ASM Walker Timing ---Problems cocking
Need and answer or point me to old topic please...
Usually Remmy man but got a deal on ASM Walker and now workin it over..
I have thoroughly cleaned and it assembles perfect and gun is tight. Now comes descrption of problem. All aware of wedge pin to far in etc. but the cylinder (when pin is in a very visual proper location) locks up. If I back it out to where paw is about flush it works much better but not perfect or if I rotate cylinder some it seems to release the catch on the frame channel that locks up the cylinder and then I can cock it. other wise it just locks the cylinder and i hav e to move barrel out again..
It seems to be more internal related than the barrel wedging too tight to cylinder though....but I'm open for absolute pointers please....I always read of timing issues but I've never really experienced them with a dozen or so other bp revs (fortunate I guess) but I need a couple of you pros to kick in or like I said...point me to a topic already covering this....thanx bp50cal
Usually Remmy man but got a deal on ASM Walker and now workin it over..
I have thoroughly cleaned and it assembles perfect and gun is tight. Now comes descrption of problem. All aware of wedge pin to far in etc. but the cylinder (when pin is in a very visual proper location) locks up. If I back it out to where paw is about flush it works much better but not perfect or if I rotate cylinder some it seems to release the catch on the frame channel that locks up the cylinder and then I can cock it. other wise it just locks the cylinder and i hav e to move barrel out again..
It seems to be more internal related than the barrel wedging too tight to cylinder though....but I'm open for absolute pointers please....I always read of timing issues but I've never really experienced them with a dozen or so other bp revs (fortunate I guess) but I need a couple of you pros to kick in or like I said...point me to a topic already covering this....thanx bp50cal
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It sounds like maybe the bolt isn't releasing properly . Make sure you have the internals installed correctly. Here is a schematic/parts list:
http://www.bghi.us/index.php?x=1860_dwg0 -
Is this a new/unfired gun, or one that has had a lot of use?
It sounds like the hand is trying to rotate the cylinder before the bolt drops. For a new/unused gun, shortening the hand (filing the flat on the tip of the hand) will correct early rotating, and allow the bolt to drop before the hand starts pushing on the ratchet.
If this is an old/well used gun, the bolt legs or cam on the hammer could be worn causing the bolt to drop late. Replacing the bolt and/or hammer might be required to fix this problem. Filing the hand could correct it also; but it depends on wheter you will get full rotation with a shorter hand.0 -
Welcome to the world of Italian medium quality black powder revolvers. I think you will have to closely examine each moving function, one-by-one, to find the problem. When you find it, it may be repairable or may require a new part. The problem could be any one or a combination of: part fit, tolerences, bad part, poor workmanship or poor internal machining. Good luck. 0 -
I have an Italian Walker that started jamming the cylinder the second time I loaded it. Found that the HAND had a sharp corner that was digging into the frame as it rose, an locking up. IF that is what is happening with your revolver, you should be able to see where it's digging into the slot in the frame.
A bit of VERY light filing on the corners of the hand, and it now works fine. But ONLY the corners: you DON'T want to blunt the edge that goes into the pawls on the cylinder.0 -
Thanx for Ya'lls insight. Did a little filing and tinkering and found ruff metal chip attached where paw comes out....took it out (lightly filed) and works fine.....makin' smoke bp50cal 0
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