for you woodworking guys
i have a sling swivel hole in a stock i want to fill . i know it will never be perfect but i want it better than it is. ive refinished antique furniture in the pas t and am pretty good at it, so i have a little knowledge. so today i go to the store and buy a jar of putty, fairly close color match. after i get home im reading the instructions and they say "non hardening" will not harden to a sandably surface. WTH good is it if it dosent harden. is this used to fill a hole and then put a finish over it. not what i want to do at all. are there puttys available that do harden? i guess ill have to read the fine print a little more closely.
0
-
Not a wood working fool but here is what I would do:
Put a sling swivel in it
Get some of those plastic thing to fill a sling swivel hole like Marlin has
Get a dowel about the same diameter. Finish it close and tap/glue it in.
Accuraglass and some color/wood dust from the stock under the buttpad
Maybe enlarge the hole and glue/glass a cartridge case.0 -
NOOOOOOOO! Use no putty to fill a little sling hole in a stock! Find yourself a piece of wood in the same type as your stock is made out of. Walnut, maple, whatever. A round wooden dowel can be made out of the same wood, making sure your new wood grain pattern matches the grain flow of your stock. Glue in the round dowel, sand carefully to align surfaces and stain to match your wood. Put a good matching finish coat to protect. 0 -
Brookwood wrote:NOOOOOOOO! Use no putty to fill a little sling hole in a stock! Find yourself a piece of wood in the same type as your stock is made out of. Walnut, maple, whatever. A round wooden dowel can be made out of the same wood, making sure your new wood grain pattern matches the grain flow of your stock. Glue in the round dowel, sand carefully to align surfaces and stain to match your wood. Put a good matching finish coat to protect.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^This. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^0 -
??? haven't seen any wood putty that wasn't hardening.
aside from wood putty, lots of wood glues are sandable and paintable. I like Titebond better than Elmer's. only problem is it will probably shrink a little so you could get around that by applying it in layers. (in the hole)
maybe JB Weld. not as hard as they say it is but it's a thought. I know it's sandable, maybe paintable have to read the package.
then there is the nuclear option. PL400 or F26 subfloor adhesive. see what you can do with that.0 -
buschmaster wrote:??? haven't seen any wood putty that wasn't hardening.
aside from wood putty, lots of wood glues are sandable and paintable. I like Titebond better than Elmer's. only problem is it will probably shrink a little so you could get around that by applying it in layers. (in the hole)
maybe JB Weld. not as hard as they say it is but it's a thought. I know it's sandable, maybe paintable have to read the package.
then there is the nuclear option. PL400 or F26 subfloor adhesive. see what you can do with that.
I have repaired several wood stock cracks, with Blue Titebond. (Blue, is waterproof, red is not.) Good stuff.
Would still use a matching wood dowel, with Blue Titebond around the dowel, to hold in place. Sand it out, good to go.0 -
some good starts here
correct in NEVER using store bought wood putty :?
1 - find a piece of scrap wod same tone as your stock and shave it to a size to fill the hole
2 - after the inserting with the grain running same as on the stock and glued in place, use 220 to 400 grit wet/dry paper with some linseed oil to sand over the spot.
this will fill any small cracks, open grain as well as help blend things together. (you are filling with wood "dirt' from the existing stock
3 - after smoothing to your desired finish, allow several days for the oil to dry before layering more linseed oil to desired shine level or apply whatever finish suits you0 -
I might consider the other route, rather than making it look like it was never there, put a nice pearl inlay or some other bling in the spot. 0 -
WHat you bought is what I call Color Putty, it comes in lots of different colors and you can mix them to get the perfect shade for your project. I just used some tonight on a mantel I am building. I stain the wood put a sealer coat on, let it dry sand then mix and fill any nail holes etc. then squirt a couple more clear coats on. It doesn't shrink and crack like the harder ones. Just dont use it on big holes. It is better in my opinion than buying the drying harder kind of putties like Famo wood or some of the water based. Those tend to take on stain darker than the wood you stain does . For what your doing a plug or Dutchman as small as you can will work best. you may have extra wood you can borrow from inside the stock under the receiver or barrel 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
9 comments