chain saw pros chime in
ok, im not a total dummy, so bare with me.
this is a classic 64cc 18" craftsman saw.
I did all the traditional checks.
air filter cleaned.
gas mixture ok.
oil in bar tank.
gapped the plug.
new plug.
clutch is fine.
this is the issue.
it starts just fine.
idles just fine.
revs at full trigger just fine.
the minute you put it to wood, it dogs out under load.
dies.
let it sit a minute.
starts again idles again.
dogs under load on wood.
q:
wrong plug?
bad gas?
ideas?
this is a classic 64cc 18" craftsman saw.
I did all the traditional checks.
air filter cleaned.
gas mixture ok.
oil in bar tank.
gapped the plug.
new plug.
clutch is fine.
this is the issue.
it starts just fine.
idles just fine.
revs at full trigger just fine.
the minute you put it to wood, it dogs out under load.
dies.
let it sit a minute.
starts again idles again.
dogs under load on wood.
q:
wrong plug?
bad gas?
ideas?
0
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I never had one do that. does it begin to cut and then bog or bogs soon as it touches wood? 0 -
Its a Craftsman. 0 -
Dirty fuel filter, or dirty/clogged high speed jet in carb. It is supplying enough fuel to freespool the engine, but not enough to carry the the engine under load. Replace fuel filter. If that doesn't cure it, rebuild the carb. 0 -
Top end shot/gone. Check the compression.
After spending the cost of a new saw last year to have both mine looked at, that is what i was told. (After) spending the $$ on "repair/evaluation."
They worked fine on start up, remotely get warmed up/under load - died. "No replacement parts." Can't complain though, for what I paid for them, I used the snot out of them cutting much firewood up North. Got my $$'s worth out of them.
Ended up buying a new saw at a good deal on Black Friday from Tractor Supply.
Cost me less than having both my old saws "repaired."
Jltrent is your Guy. He should be along at some point.0 -
Horse Plains Drifter wrote:Dirty fuel filter, or dirty/clogged high speed jet in carb. It is supplying enough fuel to freespool the engine, but not enough to carry the the engine under load. Replace fuel filter. If that doesn't cure it, rebuild the carb.
Sounds like a solution to me. Fuel filter first, make a hook on the end of a wire, fish it out of the tank. Shouldn't be very expensive.0 -
Ken, what brand did you buy? 0 -
RIA10MM wrote:Ken, what brand did you buy?
Old saws were a well used Poulan Pro, and an equally well used McCullough.
New Saw is a 55cc Paulin Pro with a 22" bar. $99 reg $179. Black Friday deal only.
I paid probably $99 for my last (smaller) Paulin Pro. McCullogh was larger, probably $150-$175 ish.
Again - for what I paid for them, they cut a crapload of wood. I definately got my $$ worth out of them.
Only felt screwed when I tried to have both of them checked out/repaired. When taken back in after about 20 minutes worth of use? "Well, yes we did notice the compression was low on both of them."
Well then, why not freakin' call me before attempting a repair?
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it will cut about 5" into wood and then slowly dog out. rrrrup ruuuup ruuuuuup.
its a 2002. its got me thru 5 hurricanes. man it was a work horse.
I just had the filter changed. the filter and fuel line is new.
im going to look at the jet issue.
what about the carb crank seal? how can I pin point that if it is?0 -
Oh, check that your muffler isn?t clogged. 0 -
bobski,
I have a new Oregon (2) saw chain pack (S62) 91 low profile.
18? Craftman, Poulan Pro.
If it?s compatible let me know.0 -
mufflers good. 0 -
if the crank seals are bad its not worth fooling with. if you are interested in an opinion, get you a mid level husqvarna, they will last the average homeowner a long time. yeah Stihl is very good but not everyone needs a $600 saw for occasional use. 0 -
Difference being I've let a Sthil set up for months and crank right up, others not so much varian wrote:if the crank seals are bad its not worth fooling with. if you are interested in an opinion, get you a mid level husqvarna, they will last the average homeowner a long time. yeah Stihl is very good but not everyone needs a $600 saw for occasional use.0 -
you are mostly right with that statement Mr. Wilson and having worked on hundreds of those carbs i cant quite figure that out. they are all pretty much the same and many times the same brand. the way i solve that problem is by starting any 2 stroke motor i own every couple of months to keep fresh gas in the system, and no fuel with alcohol period. 0 -
Try adjusting both the low and high speed jets in the carb. I had the same issue this spring with one of my saws, adjusting the jets cleared the problem up. 0 -
Trash it and get a Stihl 0 -
needs a carburetor adjustment. take it into a shop, let them fiddle with it. will be running like a champ when you get it back. 0 -
KenK/84Bravo wrote:Top end shot/gone. Check the compression.
After spending the cost of a new saw last year to have both mine looked at, that is what i was told. (After) spending the $$ on "repair/evaluation."
They worked fine on start up, remotely get warmed up/under load - died. "No replacement parts." Can't complain though, for what I paid for them, I used the snot out of them cutting much firewood up North. Got my $$'s worth out of them.
Ended up buying a new saw at a good deal on Black Friday from Tractor Supply.
Cost me less than having both my old saws "repaired."
Jltrent is your Guy. He should be along at some point.
Yep, all the minutia tune-up stuff accomplished and you still have the problem, sounds like pistons/rings to me. Seen a number of 2-cycles suffer similar early death because not enough oil added to the mix.0 -
You-Tube it. There's some guy on there who starts all his clips with a beer. He's Canadian. He gives lots of detail. 0 -
if it's not smoking (more than a chainsaw...) I don't think it's the piston rings.
if you think it's the piston rings or head gasket, try a compression test. or is it too easy to pull start. (low compression)0 -
A couple of ideas you can check quick. If the guide bar groove is gummed up the chain can get overtight as soon as you try to cut. When it bogs check the chain tension, clean out the chain guide grooves. Guide cleaning tools are cheap.
The chain drive links come in different sizes (widths) a mismatch between the thickness of the chain drive link and the chain guide groove can cause similar issues. Too small and the chain guide grooves get clogged and the chain binds, to thick and the chain binds. Same thing can happen when you use the wrong chain 3/8 or .325, usually makes a wierd sound, kind of a crunching sound.
Especially on long chain guides, there is a roller on the working end of the chain guide. The axle for the roller can wear through. Many chains have an oil hole to lube the roller.
Edit: Almost forgot, check the insides of the clutch, burnt wood/carbon and Tar /Pine Tar can cause the clutch to stick and/or bind.0 -
yeah, when the bar/sprocket are clogged or dry of oil you start to see sparks. long before it's bad enough to stop the engine, that would have to be pretty bad. 0 -
bobski wrote:what about the carb crank seal? how can I pin point that if it is?
The proper way to test the crankcase seals, is with a vacuum pump. Pull a vacuum on the crankcase(I don't know what the spec. is)and see if it holds vacuum.
The logger way is to start the saw, and make sure it is idling good. Tip the saw starter side up, then clutch side up, then upside down. If the idle stays fairly steady the seals are most likely good. If the idle gets erratic(saw leans out, and engine speeds up)there is a seal leaking.0 -
buschmaster wrote:yeah, when the bar/sprocket are clogged or dry of oil you start to see sparks. long before it's bad enough to stop the engine, that would have to be pretty bad.
I had it happen to me once, axle fell out and it took me a while to figure it out, the guide bar wore really badly near the tip and was smoking, caused a lot of drag on the chain.0 -
I don't suppose you have a very dull chain or bent bar? 0 -
"it will cut about 5" into wood and then slowly dog out. rrrrup ruuuup ruuuuuup"
Check the gas cap vent.0 -
My handle use to be jltrent as it has changed. I couldn't get jltrent to work after 19 years of my BS so started out new. I feel like a new person now.
That should be an easy fix as I have worked on them for years. A lot of good ideals so far. As mention compression could be borderline, tank vent issue, muffler clogged, high side of carb adjustment needs a little more fuel or less fuel, a couple times I have ran into the fuel line and or impulse line having a very small hole or not fitting up well cause this issue or similar.. If it idles correct that eliminates some as a saw with an air leak will idle erratic. Without the saw in hand it is hard to eliminate some of these as issues.. With all of these it is either a gas, air, mechanical issue and the first thing is to hone in and eliminate and then start going after the path.
I have to add a little saw porn as I bought out a closed sawmills parts/junk saws and so far got these back in great shape and a couple more close to finished.
Here are 6 Stihl MS660/066/064s completed in great shape as I have two more not in the picture completed and two more in the rebuild process. Talk about power as in the parts I had several OEM dual port mufflers and a few small enhancements I made, these will rock and roll. It takes a man to handle these cutting and start with the high compression.0 -
jrent wrote:That should be an easy fix as I have worked on them for years. A lot of good ideals so far. As mention compression could be borderline, tank vent issue, muffler clogged, high side of carb adjustment needs a little more fuel or less fuel, a couple times I have ran into the fuel line and or impulse line having a very small hole or not fitting up well cause this issue or similar.. If it idles correct that eliminates some as a saw with an air leak will idle erratic. Without the saw in hand it is hard to eliminate some of these as issues.. With all of these it is either a gas or air issue and the first thing is to hone in and eliminate one of them and then start going after the path.
I have to add a little saw porn as I bought out a closed sawmills parts/junk saws and so far got these back in great shape and a couple more close to finished.
Here are 6 Stihl MS660/066/064s completed in great shape as I have two more not in the picture completed and two more in the rebuild process. Talk about power as in the parts I had several OEM dual port mufflers and a few small enhancements I made, these will rock and roll.
Nice!
I used a MS660 with a monster bar (30-32"?) at the sawmill I worked at for for a couple years, as a Heavy Equipment Operator (Volvo Grapple loader.) about 5 years ago. It was a beast.
What do you do with all the saws you repair Sir? Sell any? I am not too far from you.0 -
...reading this with interest. I have an old 026 with similar issues (Sentimental value, a gift from my deceased brother.) I'd about given up on it as too expensive to fix, but will check out a few of these suggestions. Maybe it's not quite as worn out as I thought. Thanks guys. 0 -
One of the best, check the PTO side and the smaller flywheel oil seal as they are common to leak after years. Pull the muffler and see what the piston looks like.ChrisStreett wrote:...reading this with interest. I have an old 026 with similar issues (Sentimental value, a gift from my deceased brother.) I'd about given up on it as too expensive to fix, but will check out a few of these suggestions. Maybe it's not quite as worn out as I thought. Thanks guys.0
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