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Stock finishes

kallie
Anyone ( I am sure there is) done a satin finish? I like the look of it, but want more protection than a couple of coats of oil.
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • 260
    i have applied several coats of tru-oil then cut it back with rottenstone
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  • Okie743
    You might consider this kit! Just follow the instructions!
    Birchwood Casey #23801, Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish Kit

    You might even review and search for instructions BEFORE you get the kit!
    I've found the kit in stores, like Academy for around $14.

    When you get the number of coats you want and a high GLOSS finish at first just use the stock sheen conditioner to bring it to the desired SATIN non gloss finish. Probably about same a rottonstone, but apply remove look and just keep applying and removing until you get the satan finish desired! (It removes the reflective gloss finish as it's rubbed on)

    When applying the tru oil I use 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaer to apply the coats. The 1000 grit produces lot';s better finish rather than using steel wool between coats then applyiong the finish! Let each coat dry before applying the next. Their is enough tru-oil in the kit for several coats. I do not finish a hunting gun stock with the tru-oil right before deer season because the stock cures and produces mineral spirits type odor for couple months!

    The kit has enough materials to do couple stocks normally!
    You can find several tips on you tube for using the tru-oil finishs.
    I completely strip a existing finish, use hot water, etc to get all the old oils out of a stock, let stock completely dry, then go with the kit. let the first seal coat cure before applying layered coats.
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  • kallie
    I have used Tru-Oil in the past with good results. Just wondering if there is an alternative out there.
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  • Okie743
    I keep the oil out of the checkering until the last coat!
    Just use a toothbrush and keep the tru-oil from building up in the checkering.
    Also do not sand the checkering. Use a toothbrush if using a paint stripper for cleaning and preparing the stock checkering before applying the tru-oil to the stock.
    I normally do not use the stain in the kit unless the stock is a whitish finish type wood with no grain.
    You can wet the wood and get a idea if you need to use the stain. If you have good grain walnut, do not use the kit stain!
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  • Okie743
    You say you have used tru-oil in the past, if you have not used this kit in last few years, you will be in for a pleasant surprise, the oil when it dries is not oily or gummie like the old style finishs, it dries rock hard, but can be easily refinished in a small area if nicked, etc. It's also resistant to the bore solvents, etc, but it's not bullet proof.
    You can also use a car wax on dried final for a nice look and additional protection, etc.

    Midway USA has a equal named liked Miles Gilbert, but I've not used it!
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  • charliemeyer007
    I like LinSpeed just rubbed in with finger dunks. Maybe rubbed off with like a tuffy pad. I don't use stain either, makes repairs more work.

    On my hunting gun wood stocks I use a thinned coat to seal the mag well, sling stud holes and the recoil pad/screws. I let those areas dry well and put a light coat of paste wax on the metal.
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  • oneoldsap
    Brownells has Pro-Custom Oil finish in a satin aerosol that works pretty well . I prefer to use MinWax Spar urethane , Gloss base coats ( because it cures harder ) with Salin top coats (2) . Mask off the checkering till the top coat goes on !
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  • nmyers
    I like tung oil. 0000 steel wool after each coat, including the final coat for a satin finish.

    Use all finishes in a well ventilated area. Wear nitrile gloves, as all contain solvents that will be absorbed through the skin & are mutagenic, carcinogenic, & toxic.

    Neal
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  • 62fuelie
    +1 one the MinWax spar urethane. I have used the same combination described by oneoldsap. I find that dings can be fixed with a little feathering with 220 or finer sandpaper and then a light spaying. Gives a good tough finish that is low-reflective and good looking.
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  • kallie
    Thanks for the input. The stock has no checkering so I don't have to worry about that. Seems to me that a finish with urethane would be more durable than just oil,Tru or tung. The finish I removed I was told was tung and was still gummy so I don't want to go that route. I really like the finish on the old super grade Winchester 70's safaris. Can that be done with the products that contain urethane?
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