reasons stated above. Most of what he seems to offer, is of the same sort. Pass.
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  • mrmike08075
    Lanyard has been removed and the pin that replaced it has been plated over. The gun was originally a .38 S&W and has been bored out to a .38 S&W special.

    Okay now - that's certainly an improvement :mrgreen:

    I need to get me one of those .38 S&W Special revolvers

    Or maybe bore out my .38 S&W bbl to accept them.

    Sigh.

    How can someone selling guns and writing auction descriptions about firearms be so careless and stupid???

    Perhaps they have heard of Wikipedia or the internet.

    Sigh.

    Mike
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