concealed carry revolvers
I am considering 2 s&w revolvers for concealed carry guns. One is a model 60, 5 shot, 357 magnum, and the other is a model 66, 2.5 inch barrel, 357 magnum (6 shot). What are the pros/cons of these 2 choices?? Where can you go to get the "hammer" bobbed or smoothed down so as to prevent it from getting hooked up on your pants pocket when drawn from a pocket holster?? Please advise!!
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I have no experience with it, except it fits my hand and I like it. Try the Ruger LCR. 0 -
I like both! They make a 642 and other models that are already designed for discreet carry? Concealed hammers, etc. The 66 is bigger and has another round in the gun, that comes with added weight and size.
637, 642, 638, 442 all j frame model numbers that might foot the bill. If you already know all rhis, then please forgive me not answering your question directly.
If limited to your original choices, I think I would go with the 60.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Papalouie
I am considering 2 s&w revolvers for concealed carry guns. One is a model 60, 5 shot, 357 magnum, and the other is a model 66, 2.5 inch barrel, 357 magnum (6 shot). What are the pros/cons of these 2 choices?? Where can you go to get the "hammer" bobbed or smoothed down so as to prevent it from getting hooked up on your pants pocket when drawn from a pocket holster?? Please advise!!
In 357 it's called a 640, but they are a tad on the heavy side.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Mossbergboogie
quote:Originally posted by Papalouie
I am considering 2 s&w revolvers for concealed carry guns. One is a model 60, 5 shot, 357 magnum, and the other is a model 66, 2.5 inch barrel, 357 magnum (6 shot). What are the pros/cons of these 2 choices?? Where can you go to get the "hammer" bobbed or smoothed down so as to prevent it from getting hooked up on your pants pocket when drawn from a pocket holster?? Please advise!!
In 357 it's called a 640, but they are a tad on the heavy side.
They also made the 60 in 357.
As well as a fistfull of other models!!0 -
I like my 60 in 38 Special, I doubt I'd shoot it with 357's. A K frame 357 would be ok. Be aware that bobbing the hammer on a J frame can lead to missfires due to light primer strike. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by txlawdog
quote:Originally posted by Mossbergboogie
quote:Originally posted by Papalouie
I am considering 2 s&w revolvers for concealed carry guns. One is a model 60, 5 shot, 357 magnum, and the other is a model 66, 2.5 inch barrel, 357 magnum (6 shot). What are the pros/cons of these 2 choices?? Where can you go to get the "hammer" bobbed or smoothed down so as to prevent it from getting hooked up on your pants pocket when drawn from a pocket holster?? Please advise!!
In 357 it's called a 640, but they are a tad on the heavy side.
They also made the 60 in 357.
As well as a fistfull of other models!!
With a bobbed hammer?0 -
quote:Originally posted by Papalouie
I am considering 2 s&w revolvers for concealed carry guns. One is a model 60, 5 shot, 357 magnum, and the other is a model 66, 2.5 inch barrel, 357 magnum (6 shot). What are the pros/cons of these 2 choices?? Where can you go to get the "hammer" bobbed or smoothed down so as to prevent it from getting hooked up on your pants pocket when drawn from a pocket holster?? Please advise!!
Wow.
You really ought to actually see the guns in question; because its obvious based on your question that you haven't.
The model 66 is a K-frame revolver, its quite a bit bigger and heavier than the J-frame model 60. The K-frame is a "combat" type gun, the J-frame is a "concealment" gun. Model 66 has adjustable sights that are easier to see,; the model 60 has fixed "gutter" sights that won't snag. The idea being that at the 10 feet or less you're likely to need the concealed carry gun, sights don't matter.
Pros/cons?
Model 60 is much smaller and easier to conceal, more snag-resistant, but it offers lower capacity, higher recoil, and is going to be harder to hit with. You could get away with carrying this in a pocket. Recoil with .357 rounds is "brisk". Large smooth rubber grips help reduce recoil, but reduce concealability, and can stick to clothes on the draw.
Model 66 is heavier (harder to carry, but less recoil), harder to conceal, better sights are a little easier to aim precisely, but subject to snagging. You're simply not going to be able to carry this gun in normal-sized pants pockets. Its too big, though it does offer you one more shot if you carry it on a belt holster.
Any competent gunsmith can bob the hammer of either gun for you to reduce the chance of snagging for a modest fee. Note that "no hammer" and "best of both worlds" shrouded hammer versions of the J-frame are available from the factory.
Personally, I *LIKE* the hammer on my 637 (aluminum alloy .38 special version of the model 60) because the snagging helps prevent the gun from falling out of my pocket. To prevent snagging, simply place your thumb over the hammer during the draw. Very simple, and it becomes automatic with practice.
Bobbing the hammer does NOT affect reliability of the gun. (I actually own a bobbed hammer model 60 and its run 100%). You're shaving off maybe 10% of the mass of the hammer, yes, but the lesser mass means the hammer also falls faster, giving similar impact energy, but actually decreasing lock time (that's a good thing).
What reduces reliability is the action job with lighter springs that lots of people get done at the same time they have the hammer bobbed.0 -
Louie, all I can say is 99% of those buying snubby magnums shoot the magnums a few times, then never shoot them with magnums again. As an owner/carrier/shooter of a 2.5 in M-19, 3" M-13, 2" M-15 Dan Wesson, and several past and present 2" .38's, I liken firing a full-house magnum round in a short-barrel revolver as about as much fun as having a hammer handle whacked across your palm. The magnum does have more power in a short-barrel revolver than any .38 will have in a similar gun, but if it's so unpleasant to shoot you miss all that extra power is now flying somewhere unintended.
Personally, I'd recommend a 642/442 style .38 revolver if one wants a S&W revolver for carry. Lightweight so it won't become a drag, snag-free as the hammer is concealed within the frame, decent prices (good M-19 or M-66 2.5" guns are pricy) and it has enough oomph to do what you need it to when the chips are down.
Before you buy anything, try to go to a local range and try several out. Buying one based on internet opinions, gun mag stories, or your neighbors' best friends' brother who is a cop can lead to a waste of cash if you find out you can't stand it. [:)]0 -
What Riomouse911 said is right on the money.
I had experience shooting 2 1/2 inch model 66 revolvers in my law enforcement career. The muzzle flash at night from shooting .357 magnum cartridges in the short barreled revolver is unbelievable. It will literally blind you for a few seconds. This may sound crazy but I learned to close my eyes just before the pistol fired to avoid the temporary night blindness. A model 60 in .38 special is a good choice. I don't think the extra round from a K frame would be worth the extra bulk and weight. If you must have a 6th shot you might get a Colt detective special, cobra, or agent. All are top quality and still readily available on the used market.0 -
I agree with both Eric and Herschel, in a 2" barrel a 357 doesn't give you any more knock down than a 38 special. The recoil and muzzle flash are not good. You'll be alot happier with a 38.
W.D.0 -
Don't get a hammer revolver bobbed! Cutting a chunk off the hammer drastically changes its weight and balance point and causes light strikes. You are just begging for misfires. You think you can compensate by using a heavier mainspring, but now you have a revolver with a TERRIBLE trigger pull. Catch-22.[;)] Just start from scratch and buy a hammerless or, better yet, a shrouded hammer revolver. They were built and balanced at the factory to work properly. Personally, I carry a shrouded .38 five shot J frame. I chose shrouded over hammerless JUST IN CASE I want to shoot a round single action. There is just enough hammer exposed that I can still thumb the hammer back. But, for all practical situations, it is functionally hammerless and does not snag when drawn. [:D] 0 -
Well, I can say first hand that I have bobbed many hammers on several different kinds of revolvers. This definitely will affect function, but MAYBE not on all revolvers. Bobbing is ok to do if you do other things to make up for it. Also, I have carried both models you speak of including others such as the 940, 37, 38, 49, 442 and 642. I personally like the weight of the 442 and still carry one every day both off and on duty. Every day. The stainless models were heavy and that weighs on you EVERY DAY for pocket carry. I also prefer the 442 (shrouded hammer, nothing exposed) in case I have to shoot through my coat pocket or such. It will not snag as there is nothing to snag. Stay away from semi-automatics for pocket carry as they tend to get lint and pocket debris in them causing jams at critical moments. They will not function in a pocket either. Shoot some and carry some around for a few weeks before you decide. Borrow a friends if you can. Automatics tend to be finicky where revolvers are not, especially in ammo critical conditions.
Leland0
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