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Schmidt Rubin

agostino
For reasons best known to others, in the 1950s some Schmidt Rubins were converted from 7.55X55 to either .308 or .30-30. This required that the barrel be set back to shorten the headspace since the 7.5X55 is a longer round. I acquired a .30-30 with a lot of guns I purchased. Because the firing pin barely marks the primer, I believe headspace is my problem. Do I need to move the barrel, or is there another way to adjust headspace on a Schmidt Rubin 1911?
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6 comments

Date Votes
  • agostino
    I'll probably be acquiring a K-31 shortly. Don't know what condition it will be in (it's probably gonna be a Christmas present from the family) so my question is this: what should I expect? How accurate are they "out of the box" so to speak? Any inside knowledge on any aspect of shooting/cleaning/maintenance? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    "Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you."
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  • rufe-snow
    The Model 1889's, were the ones converted to 30-30. I never had a hands on with one. But the first thing I would do, would be to check the extractor hook. The original Swiss ammo was rimless. Although the rim diameter of the 30-30 ammo, is just slightly larger than the Swiss ammo. If the rim of the 30-30 ammo is binding on the extractor hook? It might be causing your problem?
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  • agostino
    Rufe: Wouldn't what you described keep the bolt from closing completely and prevent firing at all? It appears to fire, but no "bang."
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  • charliemeyer007
    I think it needs processional help, but likely not worth the cost.

    So take a sized/new case and super glue it to a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil, trim around the rim. See if it will chamber easily. Add a second layer, check again. If it takes 2 or more you surely could have a head space issue.

    Perhaps the firing pin is worn down or someone ground it down from a cone point to a correct ball point. Maybe there is crude inside the bolt preventing the firing pin from fully going forward. Weak spring - does it snap loud so click weakly. You might grind back the 'stop' on the pin a little to allow for more forward travel.

    Again you really need to have hands on help to arrive at the correct solution.
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  • nononsense
    agostino,

    "The Gew 1889 was shortened; the 7.5 x 53 chamber was reamed out and an insert was brazed in (sort of like the Chilean long rifle conversions to 7.62) and chambered for 30-30. The bolt face, extractor and magazine lips were tweaked for use with the 30-30. They were inexpensive, "odd", and usually not well cared for by their owners. If you find one that has not been abused, they usually will shoot very well with cast bullets."

    "ads from the Sept 60 American Rifleman featured sporterized Norwegian M12 Krags, rebarreled (rebored?) to 308 Win were $64.95. Swiss 89, as issued $13.95. Russian M91 (pic looks like M91-30) as issued $14.95. Sporterized P-14's at $26.95 or barreled actions $19.50. The sporterized Swiss M89 (?) in 30-30 was $49.95. Swede M94 carbines, as issued $29.95. Those were in the Globe ad. Seaport had sporterized M1903 Springfields (high numbered) for $39.95. S&W M1917 revolvers were $29.95. Webley Mk VI revolvers (says 45 cal, not sure if they were converted or not) $14.95. Enfield 380 revolvers with the barrels cut to about 2" or so $16.95. M98 Mausers-German, Yugoslavian, or Czech $29.95. 200 rnds of Western 9mm ammo $12.95, 100 rounds of 8mm Mauser $7.50. Ye Old Western Hunter had Garands for $79.95, Spanish Tigre M92 copies in 44-40 for $39.95, Winchester M95 barreled actions in 7.62MM Russian for $29.95.

    These were RETAIL prices. A dealer could usually get about 30% off, sometimes more if you bought multiples of a given gun. It was a different world then."

    Best.
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  • rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by agostino
    Rufe: Wouldn't what you described keep the bolt from closing completely and prevent firing at all? It appears to fire, but no "bang."


    Rimmed cartridges such as the 30-30. Headspace on the breech face of the barrel. If the rear face of the extractor is just 005., to long. It would prevent the rim of the cartridge having proper contact with the barrel. Try removing the extractor from the bolt. See if that affects the ignition of the primers.
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