Flex Seal
Anyone have any recommendations on Flex Seal? Would like to possibly use it on my used RV roof. Silicone products are not recommended for RVs. The silicone won't bond to the rubber type roof, thus there will still be a place for moisture.
Thought I'd ask here, the Flex Seal is labeled for such uses, but also pricy. Thank's in advance.
Thought I'd ask here, the Flex Seal is labeled for such uses, but also pricy. Thank's in advance.
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So yours already has the rubberized roof? Is it a fiberglass laminated camper, or metal? Depending on how long you want to keep it and how much you have invested, getting a replacement rubber roof installed isn't that bad. Most have a warranty against leaks for a period of time. Most RV damage comes from the sun and from leaks. Probably due to the building materials in campers, it does not take much of a leak to cause major damage.
I got some stuff to repair my campers roof at the camper place. it was rated for both direct metal contact, as well as rubber contact. If I remember right, it was between $12-20. But, it takes very little. I will say that if you do patch it, while you are up there you might as well look around, take off the covers on the vents, AC, etc. Look for any divots at all where water will sit. Even if it doesn't go through now, it will eventually. It absolutely amazed me how quickly roofs on them start to deteriorate once they start.0 -
https://youtu.be/6RuFUy_7CmM
The more you know...
Mike0 -
had a small fishpond I cut the hard liner and put a drain in the bottom for. tried to seal that liner up with just about everything, one thing I found out about flexseal was it would stick to liner, plastic, metal ect, but some places I had put silicone around the drain it just fell off it, I sprayed the entire bottom and up the sides about 4 inches with the stuff it would still leak, just wouldn't stick to silicone or to itself very good. ended up putting a rubber sheet/liner in the pond and problem solved. If you are not sure what is on the roof it may not stick to existing rubber/sealer that is allready there, once it is dried and cured it seemed to want to separate from the sealant that was allready there, hope it works for you 0 -
I have used the black Flex Seal on some rubber boots and it did OK at best. On a camper roof membrane you generally have two types 1) EPDM rubber and 2) PVC. PVC is the best out there IMO. There is a company called Dicor that sells caulk gun tubes of roof sealant and all kinds of RV roofing products. Make sure the type you get is compatible with the type of membrane you have. It generally sells for around $10 for a caulk gun tube of it. They also sell repair tape rolls and a recoating system I have used before that you roll on like paint to recoat the entire roof. It was about $200 for the kit, but I was able to apply 4 thick coats to my 27' RV roof and it sealed it up- no leaks. Best of luck. Don 0 -
Let me tell you my experience with Flex Seal. I had my wife?s car in the garage and was going to clean the windows. The spray can of Flex Seal looked just like the aerosol window cleaner.
Yep, I sprayed the outside of the windshield with Flex Seal.i grabbed a jug of paint thinner and some rags and began remediation.
I got 99.5% of it off, but there?s still a bit in the corner.
Flex Seal does NOT make good window cleaner!0 -
jimdeere wrote:Let me tell you my experience with Flex Seal. I had my wife?s car in the garage and was going to clean the windows. The spray can of Flex Seal looked just like the aerosol window cleaner.
Yep, I sprayed the outside of the windshield with Flex Seal.i grabbed a jug of paint thinner and some rags and began remediation.
I got 99.5% of it off, but there?s still a bit in the corner.
Flex Seal does NOT make good window cleaner!
gotta admit though Jim the windshield was cleaner after you sprayed the flex seal on it, than before........0 -
In my opinion it is all junk the tape, liquid Etc.
I tried some and it didn't work worth a damn.
Almost got ate by a shark trying to swim to shore after that damn boat I cut in half sunk
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On the other hand WHY don't they use a solid fiberglass or such roof no penetrations or seams? AC could go on the side or back why poke holes in a roof RVS are notorious for leaking I would market one guaranteed not to leak. 0 -
I agree. Why don't they make them with aluminum roofs like they used to? I owned some RV's that were made in the 60's and 70's that never leaked with the aluminum roof. I think the reason they use the membrane is so the RV will eventually fail and have to be replaced. Fiberglass with gelcoat would be a good option for a RV roof as well. Look at all the Scamps, Casitas and other fiberglass campers still out there. They never have roof leaks and never need roof maintenance or the expensive roof replacement. Its a scam. I built a garage to park my new RV in. When they sit out in the weather, they go downhill quick and that's what the manufacturers want so you will keep buying new ones. I refused to buy a new RV ($33,000) until I had the garage built to store it in. A good friend of mine bought a new one in 2015 and it sits outside baking in the sun and all weather year round. In just 4 years it is faded and looks like crap. Just my .02 :shock:GilWilson1 wrote:On the other hand WHY don't they use a solid fiberglass or such roof no penetrations or seams? AC could go on the side or back why poke holes in a roof RVS are notorious for leaking I would market one guaranteed not to leak.0 -
jimdeere wrote:Let me tell you my experience with Flex Seal. I had my wife?s car in the garage and was going to clean the windows. The spray can of Flex Seal looked just like the aerosol window cleaner.
Yep, I sprayed the outside of the windshield with Flex Seal.i grabbed a jug of paint thinner and some rags and began remediation.
I got 99.5% of it off, but there?s still a bit in the corner.
Flex Seal does NOT make good window cleaner!
But does the windshield let any water leak through?0 -
Back when I had a travel trailer up until 2014 people were sold on Eternabond for roof repair on the RV forums. I've still got a roll of it somewhere. There may be better stuff today but 5 years ago a lot of people were using it. It works on all kinds of roofs such as EPDM, TPO, PVC, Hypalon, metal, and tile.
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Check the net for reviews of Flex Seal. It only works on television. I have used gorilla tape with equivocal results. I would go with a paint on product or a roof membrane for flat roofs. Used a lot here in NM and some of it is pretty durable. Maybe you could get a roofer to apply it and get a pro job. 0 -
Tried using the spray on a gutter at work.
It still leaks.
I wouldn't cut the floor out of my boat and tear the screen door off of my house to replace it.0 -
Used it on a Cast Iron Sewer line that had a crack. Sealed it like a weld. No leaks and it has been a very long time. Went back and put a second coat a year later. Worked great. My boat is an all welded one. 0 -
Fibered roofing tar, with roof fibered mesh on seams and laps. 0 -
I used a piece of flextape to fix a hole in the bottom of my pool. Put it on while it was full.
It has been on there for 2 years now, and while a corner of it has curled over, the rest of it has stayed put and the leak is stopped.0 -
I had the rubber roof replaced on our toyhauler after 14 yrs.
I was told that was a good life for one. I cleaned and treated it yearly
New one with all new vents [AC- Fridge vents and TV antenna] cost me $3800 installed [6 yrs ago]
Check rv.net as I can't remember the newer coatings offered but some new ones are supposed to be very good.
Flex seal? LOL Tried it on a gutter- NG!0 -
I don't have leaks (that I know of ) just preventive maintenance. Small hair line cracks around ac unit, etc. 0 -
As mentioned above regarding RV roofs and why they keep making them that way...
I have wondered why they don't put a ridge on them. It wouldn't probably take much.
When my wife and I married in '90, we were given a 10x50 mobile home. It leaked and needed a complete renovation but we figured we could fix it up for less than the cost of rent and have something worth at least a little bit in the end. It originally had 1x4's on 12" centers for the roof. The long unsupported area above the kitchen and living room area had sagged. Water then pooled, which stretched the metal, the seams, and eventually broke the joists. So, after looking at it, I decided to use 2x6's on the roof on 16" centers (easier to insulate too). But, since the side walls were only 3.5", I cut a long, shallow taper from the center point down. I then put on roofing tar made for metal over the seams. After that cured, I painted the whole thing with that aluminized silver roof coating. We were there ~5-6 years and never had a leak during that time. I sincerely believe that if I had left it flat, we would have. Of course the more slope they add, the less chance it will leak, but just a 2" drop over ~5' seemed to be enough in this instance.0 -
I put a strip on the top of my cab tractor. It seems to seal good and no leaks. If it will last it is good stuff.
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