Springfield 1903
I might have an opportunity to purchace one of these rifles from a co worker. He doesn't know how much he wants for it. What would be a fair price for the both of us. I don't want to rip him off, but I also don't want to pay a lot.I have seen other rifles in his collection and they are all in excellent shape, so I know that this one will also be in excellent shape. Thanks for your thoughts.
0
-
I HAVE A SPRINGFIELD 1903 #12375x ((\)) AND IT ALSO HAS RA A BOMB AND 2-43 CAN ANYONE TELL ME MORE ABOUT IT ?
What is the ((\)) after the serial number ?0 -
1930 production per Joe Poyer book. Cannot find AO inspector stamp. Sounds like a nice, clean rifle. 0 -
The year of manufacture for serial number 1353508 is 1930.
All rifles recalled and rechambered for .30 caliber in 1906.
Improved heat treatment started at 800,000.
Introduction of nickel steel started at 1275767.
Model 1903A1 rifles were made after 1929 with a full pistol grip type C stock, but were otherwise the same as earlier Model 1903 Rifles and marked Model 1903.0 -
I don't recall seeing a USGI replacement stock that did not have the manufacturer's code stamped in the magazine cutoff slot. And, an arsenal rebuilt rifle would normally be stamped with a proof P on the pistol grip, with an arsenal stamp elsewhere on the stock.
Looking "dry" is not a problem; wood doesn't need to be oiled to preserve it. However, prolonged storage in a place with zero humidity will eventually destroy any wood.
Parkerizing is a brand name for the phosphate process; it can be done in a range of colors, but I have never seen it blue. If every metal part is the same color, I would assume it has been commercially refinished.
If you haven't checked the head space, it would be a good idea to have a gunsmith do so.
Neal
EDIT: BLO or tung oil should work fine. But, rub the wood with 0000 steel wool between coats, & after the final coat. In the US military, only drill rifles have a high gloss finish.
[img][/img]
0 -
^
I didn't think to look at the cutoff, will check it for mark. It's definitely not a commercial refinish - by "blue" I meant that it's a blue/black phosphate finish rather than the green I've seen.
What's best for treating the stock? It's a great chunk of walnut with a touch of dark striping.0 -
quote:Originally posted by dfletcher
^
I didn't think to look at the cutoff, will check it for mark. It's definitely not a commercial refinish - by "blue" I meant that it's a blue/black phosphate finish rather than the green I've seen.
What's best for treating the stock? It's a great chunk of walnut with a touch of dark striping.
Boiled linseed oil or tung oil or flax seed oil has always been a standard choice for walnut stocks. I prefer the look of boiled linseed or tung myself with boiled linseed oil my favorite.0 -
^
I thought BLO also, but for some reason am recalling reading to not use it? Maybe I'm misremembering, so to speak.0 -
I really like LinSpeed which is a more refined grade of linseed oil.
https://www.lin-speed.com/linspeed-instructions/
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/wood-finishes/gunstock-oil-prod8004.aspx0 -
my go to for all kinds of items is a product by the name of ballistol
it can be used on all metals' Leather 'rubber'all woods'safe on skin
no carcinogens IT is great stuff will make gun stocks look great0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
9 comments