Ruger GP-100 cylinder gap question
My 6" SS GP-100 will slowly become hard to turn after 30-50 rounds. It is binding on the front of the cylinder, I can see the drag marks on the face of the cylinder in the carbon dust. There is ZERO front to back movement in the cylinder when this starts to happen.
Is this a return to Ruger for repair item or can I handle it here?
Is this a return to Ruger for repair item or can I handle it here?
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I bought a pre Model 18, with the same problem couple years ago. All it takes is emery cloth, carefully rubbed on the barrel. Mask anything you want to protect, in case your hand slips. Go slow and steady with the emery cloth.
Blackening the barrel breech. With a Sharpie pen. Will help to evenly remove material. Use feeler gauges to make sure you have the proper clearance. From your description, don't seem that much material has to be removed.
Don't believe, the Model 18 I bought. Ever worked correctly. Don't see how it possibly, got through Smith QC, but it did. One of it's misguided former owners, even swapped out the extractor rod from another Smith. Which made the problem even worst, instead of fixing it.0 -
Call Ruger. The best customer service in the gun biz. tel:336-949-5200 0 -
I would use the emery paper on a flat backing like a file. Actually I would take a pass or 2 with the file first. +1 for wide Sharpie marking before every pass, so you can see where material is removing.
After you get proper clearance, make a forcing cone polisher. A piece of 3/8 dowel about 3/4". Drill a hole in the center that fits a 1" long screw that also fit a section of your cleaning rod.
Whittle the wood down to below bore diameter starting in the middle of the dowel and working towards the cleaning rod side - nice smooth taper. Glue a few strips of your emery paper or crocus cloth to the wood parallel to the rod up the length of the taper.
Inspect the forcing cone - strong light and at least a hand lens. Sharpie mark. Put your cleaning rod in the barrel and screw on the polisher. Pull the polisher into the barrel and rotate the cleaning rod. Turning clockwise should keep it attached.
After 5 or 10 turns. Remove the tool inspect. Repeat as required.
Take the pistol fully apart and clean and wash everything really well - you don't want that grit in it guts. Lube and assemble.
added Excellent point Truthful, start with a clean firearm.0 -
IF it wasn't a Ruger I would advise the above,, BUT call them and believe me you will get it fixed.] right! 0 -
A precautionary statement - metal once removed by abrasive sand or stone can never be put back...
I speak from experience.
Also while contacting ruger direct via phone is a promising path to choose - please be aware that ruger often remediates or repairs or replaces items under safety recall auspices - without asking permission in advance.
Mike0 -
you could possibly sand off a minuet amount of metal for clearance but I would contact Ruger and see how they would handle it first, many years back I had a problem with a super Blackhawk that I wanted to send back for the ejector falling off and when I contacted them they wanted me to pay shipping costs both ways insured, I silver soldered the escutcheon back in place myself and saved 50 bucks shipping costs. 0 -
Why not at least ask a smith what it would cost? They probably have a tool for the job that would ensure good concentricity. It would be easier to sell the piece because you wouldn't have to disclose that you worked on it yourself. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by mrmike08075
A precautionary statement - metal once removed by abrasive sand or stone can never be put back...
I speak from experience.
Also while contacting ruger direct via phone is a promising path to choose - please be aware that ruger often remediates or repairs or replaces items under safety recall auspices - without asking permission in advance.
Mike
I am going to send it back. It is a 6" solid under lug unfluted cylinder "TALO" edition. I have two GP 100's and a S&W 686. All of them wear the BURRIS fast-fire III on no drill mounts. They are awesome guns. This is a cylinder gap issue and me thinks it is best addressed by the factory. I just hope I do not have to pay freight back to them. It is only a couple of years old.0 -
Is the ejector rod screwed in tight? Is it backing out? 0 -
If it was a fitting problem, it would always be there, not show up after 30 - 50 rounds. I have had this happen with Ruger revolvers firing ammunition loaded with flake powders. Unburned powder flakes get trapped behind the extractor star so that it doesn't seat properly into the cylinder. Next time this happens, clean the front side of the star and the area where it seats and see if the problem doesn't go away. 0
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