double action fail on revolver
Armscor insists the only remedy is to ship the gun to them. It's not that expensive a gun. Maybe a good one for me to learn about internals of a revolver. [silver lining to the cloud?]
I got a Rock Island .38 Special that tries to work double action and at first it was working on one chamber only but now it doesn't at all.
As you pull the trigger the hammer starts back and then stops.
Unless the company would cover shipping both ways it's not worth sending back to them, any suggestions or do I have an expensive paperweight?
quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
Worked on a High Standard Sentinel recently, with the same problem. The "bolt" that locks the cylinder. Is located in the bottom of the frame. It worked OK in single action mode, but not in double action.
Had to take it apart to get at the "bolt". All's that was required, was a lighter bolt actuator spring. And it worked.
The internals of your RI. Are probably completely different, than the Sentinel. But my WAG is that in DA mode, the trigger linkage that depresses the bolt. Sufficiently to disengage it from the cylinder is not working correctly. Your are going to have to take it apart. To see whats going on, with the trigger/bolt interface. Might be as simple, as the spring fix for my Sentinel. Or something major, like replacement parts?
That seems to be what is happening. When I started looking at how to take it apart I see the grip screw is buggered up, but the others look ok.
quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
I think it's a clone of a S&W. Take it apart and see what went wrong. Not all that hard to remove the side plate and look. Could be anything from a broken part to something got inside the guts.
It looks more like a Colt, 6 shots and pull the cylinder release rather than push.
Thanks for all the replies.
I got a Rock Island .38 Special that tries to work double action and at first it was working on one chamber only but now it doesn't at all.
As you pull the trigger the hammer starts back and then stops.
Unless the company would cover shipping both ways it's not worth sending back to them, any suggestions or do I have an expensive paperweight?
quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
Worked on a High Standard Sentinel recently, with the same problem. The "bolt" that locks the cylinder. Is located in the bottom of the frame. It worked OK in single action mode, but not in double action.
Had to take it apart to get at the "bolt". All's that was required, was a lighter bolt actuator spring. And it worked.
The internals of your RI. Are probably completely different, than the Sentinel. But my WAG is that in DA mode, the trigger linkage that depresses the bolt. Sufficiently to disengage it from the cylinder is not working correctly. Your are going to have to take it apart. To see whats going on, with the trigger/bolt interface. Might be as simple, as the spring fix for my Sentinel. Or something major, like replacement parts?
That seems to be what is happening. When I started looking at how to take it apart I see the grip screw is buggered up, but the others look ok.
quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
I think it's a clone of a S&W. Take it apart and see what went wrong. Not all that hard to remove the side plate and look. Could be anything from a broken part to something got inside the guts.
It looks more like a Colt, 6 shots and pull the cylinder release rather than push.
Thanks for all the replies.
0
-
I think it's a clone of a S&W. Take it apart and see what went wrong. Not all that hard to remove the side plate and look. Could be anything from a broken part to something got inside the guts.
Maybe one of these
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/armscor/revolvers-armscor
added I have used WD-40 on guns for 50 years and never had any issues. It is not a lubricant. I think it can soak into ammo and kill it.0 -
Worked on a High Standard Sentinel recently, with the same problem. The "bolt" that locks the cylinder. Is located in the bottom of the frame. It worked OK in single action mode, but not in double action.
Had to take it apart to get at the "bolt". All's that was required, was a lighter bolt actuator spring. And it worked.
The internals of your RI. Are probably completely different, than the Sentinel. But my WAG is that in DA mode, the trigger linkage that depresses the bolt. Sufficiently to disengage it from the cylinder is not working correctly. Your are going to have to take it apart. To see whats going on, with the trigger/bolt interface. Might be as simple, as the spring fix for my Sentinel. Or something major, like replacement parts?0 -
I say it's got crap in the mech. be it metal shavings or crap in general. Hell the employees may have dry fired it to an early death. Kind a wonder how hard or soft the steel they use?
Like it's been mentioned pop the side plate and have a looksee.
Edit. So the screw looks buggered? I reckon someone already beat you to it. Unless it came out of the factory broken. I reckon they'll just blame you for buggering it up.
Taking the grips off and the side plate off and just look. If you don't see what's wrong with it button her up and send it back or a gun local smith.
Now I'm thinking the hand/pawl that pushes on the spinny thing.0 -
I would start with a cleaner like wd40 and spray all the internals good to clean out anything, then an inspection 0 -
More of a Colt with some S&W and some HR thrown in, but it is easy to take apart. Before you do, make sure the ejector rod is tight, they like to come loose and give you fits. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25KeFV0Wkkc0 -
quote:Originally posted by pip5255
I would start with a cleaner like wd40 and spray all the internals good to clean out anything, then an inspection
That's probably the worst thing that you could use... Not trying to be mean, but WD40 has made more malfunctions than it has ever helped. [:)]
Use a good gun cleaning solvent, with some air and a brush to get everything in the condition that you want it in. Then go ahead and lube the points of contact that you you want with some good lube, and then maybe a slight bit of Remoil, or something similar on the rest of the stuff. Lube can be your friend or enemy, depending on what, and how you use it. WD40 has a history of drying up, and gumming up the insides of many-o-guns actions...0 -
quote:Originally posted by toad67
quote:Originally posted by pip5255
I would start with a cleaner like wd40 and spray all the internals good to clean out anything, then an inspection
That's probably the worst thing that you could use... Not trying to be mean, but WD40 has made more malfunctions than it has ever helped. [:)]
Use a good gun cleaning solvent, with some air and a brush to get everything in the condition that you want it in. Then go ahead and lube the points of contact that you you want with some good lube, and then maybe a slight bit of Remoil, or something similar on the rest of the stuff. Lube can be your friend or enemy, depending on what, and how you use it. WD40 has a history of drying up, and gumming up the insides of many-o-guns actions...
That would be a matter of opinion, I have been using it forever with absolutely no problems and That is my opinion...?????..0 -
quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
I think it's a clone of a S&W. Take it apart and see what went wrong. Not all that hard to remove the side plate and look. Could be anything from a broken part to something got inside the guts.
Maybe one of these
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/armscor/revolvers-armscor
added I have used WD-40 on guns for 50 years and never had any issues. It is not a lubricant. I think it can soak into ammo and kill it.
Thanks Charlie I still have my first gun I used wd-40 on and going on 52 years soon with no issues and I still use machine oil for lube, I have found some of the so called gun oils like remoil actually gum when they dry without being removed.0 -
OK :
In One word : GUNSMITH !!!!
Its more of a Colt type design more than any other , matter of fact Colt ( and clones ) Grips fit this item , we used to sell these and sold a bunch of Pach. grips with them :
Maybe a good cleaning ( in a parts washer? w-grips OFF ) and then lube with a good Gun Oil ??? my do the trick ! worth a try : If NOT : send it to me & I will help You solve this ???
Thanks !!!0 -
Could easily be a new thread, but I have to comment on at least one aspect of the WD-40 question. Not just an opinion, but darn near a documented observations.
Years ago I took a dozen or so soft steel nails, cleaned them with brake cleaner and then left them outside and exposed to rain and humidity as follows:
One nail left unprotected, one wipe down with WD-40, and others treated with a variety of popular "gun oils"; RemOil, Corrosion X, BrakeFree CLP, etc. WD-40 was only marginally better than nothing and far worse than any of the others at preventing rust. (And as has already been pointed out, it isn't a lubricant.)
To each his own, said the old lady as she kissed the cow. Personally I no longer waste my money on the stuff.0 -
I have been using WD 40 as a solvent for many years. Works fine for that purpose.
As far as what WD 40, actually is. I was told years ago, that it's mostly Kerosene. With additives to mask the Kerosene smell. Who knows, if that is the skinny?0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
11 comments