22 pistol
Just wanted to thank you gentlemen for your opinions and advice.
It would seem that the Ruger and Buck Mark lead the way. I happen to like the Browning a bit better, but both guns are excellent.
Thank you all again.
It would seem that the Ruger and Buck Mark lead the way. I happen to like the Browning a bit better, but both guns are excellent.
Thank you all again.
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Hi all, This is my first post. I recently traded for a american arms P96 semi-auto pistol. It looks just like a P38 and is in very good condition and shoots like a charm. Does anyone know of this gun and the value? I traded a sporterized 1903 springfield rifle for it. All help appreciated. Thanks Blake 0 -
It's I.J. Iver Johnson. 0 -
Should be .22 LR, but those went thru several different models, and yours sounds like the earliest of them. Yes, there were revolvers that you pulled the cylinder pin, removed cylinder, used pin to poke out empties. PICTURES WOULD HELP A LOT, Y'KNOW! Later models of the Supershot Sealed 8 were top break.
Square thing behind trigger is part of the trigger/sear. It operates on its own- do not fiddle with.0 -
They were made over a considerable time frame. From the 1930's to the 1950's with a break during W W II.
One of our late members, ( Bill Goforth ), was very knowledgeable and wrote a book about Iver Johnson firearms. Perhaps one of our current members who has Bill's book, could give you more information.
Your description of the "Square Buttons", seems to be parts of the cylinder pin release and sear mechanism. As shown in this photo off the net.
Iver Johnson's were decent quality guns. Any modern standard velocity .22 ammo should safely function. If you have any doubts about the revolvers condition? Take it to a competent gunsmith for inspection, function test and test firing.
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Hey thanks everyone for your help. rufe-snow that picture is exactly of the one I have, and looks to be in the same condition. There are two buttons one as you can see in front of the cylinder to remove the cylinder pin, but the one I was talking about is the one in your photo of the one inside the trigger guard just behind the trigger. Was thinking some kind of safety cause it moves when you pull the hammer back. But I want to thank you all for your help. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by chiefmoose
Hey thanks everyone for your help. rufe-snow that picture is exactly of the one I have, and looks to be in the same condition. There are two buttons one as you can see in front of the cylinder to remove the cylinder pin, but the one I was talking about is the one in your photo of the one inside the trigger guard just behind the trigger. Was thinking some kind of safety cause it moves when you pull the hammer back. But I want to thank you all for your help.
I believe the part you're referring to is the sear. At the end of the triggers cycle when it's as far back as it can go. It contacts the sear which in turn releases the hammer from it's full cock position.0 -
Ok thanks rufe-snow. It needs a little work, seems the hammer is hanging up some when you cock it. But thanks for all your help. 0 -
If you remove the grip there will be a serial number with letter prefix on left side of grip strap that will identify when made. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by chiefmoose
Ok thanks rufe-snow. It needs a little work, seems the hammer is hanging up some when you cock it. But thanks for all your help.
That may be caused by dried oil and crud. Have a competent gunsmith tear it down for a thorough tune up. (detailed cleaning)0
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