Single Action Revolver Bolt Timing
Just bought a Cimarron single action. I know folks often complain about "drag lines" on revolvers, this one has the opposite circumstance in that the bolt drops into the cylinder notch almost directly, just as the hammer hits fully cocked. Whether this is a problem or "perfect timing" I'd prefer the bolt drop as its leading edge approaches the cylinder bolt cut - just a tad ahead, well into the scalloped cut leading to the bolt cut.
Doing a bit of research, knowing my (limits) and way around 1911s, Colts and Smiths with hand tools only, I presume relieving the rear tip leg of the cylinder bolt that rides over the cam on the hammer is the way to go? The cam should be left alone, the center of the bolt leg should be left alone, otherwise the hand will engage the cylinder ratchet before the bolt starts to drop - slight dressing down of the tip of that leg will cause the bolt to drop off the cam just a bit sooner, and further ahead of the cylinder bolt cut?
Anything I need to be especially wary of, tips on doing it well?
Doing a bit of research, knowing my (limits) and way around 1911s, Colts and Smiths with hand tools only, I presume relieving the rear tip leg of the cylinder bolt that rides over the cam on the hammer is the way to go? The cam should be left alone, the center of the bolt leg should be left alone, otherwise the hand will engage the cylinder ratchet before the bolt starts to drop - slight dressing down of the tip of that leg will cause the bolt to drop off the cam just a bit sooner, and further ahead of the cylinder bolt cut?
Anything I need to be especially wary of, tips on doing it well?
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When you apply slight pressure on the cylinder as you cock the hammer your revolver might not lock up properly.
You talking about
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DR9yK17d4IU around 13 minuets (index issue).0 -
quote:Originally posted by yoshmyster
When you apply slight pressure on the cylinder as you cock the hammer your revolver might not lock up properly.
You talking abouthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DR9yK17d4IU around 13 minuets (index issue).
and remember you can't put back what you take off, it may be like that now to compensate for wear.0 -
Understood on the above, and lock up is full when hammer is cocked, no "lazy hand". Having the cylinder bolt drop nearly right into the cut I see the beginnings of peening on the edge of the cut being struck. I'd want the cylinder bolt to drop fully before its leading edge isinto that cut or hitting the edge. 0 -
I think I would lightly stone the working surfaces first before I took a file to them. Agree 'fitting' at the factory isn't what it use to be. Same could be said about quality control for the steel and heat treatment.
I think it will wear in before 500 rounds.0
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