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Undercoating Choice -

KenK/84Bravo
After a fair amount of research and discussion, amongst knowledgeable friends/co-workers/Automotive Specialists, etc.

I have decided to treat the undercarriage/frame etc. of my Jeep with Nexum Anti-rust treatment. (After sanding/wire brush, bead blasting, etc.) Neutralizes, and black primers the next coating. Going with Duplicolor Truck Bed liner coating.

Textured, dries rock hard, and will last.

Rubberized under coating, [ my original choice,] (which Duplicolor also makes,) stays soft, does not harden up. (Crap clings to it, makes things difficult to work on.)



I believe this is a better choice.





Conflicting opinions, better choices, welcomed.
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Comments

29 comments

Date Votes
  • wpageabc
    With the new treatments at the factory.

    This is un needed no?
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  • KenK/84Bravo
    wpageabc wrote:
    With the new treatments at the factory.

    This is un needed no?



    You would think so, but after a couple years of aggresive Salt treatment due to Winter conditions, my frame/undercarriage went from "looks great!" to "Oh Crap."


    Jeep lifted, a lot of frame/undercarriage exposed. Got to get it looking/lasting sharp. :D
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  • wpageabc
    Got it.
    What I do with my H3 Hummer. At each oil change which I do against my neighbors advise. Jacking up the front then the back.

    Go over all the rust spots with wire brush and then simply spray with creap oil lube or what is handy. My 2006 still looks good underneath.

    Even + 100k Lots of it off road and in the northeast.
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  • remingtonoaks
    I just undercoated a 65 Mustang, my original thoughts was also Dupli-Color bed liner. But after reading a bunch of stuff on some classic car restore forums, almost everybody agreed that Raptor bed liner is a lot more durable than Dupli-Color bedliner, or any other product out there that you can use to undercoat a vehicle

    It's also tintable, so you can spray it in any color you want. I just sprayed the 65 Mustang in Black

    They also have a anti-corrosive epoxy primer the specific for it

    I also found it a lot cheaper online the ones online came with a free spray gun for it. I saved a bunch of money buying online
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  • asphalt cowboy
    Don't know about their current coating, but 20 years ago it was epoxy which is a preferred rust inhibitor because of its high zinc content. I would think if the can says you can reduce (thin) with 10% or so acetone it would be an epoxy base.
    Regardless what top coating you use I'd recommend stripping to bare clean steel and shoot a coat, or two, of reduced epoxy primer.
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  • Ricci Wright
    Dude you know what I would use. Need a couple of gallons????
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  • KenK/84Bravo
    Ricci Wright wrote:
    Dude you know what I would use. Need a couple of gallons????




    If I wished to use the BWBPC, I have plenty to scrape off the multiple Firearms, I have aquirred from you.

    Thank you though.

    Always helpful. :):o :roll:
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  • us55840
    Anyone that thinks factory treatment on the newer vehicles will prevent rust ...... need only look at some 5 - 6 year old vehicles where salt and other products are used on the streets in the winter.

    They are rust out over the wheel wells and the front fenders flap in the breeze like a wounded bird.

    Sadly, this is the fault of the younger generations (and politicians created 'government knows best' while they get rich) that demand roads/streets be as dry as mid July in 100 degree heat 'cause they have no idea how to drive on ice or snow.

    :twisted: :twisted:
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  • Ricci Wright
    I used to love International Harvester Scout II trucks and owned about a half dozen. Some of the very best 4x4 rigs ever made but damn on a quite night you could hear them rust.
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  • KenK/84Bravo
    Ricci Wright wrote:
    I used to love International Harvester Scout II trucks and owned about a half dozen. Some of the very best 4x4 rigs ever made but damn on a quite night you could hear them rust.

    Owned a very nice 1972' International Scout II, Lots of mods to it. It was awesome! 304 V8, custom frame over exhaust, dual headers. 4 barrel carb., lifted, Kelly Safari Tires, etc. etc. Would love to have it back, irregardless of the various rust issues. :cry:


    I traded a worked 1974 Camaro Z-28 for it, back in the day. Drove it cross country, and had it in Denver, CO. when I was stationed there. (When Mt. Saint Helens blew, it was covered with 1/2" Volcanic ash.) Drove it back cross country, to where I was stationed near Gatlinburg, PA. Had it a couple years there.

    Miss it. Would love to have it back.


    It was the sheet metal on them that was the problem, not the frame.

    Primarily, over the rear wheels and the inner rear fender wells.
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  • wpageabc
    Each spring you should power wash your under carrige on your rig to get the "spackle" of salts and other chems that are put on the roadways.

    If not you will be subject to the chemical action of agents like chorine and salt which will eat any substance.
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  • KenK/84Bravo
    wpageabc wrote:
    Each spring you should power wash your under carrige on your rig to get the "spackle" of salts and other chems that are put on the roadways.

    If not you will be subject to the chemical action of agents like chorine and salt which will eat any substance.




    Yes sir.


    Hence my current problem.
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  • nmyers
    If you live in an area where they use salt on the roads during the winter, there is only one way to prevent rust: Do not take your car out of the garage from October to March.

    Neal
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  • KenK/84Bravo
    nmyers wrote:
    If you live in an area where they use salt on the roads during the winter, there is only one way to prevent rust: Do not take your car out of the garage from October to March.

    Neal


    Although I would love to partake of that action, my Jeep - is the preferred vehicle when it gets nasty out.

    Nissan Versa Hatchback (commuter vehicle.) Although sporting Winter specific tires on the front, (front wheel drive,) when it gets deep, it is the Jeep. :)
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  • remingtonoaks
    wpageabc wrote:
    Each spring you should power wash your under carrige on your rig to get the "spackle" of salts and other chems that are put on the roadways.

    If not you will be subject to the chemical action of agents like chorine and salt which will eat any substance.

    I buy monthly pass from a local car wash that has an undercarriage wash in it. Because it's a monthly pass I can use it on a daily basis if I wish, and I do use it almost on a daily basis, especially during the winter.
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  • select-fire
    Metal rusts from the inside out. The best in restorations https://www.por15.com/
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  • wpageabc
    Good information thanks...
    select-fire wrote:
    Metal rusts from the inside out. The best in restorations https://www.por15.com/
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  • jimdeere
    select-fire wrote:
    Metal rusts from the inside out. The best in restorations https://www.por15.com/
    I don?t know about any of the other treatments, they all sound good.
    But I do know about POR 15. It supposedly reacts with the rust to form a rust resistant coating. I painted a 6x12 utility trailer about six years ago with it. Is sold it later, but talked to the owner recently and he said it still hasn?t rusted.
    It?s pricey but I Painted the entire trailer with a half pint. That?s right, a half pint.
    You don?t need to remove existing rust, just the heavy scale.
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  • KenK/84Bravo
    jimdeere wrote:
    select-fire wrote:
    Metal rusts from the inside out. The best in restorations https://www.por15.com/
    I don?t know about any of the other treatments, they all sound good.
    But I do know about POR 15. It supposedly reacts with the rust to form a rust resistant coating. I painted a 6x12 utility trailer about six years ago with it. Is sold it later, but talked to the owner recently and he said it still hasn?t rusted.
    It?s pricey but I Painted the entire trailer with a half pint. That?s right, a half pint.
    You don?t need to remove existing rust, just the heavy scale.



    Thanks Select and Jim. I will look into it. I appreciate the information and your input.

    -Ken-
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  • us55840
    wpageabc wrote:
    Each spring you should power wash your under carrige on your rig to get the "spackle" of salts and other chems that are put on the roadways.

    If not you will be subject to the chemical action of agents like chorine and salt which will eat any substance.

    I buy monthly pass from a local car wash that has an undercarriage wash in it. Because it's a monthly pass I can use it on a daily basis if I wish, and I do use it almost on a daily basis, especially during the winter.

    Did you inquire at the car wash if they use fresh water for every wash .... or do they use recycled water like many do? The recycled water may be 'clean' but is full of sodium chloride aka SALT!

    ;)
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  • remingtonoaks
    Quick&Dead wrote:
    wpageabc wrote:
    Each spring you should power wash your under carrige on your rig to get the "spackle" of salts and other chems that are put on the roadways.

    If not you will be subject to the chemical action of agents like chorine and salt which will eat any substance.

    I buy monthly pass from a local car wash that has an undercarriage wash in it. Because it's a monthly pass I can use it on a daily basis if I wish, and I do use it almost on a daily basis, especially during the winter.

    Did you inquire at the car wash if they use fresh water for every wash .... or do they use recycled water like many do? The recycled water may be 'clean' but is full of sodium chloride aka SALT!

    ;)

    Good question, I would assume it's fresh, or treated to remove all the salts. I've been going there since the early 90s and never had a problem with rust
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  • Sam06
    I think you are making a mistake. But its yours to make. You will just seal the rust under the coating and it will continue to eat the metal while being hidden.

    I told you about POR-15 on the other thread, you need to stop the rust and stabilize the metal, POR-15 will do that.

    Good luck
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  • KenK/84Bravo
    Sam06 wrote:
    I think you are making a mistake. But its yours to make. You will just seal the rust under the coating and it will continue to eat the metal while being hidden.

    I told you about POR-15 on the other thread, you need to stop the rust and stabilize the metal, POR-15 will do that.

    Good luck



    I am willing to learn/expand my knowledge base. I will explore POR-15.

    Thank you all for your input.
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  • Smitty500mag
    In the 16 years that I've owned my truck it's never been driven in the snow and ice or off road so it still looks pretty much like new underneath. Every time I lube the chassis and change the oil, which is once a year since I average putting less than 5,000 miles a year on it, I wipe it down underneath including the frame, shocks, rear-end housing, fender wells, spare tire etc and also wipe everything down under the hood.

    I use WD-40 to clean and wipe with. I've never had anything but bad experiences with the electrical system when it comes to spraying water under the hood of one of my vehicles for cleaning.

    Living here in the South on the 3 or 4 occasions that it has snowed during the past 16 years I just left my vehicles in the garage and stayed home. You don't want to be on the road in bad weather any where near Atlanta 'cause the drivers will kill you. Actually that's pretty good advice for any where in the South especially the bigger cities.

    lGLE7xg.jpg

    Sv76ST7.jpg
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  • buddyb
    The last Ford pick up I owned had an oil leak that was very difficult to stop.The undercarriage never rusted even in Asheville NC.
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  • KenK/84Bravo
    Miss-spoke, it was not "Nexum" anti-rust coating I purchased (did not sound right,) but Permatex. It was recommended above all the other treatments O'Reilly's carried. Like/similar to POR-15, Permatex claims it is a "Rust Conversion/Treatment." Unless heavy scale is present, you can spray on/treat. Allow 24 hours to dry, and then use a follow up coat."

    I stopped in on the way home this evening to see if they had/or could get POR-15. Nope. They offered me an alternative, "Special Order.)

    Based on what you guys have been saying, I am holding out for POR-15.

    Thanks again for the input. I appreciate it.

    (This place is a Goldmine of information/Knowledgeable Folks. That why I come/hang out here. No place quite like it.)

    Thanks,

    -Ken-
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  • Ditch-Runner
    Not promoting a company
    I have used POR 15 always did well one of current cars a 69 camaro I bought about 15 years ago out of Kansas I live in rust state of Ohio .
    when I got it home I stripped out the interior and under side cleaned an d treated with POR 15 I have done other cars and trucks also , but this one I can attest the POR 15 is still doing its job .
    go to Eastwood web site they have many different items to restore , protect classic cars ( or flebay ) to find it POR makes treatments and base coats to go along with the coating ,
    lot of good info on eastwoods site about it also . it bonds and will flex with the metal and do not get it on you while applying it . trust me on thet one they were right :o

    https://www.eastwood.com/paints.html
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  • JasonV
    The project farm youtube channel just did a bed liner shoot out comparison and plasticoat won. It depends on the area you leave as some are better in heat and some better in cold.

    Here is a link to it.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWFIwJUSo6c
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  • select-fire
    U Pol Raptor... never used it but bought it with spraygun and 8 bottles to spray the whole truck. Sold the truck. Would put a texture on the whole vehicle.
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