Electric Usage Gurus -
If my Heat pump is not operating efficiently, (running quite a bit without generating much heat.) And I run a couple oil filled electric radiator heaters @ 750w each, and a quartz infrared electric heater at 1500w, in order to keep my (inefficient) Heat pump from running, am I saving anything on my electric bill or running it higher.
I've always juggled several smaller heaters in each room to offset the running of my heat pump.
I need to get my heat pumps heating element looked at, and thanks to Marc1301's phone # and link, I may be able to find a new heating element for my heat pump.
Just curious. Any knowledgeable insight appreciated.
I've always juggled several smaller heaters in each room to offset the running of my heat pump.
I need to get my heat pumps heating element looked at, and thanks to Marc1301's phone # and link, I may be able to find a new heating element for my heat pump.
Just curious. Any knowledgeable insight appreciated.
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To answer your question you would have to know your heat pump kilowatt usage. 0 -
For each 1500 watts of electric heat you use it generates about 5,100 BTU. I would make sure your filter is CLEAN, also the A-coil might be plugged up reducing efficiency by a large margin. A heat pump is only good down to the low thirties is temp. Colder than that it will require the back up electric heater elements usually about 15KW. That makes your meter spin like a 78 RPM record.
Electric heat is the most costly way to heat, clean but expensive. It is less effective the colder it gets. If you are in a area exposed to the 20's and lower very often get a Propane heater or several to augment the electric.0 -
there are so many variables it would be almost impossible to calculate. outside temp, cloudy days, sunny days, how many times you open the door, etc. you could figure max kw by knowing the current draw of your heat pump while working and adding up current draw of all yyour heaters at max usage. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by bpost
For each 1500 watts of electric heat you use it generates about 5,100 BTU. I would make sure your filter is CLEAN, also the A-coil might be plugged up reducing efficiency by a large margin. A heat pump is only good down to the low thirties is temp. Colder than that it will require the back up electric heater elements usually about 15KW. That makes your meter spin like a 78 RPM record.
Electric heat is the most costly way to heat, clean but expensive. It is less effective the colder it gets. If you are in a area exposed to the 20's and lower very often get a Propane heater or several to augment the electric.
Have a large woodstove that gets cranked when it gets cold. (Going now.) Stand alone Kerosene heater, for when it drops in to the low teens/single digits. Yes I've read, and my experience agrees with the fact that heat pumps are pathetic when the temperature gets in the teens or lower.
I do not know how much wattage my heat pump draws.
Pretty sure all my smaller electric heaters in various rooms do not even come close to the 15kw stated for my heat pump on the "E" heat setting.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Alpine
To answer your question you would have to know your heat pump kilowatt usage.
Yes. Electric heater units are 100% efficient. So really, all you need to do is compare the electric draw on your heat pump with and without electric heater usage.0 -
Who ever named them HEAT pumps-LIED! 0 -
We are running a 4.5 ton geothermal unit in our 2200 sq ft house. All electric out here in the boonies. On a really hot (100+ degree) day, the unit pulls 15 amps, on a really cold day (15+/- degree) it pulls the same. If it needs more heat, it uses the 60 gallon water heater that uses 1 4500 watt element. I guess it works OK, we have never run out of hot water. 0 -
"Heat pumps are limited heat recovery devices due to refrigerant choices available. Below 35 degF outdoor doesn't work any more. So you have to use "emergency" heating source.'........this varies greatly depending on the heat pump, there are some that work well down to below zero f. I have a bryant (carrier) that provides all the heat for a 1800 s.f. house down to about 25 deg., then the gas furnace kicks in. unless you can get elec. for less than $.05/ kwh elec. is way more expensive. 0 -
Heat pump is more efficient at converting electricity to heat compared to straight resistance heating. As mentioned HP can only remove heat from air efficiently if temps are above freezing.
Natural Gas if you have it would be less expensive than electric heat too.
Zoning is a great way to prevent having to heat the entire house to a toasty temp when you are not using it.
We heat the bedrooms and bathroom with supplemental heat and keep the rest of the house reasonable.0 -
Our Heat Pump works down to around 18 degree before heat strips come on. Very seldom that cold in SC. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by mogley98
Heat pump is more efficient at converting electricity to heat compared to straight resistance heating. As mentioned HP can only remove heat from air efficiently if temps are above freezing.
Natural Gas if you have it would be less expensive than electric heat too.
Zoning is a great way to prevent having to heat the entire house to a toasty temp when you are not using it.
We heat the bedrooms and bathroom with supplemental heat and keep the rest of the house reasonable.
Thank you Sir. I just changed my mode to the "E" heat setting. Hoping it will help. I use a large woodstove in the living room, plus an oil filled radiator unit 1500w/750w, plus the new Quartz electric unit.
Another oil filled radiator unit in the kitchen, a tower oscillating unt in the bathroom, and a tornado type unit in the bedroom.
I try to "Zone" as much as possible.
Problem is my house design is an extremely steep pitched A-frame. While sitting on the couch in the living room, you can look up three stories, open beams/knotty pine ceiling very pretty and spacious. Difficult to heat.
I should probably move to one of my three upstairs bedrooms in the winter time, in order to take advantage of the "heat rises," factor.0 -
When I had an Apartment in Calif, we had 3 nurses who had the place below us. We used no heat in the winter often we would have all the windows open trying to cool the place down. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by 84Bravo1
quote:Originally posted by mogley98
Heat pump is more efficient at converting electricity to heat compared to straight resistance heating. As mentioned HP can only remove heat from air efficiently if temps are above freezing.
Natural Gas if you have it would be less expensive than electric heat too.
Zoning is a great way to prevent having to heat the entire house to a toasty temp when you are not using it.
We heat the bedrooms and bathroom with supplemental heat and keep the rest of the house reasonable.
Thank you Sir. I just changed my mode to the "E" heat setting. Hoping it will help. I use a large woodstove in the living room, plus an oil filled radiator unit 1500w/750w, plus the new Quartz electric unit.
Another oil filled radiator unit in the kitchen, a tower oscillating unt in the bathroom, and a tornado type unit in the bedroom.
I try to "Zone" as much as possible.
Problem is my house design is an extremely steep pitched A-frame. While sitting on the couch in the living room, you can look up three stories, open beams/knotty pine ceiling very pretty and spacious. Difficult to heat.
I should probably move to one of my three upstairs bedrooms in the winter time, in order to take advantage of the "heat rises," factor.
Your light bill will go to the sky just running the E heat. Only the heat strips run in that mode. No heat pump.
https://www.hannabery.com/emergency-heat-setting-when-to-use-is-it-more-expensive-red-light-on.shtml0 -
Now here is a little trick, maybe the heat pump valve is stuck..and they do stick sometimes... Turn on the unit and run the heat pump in heat. After a few minutes put it in the off mode on Thermostat. Let it shut off for 5 mins. Now turn on the air conditioning and turn down the temp on the thermostat. The outside unit will come on and most likely make a hiss sound and throw up a cloud of vapor. Let it run for a few mins. and put it back in the off position on the thermostat. Let it sit idle for 5 mins and turn on the heat pump to the desired temperature in the heat mode on the thermostat. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
Now here is a little trick, maybe the heat pump valve is stuck..and they do stick sometimes... Turn on the unit and run the heat pump in heat. After a few minutes put it in the off mode on Thermostat. Let it shut off for 5 mins. Now turn on the air conditioning and turn down the temp on the thermostat. The outside unit will come on and most likely make a hiss sound and throw up a cloud of vapor. Let it run for a few mins. and put it back in the off position on the thermostat. Let it sit idle for 5 mins and turn on the heat pump to the desired temperature in the heat mode on the thermostat.
Will give it a try, Thank you.
Although heat pump set to E setting, my desire is to keep it coming on very infrequently, due to the various othervheating units employed.0
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