any thoughts on bullet puller?????
been gone a while due to health issues, while in hospital, between nurse and fellow patient I got a deal on some reloading gear with the condition I crimp some of his shells. Long story short I got 9 boxes of reloads that chamber tight in his 270, it is a remington 700 bolt gun but still shells are tight. I got most of them to chamber and cycle without really having to pry/heave on the bolt, they are still a little tight but chamber easy enough to use.
My question is I have about 50 that are so tight I was afraid to push the bolt down that hard and am going to have to pull the bullets and resize them with a full length sizer, I have done this with a few of his empty brass and the cycle fine. I would like to reuse the bullets so plyers are out as I tried a few and scratched them up and don't want to really reload them. I don't own this calibre personally so I won't be using the bullet puller again if I get a puller that is used in my rockchucker so are these plastic hammer things worth buying again only gonna pull about 50, rifle shells??????
I know this should be in reloading forum but the traffic is light over there and I was hoping for reliable answer in next few days before buying puller, got few weeks to get him his shells back, but I don't feel right keeping his rifle any longer than needed.
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The plastic hammer things will break if you whack them too hard. BTDT. The question is, has the shoulder been set back?. Are the bullets seated too far out? Does the rifle have a tight chamber? I once had a Ruger 77 that I had to full length size every case.
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Jim I reset and crimped the bullets for length, I think it may have a slightly tight chamber but I got 2 boxes bigger than shoe boxes full of used brass, I full length sized a few of these and tried them in the rifle they were tight but closed easy enough that it makes me think who ever loaded them for him only neck sized them. I got maybe 150 of them to chamber easy enough to use just by readjusting the bullet length and crimp. I don't own any spare bullets to reload the 50 or so that are to tight to chamber without a lot of effort, so I was just going to pull them and full length size the brass and reload them for him. Hate to buy a box of bullets and only use half, fixing these reloads of his was part of the deal on getting 3-4 boxes of reloading supplies, he bought a new rockchucker kit with scale and everything that comes with it, then decided he just didn't trust himself to reload. I got a good deal on the stuff just not a great deal, so any cost on the resizing of his ammo comes out of my pocket, hence the want/need to save the bullets without marring, I will still be out the powder but am willing to eat that cost myself, just hate to spend big money on bullet puller, I will probubly never use again unless I have to.......
sort of just a favor for new friend that got out of hand.
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Two options as I see it:
ream out the tight chamber
buy your own .270 to justify a puller (LF has a great one running, currently :) )
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They could be tight for a number of reasons. First would be they were neck sized for a particular rifle, second would be the necks are to thick. Also make sure the case length does not exceed max.
I have or have used every type of puller imaginable and would recommend the GripNPull or the Davidson.
These type are the fastest and normally will not ruin the bullet.
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Are you sure that they're just not a bit to long, are there land marks on the bullets after you close the bolt on them?
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I have a 1968 Remington 700 BDL. 7mm mag.
Hates Winchester brass, seems rim is a bit too thick, almost had to hammer bolt closed if loaded from magazine or dropped in chamber. Place cartridge in bolt then close, works perfect.
I load only Federal and Remington brass, no issue at all. Once fired neck sized brass works like silk.
Oh , OP, RCBS collet puller is you friend, you will wake the neighbors up with a hammer type and on top of that you will cringe every time you strike a blow.
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Butchdog3: 33165337512603/comments/33165338245531
I have a 1968 Remington 700 BDL. 7mm mag.
Hates Winchester brass, seems rim is a bit too thick, almost had to hammer bolt closed if loaded from magazine or dropped in chamber. Place cartridge in bolt then close, works perfect.
I load only Federal and Remington brass, no issue at all. Once fired neck sized brass works like silk.
Oh , OP, RCBS collet puller is you friend, you will wake the neighbors up with a hammer type and on top of that you will cringe every time you strike a blow.
I get so pissed off at the inconsistency of rim thickness. Have several revolvers that will not allow closing of the cylinder or rotation in a single action due to rim thickness. Have to identify on boxes of ammo which pistol will or will not work in.
Bet there are some of you who couldn't get a case in the shell holder a time or two.
Bolt guns can be finnicky with thick case rims because of the space between extractor & bolt face.
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Cheap option is the 'impact' pullers. I have one that came from Midway decades ago and is still working. One bit of advice: use a block of hardwood for the puller to hit. Beating them against concrete is not good and soft (pine) isn't hard enough. I use a chunk of walnut slab that's about 4"x 8" x 24" long stood on end.
For 'big jobs', I use a Hornady collet puller and it certainly works good but too pricy for 100-200 shells.
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Make a puller out of a piece of water pipe with one end capped off. Cut a washer to fit the extractor groove. Put some buffer wadding in the bottom of the pipe to cushion the bullet. Insert case with washer attached. Secure case in pipe with duct tape. Use a pair of vice grips to make a handle on the pipe. Smack smartly on a block of wood. With light bullets you may need to smack more than once. I invented this in 1960 when I had a bunch of black powder 45-70 duds. Ed
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Have you taken a Sharpie to one of the sticky shells so you can get an idea where it's binding?
Safety note; since you're working with live ammo pull the firing pin out of the bolt (if possible) so as to avoid poking holes in things that are not supposed to have holes in them.
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A collett puller is the best way to avoid damaging bullets. I'd send you mine to borrow, but I don't have any .270 colletts.
With my impact puller (which I use only for one or two rounds - more than that is drudgery) I replace the spring fingers with the shellholder for that round. Fits perfectly, is quicker to use, and grips better.
I have been known to just run one bad loaded round up through the top of the press (no die installed), grip the bullet with slip-joint pliers and lower the ram. Hold the pliers vertically, so the jaws wedge into the press hole like a collett. POP! But this does scar up the bullet, and you can even bugger up the topmost thread in the press a bit. If that happens, run a die up from below to chase that thread.
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tried that with a few rocky, I have a piece of rubber/silicone I got years ago for opening tight lids on jars I put it over the bullet and clamped vice grips on the bullet then lowed the press, got a few out but the tight ones the rubber pad just slipped off. I have an old pair of vice grips in the garage somewhere with a circular jaw, I think these would work if I can find them. I am almost to the point of just buying him two boxes of ammo and calling it even...
I only have 47 shells I need to fix/resize and reload, if I can get half out I may just buy a box of factory ammo and call it even sometimes it doesn't pay to be a nice guy.....
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Mobuck: 33165337512603/comments/33165354365723
Cheap option is the 'impact' pullers. I have one that came from Midway decades ago and is still working. One bit of advice: use a block of hardwood for the puller to hit. Beating them against concrete is not good and soft (pine) isn't hard enough. I use a chunk of walnut slab that's about 4"x 8" x 24" long stood on end.
For 'big jobs', I use a Hornady collet puller and it certainly works good but too pricy for 100-200 shells.
If you use an impact puller ,put a small piece of foam rubber in the bottom, where the bullet will land... Keeps the pulled bullet point from deforming...
JIM...............
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JIM STARK: 33165337512603/comments/33165340064027
https://forums.gunbroker.com/discussion/comment/11423480#Comment_11423480
If you use an impact puller ,put a small piece of foam rubber in the bottom, where the bullet will land... Keeps the pulled bullet point from deforming...
JIM...............
Foam ear plugs work great..
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Get the hammer type puller. They are pretty much universal and are handy to have around. They're a bit more work than the collet type and more time consuming but so what. I was going to suggest I send you my collet puller if you'd agree to send it back but, by the time you pay shipping both ways, you could own a hammer puller.
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A collet puller is the kind of thing you find at gun shows cheaper than new. It's where I found mine. If I'm pulling 10 or more, I use the collet puller. Collets aren't that expensive. Fewer than 10 I'll use the hammer type. I've learned to be gentle tightening the collet. I want to reclaim as much as I can. Primers too. When I punch the primers I do it a arms length with my face turned away from me press. I've never had one go off. If the bullets seem really tight, it might help to use a seater die to push them down just enough to break friction but then you run the risk of pushing the bullet too deep for the collet to grip.
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For my pliers trick, you hold the pliers vertically - up and down. Not flat. You don't have to squeeze them at all because lowering them into the press's die hole compresses them exactly like a collett.
Do note that if the bullets are really stuck, you may deform the top thread in the press. Then you risk cross-threading dies. To fix that, screw a die in from below so the die can push the press thread back into place.
I wouldn't do this a lot. It's more of an emergency trick.
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I use both the RCBS collet pullers and the Hornady Kinetic bullet puller.
The main reason I have a Hornady Kinetic puller is it has a lifetime warranty and I've used the warranty for FREE replacement puller and parts. Hornady sent me bunch of the shell holders as spares, no charge and replaced two of the puller assemblies due to broken handles.
Also RCBS is lifetime warranty.
When using the Kinetic puller I drop in one or two foam type ear plugs to keep from damaging the tips on bullets. I get rough with mine even use it on concrete but a oak board is better. (as stated above) They will eventually break so buy one that has lifetime no hassell warranty when buying.
The main reason I use the kinetic type instead of the RCBS collet is I can re-use non damaged bullets
.I've experimented on paper with shooting collet pulled bullets in very accurate rifles and seen no difference in accuracy BUT I just cannot be at ease knowing the bullets are slightly deformed.
I sometimes use a bullet seater die and slightly push the bullet little deeper into the case so as to free up the really tight stubborn ones for the kinetic puller.
You might consider using the pliers method on some of the really hard chambering ones, then
See if the hull chambers ok without the bullet, if it's still tight start slightly adjusting the full length die little at a time to get a chamber then go with two or 3 more as a test, then install a bullet without powder and see if it still chambers ok. You might even want to check the neck diameter of the brass with and without a bullet so as to make sure the brass necks are not too thick when a bullet is installed, BEFORE BUYING A BULLET PULLER. If the gun has a tight chamber and a full length sizing die does not get them to chamber good no need in a bullet puller. Also check the OEA of the brass case after pulling the bullet and sizing to see if they need trimmed. Be careful because you have live primers in those cases and you will have to remove the primer pin from the die. Punching out live primers is also not a good thing. Wear safety glasses and keep face back. Witnessing a primer go off is not a good thing.
I own couple of tight chambered rifles and the brass has to be purposely full length oversized for those rifles. They were purposely tight chambered so the brass would last longer with very hot maximum loads.
Some people also do not realize that a Full Length re-sizing die can be tightened down to OVERSIZE the brass and the shoulder is pushed back too far for a normal in spec chamber and firing this type brass will sometimes cause the primer to set back on firing and the firing pin may even puncture the primer.
Stay safe.
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well just got done, a golfing buddy of mine let me borrow his hammer. with the exception of some sore fingers from griping the handle got them all done in around an hour. not sure who loaded them but the charges went from 56.4 all the way up to 60.2 I doubt if more than 2-3 had the same weight. will size them and load em up sunday, its supposed to be close to 70 tommorow and I ain't gonna sit in the basement loading with weather like that in december....!!!!!
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"Some people also do not realize that a Full Length re-sizing die can be tightened down to OVERSIZE the brass and the shoulder is pushed back too far for a normal in spec chamber"
REALLY??
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You got done while I was typing.
Good luck to Ya and stay safe.
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hillbille: 33165337512603/comments/33165362328859
well just got done, a golfing buddy of mine let me borrow his hammer. with the exception of some sore fingers from griping the handle got them all done in around an hour. not sure who loaded them but the charges went from 56.4 all the way up to 60.2 I doubt if more than 2-3 had the same weight. will size them and load em up sunday, its supposed to be close to 70 tommorow and I ain't gonna sit in the basement loading with weather like that in december....!!!!!
(And) THAT is why you never shoot someone else's re-loads.
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"Be careful because you have live primers in those cases and you will have to remove the primer pin from the die. Punching out live primers is also not a good thing. Wear safety glasses and keep face back. Witnessing a primer go off is not a good thing."
This is always good advice BUT. After having 'processed' several hundred factory reject rounds containing reversed primers, I've not had a single primer POP. Even though the primers were significantly dented by the deprimer pin, none popped. Slow and steady does the trick.
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@...: 33165337512603/comments/33165325594907
https://forums.gunbroker.com/discussion/comment/11423684#Comment_11423684
(And) THAT is why you never shoot someone else's re-loads.
(And) THAT is why you never shoot someone else's re-loads.
I've been asked to reload for others. I tell them I only reload for myself and I recommend they either buy factory ammo or learn how to reload for themselves.
AND I do not reload for anyone other than myself and my family hunting partners.
Before i got into reloading for myself I tried another persons reloads, both centerfire and shotgun. This is just one of several reasons why I reload for myself.
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I have also been amazed and frightened by the "quality" of other people's reloads. I picked up a cookie tin of 30 Herrett reloads at a gun show once. About 100 of them, mostly for the brass. But I decided to shoot a few. One went "pop" and one went "KABOOM" and that was the end of any desire to shoot more of them. Pulled all the bullets and found different kinds of powder, different amounts of like powder, different bullets, different seating depths, different sizing - just about anything different you can imagine.
Tossed all the powder, carefully deprimed, and ended up reforming, trimming and resizing them all. Which just about equaled what I would have done starting with .30-30 brass in the first place. Did get to reuse the bullets in the Herrett or other .30-cal rounds.
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just finished up had 48 to resize, did like oakie said resized a couple tight ones and they cycled fine, then loaded bullet in empty brass and still cycled fine. So resized the lot with full size die, and then went ahead and loaded em, trying every 5-6 one to make sure it still cycled fine.I think lit was a shoulder/neck issue. I used all my powder but about couple hundred grains, might of had enough to load half a dozen more at most. Just called the fellow to let him know he could come pick them up whenever he made it to my side of town, said he would be here tomorrow then asked me what he owed me!!!! I told him nothing but if he wanted to pick me up a pound of powder it would be fine with me, or what ever he felt was fair, I am just glad to be done with it.......
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Don't get caught doing anything remotely like selling reloads. Not these days.
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Rocky Raab: 33165337512603/comments/33165376956827
Don't get caught doing anything remotely like selling reloads. Not these days.
thats why I hate to load for anyone else, I had cousins allways asking me to, I told them they could come and use my loader and equipment and I would watch/help but don't feel comfortable doing it for them. And thats what I am going to tell this fellow tomorrow, I agreed to help him on this bunch but I won't reload anymore for him, thats why I told him he didn't owe me any money, I don't want it to come back on me.....
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I don't shoot anyone else's reloads except 2 people whom I taught to reload . I will shoot theirs. Anyone else who wants me to reload for them gets a standard response .You can use my gear ,buy the components and I will mentor and teach you how. Get very few
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