Tell me about "Glass Bedding"
Break down the rules for me like in "Gremlins". Don't feed them after Midnight, don't get them wet, etc.
If there are bits that flaked off can I Dremel and pack in some epoxy of some sort?
If there are bits that flaked off can I Dremel and pack in some epoxy of some sort?
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Before you do it, go out and check how tight your groups are. and then I would free float your Barrel before it get glass bedding and do the same thing check your groups. And then I would glass bed it... Once you have decided which one you get your best groups, I would go back to that or just leave it glass bedded if that gives your best groups. Because sometimes glass bedding will actually make your groups worse. Same way with free-floating, sometimes it will make it worse. Every gun is different
Unless of course you're just going to Glass bed your action
When I glass bed I just use J-B weld... Whatever you do make sure you oil down your barrel and action real good for a release agent...
What firearm are you thinking about doing it to0 -
I forgot to mention the rifle is already bedded.
I will shoot the rifle after I clean the barrel and moving bits of the old gummy crap without field stripping the rifle. I so do want to clean her properly but I'll have to half ass it.
I was told bedding goes bad after a while and with areas of surface rust I'm wondering under the barrel and the bedding I might got something to worry about. Basically I'm questioning the "storage" of the rifle by the previous owner.0 -
In that case I would get rid of the glass bedding using a Dremel and redo it... Like I said, I use J-B weld. And J-B weld never goes bad 0 -
I also have had great results using JB weld. 0 -
But I would still before you do anything with it go out and shoot it off a bench rest and see how good of grouping are. Then I'd dig out the old glass bedding, rebed just the action but not the barrel and take it out and shoot it off of benchrest again to see how good you grouped. Then I would glass bed the Barrel last and take it out and see how good your groups are again. That way you know where you need to be with your bedding for your best groups...
But that's just me. I don't do anything indiscriminately to modify a firearm without making sure the modifications made it shoot better than before I modified it by doing it in steps and shooting groups in between each step... Because all guns are different. Even in the same make. model and caliber, one may like a fully bedded Barrel while another one may not. And conversely one may like a fully bedded Barrel, and the other one like a free floated Barrel0 -
quote:Originally posted by kidthatsirish
I also have had great results using JB weld.
On my worls class 10/22 yup. On my runner up worls class 2nd place 10/22 target build I got a new stock the day before a match - no time to let it cure. I used aluminum tape "temporarily". Been 5 years almost, still haven't bothered to re-do it.
If you go with JB Weld (or Devcon 1010 is popular too) a good release agent is essential. Kiwi shoe polish works great.0 -
You can research such on-line.
Try reviewing this.
How to use Brownells acraglas gel to bed a gun?
and
How to Glass Bed Your Rifle Action
Brownells also has some good info about how to check your rifles action afterwards to make sure it's bedded properly. (such as not warping etc as the screws are installed and removed.0 -
None of my business but when I was looking at having a M1A built a few years back I had a conversation with a couple of folks who were building match rifles, one being Fulton Armoury and decided to go another route. There are some very specific rules concerning the care and storage of these guns. There was at that time some good information available on those guns. I still have the necessary tools for servicing M1A rifles but I haven?t owned one in a few years. Still love a nice walnut stocked rifle. I am guessing if you called Springfield and got hold of the right person they would answer any questions you might have. If the gun has been stored properly and not abused you probably won?t have to do much to it. Good luck. 0 -
Yosh, first, bedding doesn't "go bad" unless it's in a wood stock that went for a swim.
Bedding itself isn't hard to do. The two main rules doing it, release agent = too much is better than too little, and bedding compound = too little is better than too much.
Bedding can improve accuracy, or make you wish you had never messed with it.
The "Where" on the rifle the bedding is going, depends a lot on the type of rifle.
What rifle are you talking about?0 -
M1A. But this is a M25 which should have come with a Kreiger barrel and is in a McMillian fiberglass stock so it shouldn?t need much done if it?s in good condition. 0 -
I had a rifle glass bedded 30 yrs ago by a local smith. I shot good for many years but in the last 5 yrs or so the groups started gettin wider. I took it to another smith. An older and more expensive smith and told him what was going on and asked him to adjust the trigger, inspect the bore and headspace and check the bedding. He asked me who did the bedding job. I told him and his immediate response was "He did it wrong." and "I fix his bedding jobs alot here." I guess my point is there's ways to do it wrong, even among those who should know how. 0 -
Hmmmm... So it doesn't go bad unless really treated badly or done wrongly. I thought if moisture got under the bedding or too wide a humidity swing (so not that fragile).
Maybe I got nothing to worry about until I field strip my Precious. I hope when I do large chunks won't be stuck on the steel parts.0 -
The worse case scenario would be finding your barrel and or action locked into its stock from a poor bedding job!!
Not only do you need a good release agent, but metal outward angles need to be made inward angles or you will find yourself locked in place.0 -
quote:Originally posted by yoshmyster
Hmmmm... So it doesn't go bad unless really treated badly or done wrongly. I thought if moisture got under the bedding or too wide a humidity swing (so not that fragile).
Maybe I got nothing to worry about until I field strip my Precious. I hope when I do large chunks won't be stuck on the steel parts.
It is easier to 'do' a bedding job incorrectly then it is to do correctly.
Surface prep, thoroughly and correctly mixing the epoxy, temperature, and selection of the correct epoxy are just a few of the 'things' that have to be 'flawless' in the execution of the job for it to be trouble free. Get any one of those wrong and the job will develop problems down the road.
There are many articles on glass bedding on the www. It's the execution of the job that makes it or breaks it.
In my experience, an emphasis on 'thoroughly' mixing the two part epoxy is vital.0 -
I glass bed all my rifles. I have used Accurglass and another bedding compound I forget the name of.
For THE Best bedding use Marine-Tex, but make sure you have done your part with a good release agent and check a few times there is no Mechanical lock going on between the Marine tex and your action.
I have bedded several M1A's and M1 Garands with Marine Tex and it holds up great. But again you have to do your part.0 -
yoshmyster,
Getting started on the right foot will go along way to getting satisfaction from a bedding job. This gunmaker is considered to the finest at competition bedding. An M1A is different but I'll look for something illustrated for you.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
quote:I was told bedding goes bad after a while and with areas of surface rust I'm wondering under the barrel and the bedding I might got something to worry about.
It depends on the type of bedding material used, how well it was mixed and what chemicals, if any, are able to affect the bedding compound. Some of the lesser types of bedding compounds can degrade over time and when exposed to some cleaning agents.
Most all of the top gunmakers use Marine-Tex for bedding. All others shrink by many percentage points more than M-T and are not as stable. You do not need stainless steel particles to have a strong bedding application.
notnow,
quote:I had a rifle glass bedded 30 yrs ago by a local smith. I shot good for many years
quote: I told him and his immediate response was "He did it wrong." and "I fix his bedding jobs alot here."
If it shot good for all those years, the first 'smith did it right. The second 'smith is showing you a discourtesy by demeaning the first 'smiths work.
Secondly, after 30 years, it was probably the barrel which needed attention not the bedding.[;)]
Best.0
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